Drivers window jumps out of channel

[84 C20]

Background: This 1984 truck originally had crank windows and I changed them over to power two years ago. Periodically, the window would stop part way up (or down, depending on your world outlook) but that was because of my wiring prowess. I've replaced the felt and that's been a bit of a problem because I didn't get it completely seated so the window was slow going up. Sometimes it would jump out the channel but I ascribed it to me having put the parts together poorly.

Skip ahead to the past few days: I've decided I'm tired of playing the "window lottery" so I've replaced the mechanism and started soldering the electrical connections. I've also taken the time to properly seat the channel felt so the window can go up without undue friction. But now the window won't stay in the front channel when it lowers almost all the way. Once I get it back on track, it raises like it's in butter. Really, it's a thing of beauty; makes a nice solid "klunk" when it seats home all the way up. So I put the interior door panel back on, lower the window and it jumps out again. it's always the front edge that jumps and it's always to the inside.

Looking at the mechanism, it doesn't seem like the arm that is in front really follows the window channel very closely. Because of this (in my mind) of course it pulls the window out of the channel. Is it normal to "customize" the mechanism by bending the arms to more closely follow the channel?

 

[Snoots]

You're gonna hate this.

Pull off the inner door panel.
You'll need to re-adjust the rear window guide.
The window will have to be raised and lowered a lot so be careful where you put your hands.
I think likely that the rear track is too far away from the glass at the base.
Whatever you do DO NOT try to bend the guide.

All this assumes that the front guide is in the proper place and that the lower stop has the rubber bumper on it.
Another thing, since you said you went from crank to power, most power window glass is thinner than crank type window glass. So that's something you have to compensate for. I think you've already done that well except for the adjustment.

I agree it's a PITA because I've done it. Patience is the key. You're not far from success.

 

[bucket]

Agreed, the rear guide needs adjusted. Or the lower mount has broken off.

The thick/thin glass was a year thing, '81 and newer got thin glass. The power window option was far more common in the 80's though, which had thin glass.

 

[84 C20]

i'll order a new bumper when I reorder the switch and pigtail connector. both of which are in pieces strewn about the immediate area around the truck.

Never would have gone after the rear guide....thanks!!

 

[84 C20]

I wanted to say 'Thanks' to everyone that helped get me on the right path. Last night I made the time to look at the rear channel and found that the mounting point has weakened and started to split. I fixed it temporarily with a washer and now the window goes down and stays in the channel.
Of course, now that the drivers side window is working the passenger window won't respond to the new switch. I didn't check the connections before I put the interior panel back on so it's definitely something I did or didn't do. But, a big thanks to yous guys for helping!

 

[Snoots]

I didn't check the connections before I put the interior panel back

That's where I would start.

 

[SquareRoot]

Reviving this thread as I'm having a similar issue. In adjusting the rear guide, are you referring to #9 in the diagram? It looks like the top is fixed but the bottom may provide forward/rearward adjustment via the slotted tab?