Do I need to upgrade my booster for 14 bolt swap?

[Mattchu60]

I have been rebuilding my 14 bolt and 10 bolt axles to get ready to swap them into the truck for my k20 conversion. These axles have the 13" HD drums on the rears and the large rotors on the front. Somone mentioned I should check and see if my K10 booster/master cylinder will handle these.

From all the writeups I find, no one seems to be changing these out. I checked and the 1987 V20 came with a different booster/master cylinder than my V10 did.

I use the truck for hauling stuff, which is why I wanted to upgrade to heavy axles. Should i consider changing my booster out? Also, it looks like one of these may use Hydroboost and one may now - is that an issue?

 

[Tyger13us]

I have been rebuilding my 14 bolt and 10 bolt axles to get ready to swap them into the truck for my k20 conversion. These axles have the 13" HD drums on the rears and the large rotors on the front. Somone mentioned I should check and see if my K10 booster/master cylinder will handle these.

From all the writeups I find, no one seems to be changing these out. I checked and the 1987 V20 came with a different booster/master cylinder than my V10 did.

I use the truck for hauling stuff, which is why I wanted to upgrade to heavy axles. Should i consider changing my booster out? Also, it looks like one of these may use Hydroboost and one may now - is that an issue?

no,, dont matter,, but i like the hydroboost my self......

 

[chengny]

Hydroboost brakes are basically specified for vehicles with engines that, for various reasons, do not always develop sufficient manifold vacuum to operate a vacuum assist booster.

That includes diesels, turbo/super charged engines and heavy duty (i.e. 1 ton +) trucks.

Size and configuration of the rear axle (or brake size) really has no bearing on whether or hydroboost is required.

As long as your engine develops good intake manifold vacuum - and your brakes have always worked well with the vacuum booster - let it be.

In addition to the time and cost involved in a vacuum to hydro system change over, be advised that the hydro system runs off the power steering system.

It is not a huge factor but this can cause issues. If everything is not perfect, there are times (e.g. applying the brakes and turning the wheels) when both the braking and steering systems struggle to operate. The power steering pump squeals and the brakes pulsate.

Also consider the additional piping and hoses required for hydroboost brakes.

 

[MrMarty51]

Never install a hydro boost specific master cylinder to a Vac booster and vicee versee.

 

[bucket]

I converted my K10 Burb to K20 several years ago, I kept the stock master and booster. The rear is from a 1-ton with the giant rear drums and the brakes operate great, better than a stock K20 actually. Because of the smaller MC, the pedal is lighter and easier to modulate. The only downfall is the pedal height is very sensitive to rear brake adjustment, so you have to keep the rear brakes adjusted. But really, that should be done on any truck.

 

[Mattchu60]

Thanks to everyone for all the responses. Sounds like I should be alright sticking with my current setup. I believe there is a larger MC that is non-hydroboost as well (Hydro must have been an option?). If I have any issues, would I just be able to swap over the MC or would I need everything - booster and MC?