Cutting Front Coils

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Stepperado

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When cutting a coil from your front springs, are most of you guys "setting" the spring so it sits flat in the spring pocket? I happened to see a video where after the guy cut the springs he used a torch to heat a section of the spring so he could bend it and it would end up with more contact area sitting in the spring pocket. He was basically mimicking the factory spring shape

Honestly I thought people were just cutting the coil and that was the end of the story. But after seeing the video I'm curious as to how many people are doing this.

So let's hear it...................
 

J Knight

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I didn't do that to mine, neither have anyone I know done it. I don't think its necessary.
 

Swims350

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you do not ever want to heat a spring. When you do it's ruined basically.
 

PrairieDrifter

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I'm pretty sure it's not a very good idea to cut your springs?
 

Skweegle89

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We had a bunch of guys that were cutting coils off in auto tech. They just marked them and cut em.


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Swims350

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only reason ppl say not to cut them is because the ride gets stiffer, only if you cut too much.

ever watch any car shows on tv like overhaulin? even chip fosse cuts coils.
 

350runner

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Cut too much and it will ride like a brick/ 4x4 with t bat cranked to the max.

Sent from the dust in front of you!
 
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J Knight

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Cutting coils is done all the time, it works great. The key is knowing how much to cut.
 

350runner

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I believe there is a ratio that one could use like half inch cut equals x amount of drop.

Sent from the dust in front of you!
 

Stepperado

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OK guys, that's pretty much what I expected to hear and I appreciate you getting back to me so quick. I've cut springs on a couple different cars and never did the torch thing to bend the bottom of the spring.

Thanks again,
Stepperado
 

brandon6469

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We cut exactly one coil off the bottom and it fit right back into the control arm, no issues.

Gotta get it aligned though!
 

scottybaccus

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I own and operate a chassis and suspension shop. This has been my focus for nearly 20 years in the custom car and truck business. Here is the simplest summary I can offer, and there are volumes more to be sure.

1. Springs are heat treated to set the hardness of the metal. Whether coils, or leafs, heat destroys them. NEVER use a torch anywhere near them. Anyone suggesting this is more than foolish. They are dangerous.

2. Spring rate (stiffness) is determined by number of coils and size of wire they are made from. If you remove wire by cutting a coil, the spring will be stiffer, just as if you shorten a beam it will flex less. If you cut a coil, the increased spring rate will result in a former ride. Cut another, and it will be firmer, still. At some point, it will be too stiff to be comfortable, and can impede proper suspension function. "Too stiff" is a matter of design purpose. A daily driver will be softer than a pro-touring ride.

3. Cutting a coil will lower ride height as if the suspension were compressed by added weight. If over done, steering geometry and suspension geometry are affected in some very bad ways. Bump steer and camber behavior can lead to adverse behavior and unsafe road manners. For this reason, dropped spindles should always be the first choice (suspension and steering are unaffected). IF an increase in spring rate is desired, minor cutting of the coils can be used to fine tune ride height and ride stiffness. One coil generally equals two inches. This should be the most removed. For all the same reasons, dropped springs and dropped control arms should be avoided.

If cutting a coil spring, the best method is a band saw, either stationary or handheld. A SawzAll is too jumpy for most. To accurately match a pair, use the tail removed from one spring to mark the cut on the second.
If an abrasive wheel is the only means available to cut a spring, place it in a bucket of water, with only enough above the water to safely cut the spring. This will keep the heat from moving down the coil.

Remember, 30 year old springs will be a shadow of their former selves. New coils are very affordable from Rock Auto, and others. Keep in mind that they will settle a half inch or more over a few weeks.

Lastly, ride height and drop measurements are always taken by measuring from the fender lip, to the center of nthe spindle, so that tire size and air pressure are not a factor.
 

J Knight

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I have been lowering these trucks since the 80's and I agree 100% with this advise. In my early years I have done and seen it done the wrong way as well as the results of doing it the wrong way. Doing it right is not that expensive so dont cut corners on this.

I own and operate a chassis and suspension shop. This has been my focus for nearly 20 years in the custom car and truck business. Here is the simplest summary I can offer, and there are volumes more to be sure.

1. Springs are heat treated to set the hardness of the metal. Whether coils, or leafs, heat destroys them. NEVER use a torch anywhere near them. Anyone suggesting this is more than foolish. They are dangerous.

2. Spring rate (stiffness) is determined by number of coils and size of wire they are made from. If you remove wire by cutting a coil, the spring will be stiffer, just as if you shorten a beam it will flex less. If you cut a coil, the increased spring rate will result in a former ride. Cut another, and it will be firmer, still. At some point, it will be too stiff to be comfortable, and can impede proper suspension function. "Too stiff" is a matter of design purpose. A daily driver will be softer than a pro-touring ride.

3. Cutting a coil will lower ride height as if the suspension were compressed by added weight. If over done, steering geometry and suspension geometry are affected in some very bad ways. Bump steer and camber behavior can lead to adverse behavior and unsafe road manners. For this reason, dropped spindles should always be the first choice (suspension and steering are unaffected). IF an increase in spring rate is desired, minor cutting of the coils can be used to fine tune ride height and ride stiffness. One coil generally equals two inches. This should be the most removed. For all the same reasons, dropped springs and dropped control arms should be avoided.

If cutting a coil spring, the best method is a band saw, either stationary or handheld. A SawzAll is too jumpy for most. To accurately match a pair, use the tail removed from one spring to mark the cut on the second.
If an abrasive wheel is the only means available to cut a spring, place it in a bucket of water, with only enough above the water to safely cut the spring. This will keep the heat from moving down the coil.

Remember, 30 year old springs will be a shadow of their former selves. New coils are very affordable from Rock Auto, and others. Keep in mind that they will settle a half inch or more over a few weeks.

Lastly, ride height and drop measurements are always taken by measuring from the fender lip, to the center of nthe spindle, so that tire size and air pressure are not a factor.
 
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Lastwords

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A fiend of mine lowered hus car with heat. Springs Broke two days later. And I mean all four of them. I've cut the top coil off my 2500 and a regal and have not had any problems. Just make sure the spring fits back into the slot.
 

Rusty Nail

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Yep. Cut-off wheel in a 5 gallon bucket full of water. Heat will ruin a spring!
1 coil = 2 inches. That's all.
 

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