Cowl Stuff

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sealacamp

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Jan 28, 2015
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Location
Fairburn GA
First Name
Paul
Truck Year
81, 78
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
I'm still plugging away at my 81 C10. Finally making a bit of progress. What's complete, engine, transmission, rear axles/differential/bearings, front wheel bearings, steering gear, steering components, radiator, carb, water pump, fuel pump, alternator, gauge circuit board, and shocks.

So I'm ready to tackle the windshield, rear window, cowl, front fenders, inner fenders, and hood. I've got rust down the passenger side due to a long term window leak but I'm thinking that part of the cowl is not in great shape too. I've figured out how it's supposed to drain but now sure how to get in there and get a good look at it and then fix what ever might be wrong with it. Any suggestions? So many layers of sheet metal and I don't want to cut it all apart, if I don't have to.

Sealacamp
 

chengny

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Location
NH
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Jerry
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K3500
Engine Size
350/5.7
The horizontal portion of the fresh air inlet plenum (directly below the air inlet grille and the plastic inlet screen) is essentially wide open for inspection - when the grille and screen are off. I think you're going to be okay as far as corrosion in the down plenums - and the cross plenum as well. I don't recall ever seen any significant rust inside the plenums. They are designed to flow water away from the windshield and one would have to assume that the inner walls are coated appropriately to handle that service. Plus, they lead a sheltered life - never seeing the UV rays from the sun, always protected from dirt, grime and stuff like car wash brushes. The paint usually looks like right out of the factory - like the under side of a sedan's trunk lid.

But, you're right, it is prudent to thoroughly inspect any steel that is adjacent to badly corroded areas.

The upper/horizontal section is easy enough to inspect; just pull the grill and screen. When they are out of the way, you can stand on each side of the truck - at about the door hinges and sight right down the middle of the plenum. A little shift to the left/right provides a good view of the front and rear walls. This is best done at night with a flashlight - or at least not on a sunny day. Intense sunlight will cause your pupils to restrict, making it difficult to see into dark areas.

The vertical sections each have to be treated differently:

It's possible to do an inspection of nearly the entire height of the RH vertical section. On the other hand, the left hand side is less than accessible - and if the truck is equipped with factory A/C it's even worse.

The top of the RH plenum can be viewed by removal of the heater blower/evap coil casing:

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You will be able to almost stick your head into it and look around. It's not that open, but you will find it easy to evaluate the back and both side walls (inner and outer).

Even if you only remove the blower itself, you can still get a good idea of the condition of the upper portion of the chamber:

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With the inspection of the upper half completed, move into the cab to inspect mid to lower sections. Pull the fresh air inlet damper (or recirc damper if A/C equipped). With that damper and it's mounting frame out of the way, you'll have a clear view all the way back up to the fan inlet, the mid-portion and most of the lower reaches:

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The use of an inspection mirror is helpful - but not necessary. While you have the vertical plenum open, now is a great opportunity to reach down - as close to the plenum floor as you can get - and check for the presence of mice. They seem to love these areas (along with the cab corners) and will choose them over any other spaces - as far as where they want to build their communities. Run a hose down the plenum as well. If you can run water (down & out) endlessly, consider the plenum unblocked. If the volume of water coming from the hose can't run free - and causes a rising level in the plenum, the drain openings at the bottom should be considered it to be obstructed. Use a stick, compressed air blown up from the bottom or just keep running the water (and poking around with a stick) until the drain is clear.

Unfortunately, all the above only holds true for the RH plenum. The views allowed of the LH plenum interior are limited to the fresh air vent damper opening – and that’s only if you have a base (non -A/C) system.

If you have factory A/C, you don’t even get that. Since A/C systems function most efficiently when sealed off from the entry of outside air, there is no damper in the kickpanel. Removing the entire panel isn’t an option either. That’s because there is no opening in the steel cab wall behind it.

Basically, the only view down the LH plenum - on A/C equipped trucks, is through the very limited opening provided for the hood hinge recess:

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But, since the LH side is even more well protected than the RH side, you should feel confident about the condition of the left side. If the steel in the right chamber appears to have maintained it's coatings and shows no signs of excessive corrosion - the left side is probably even better.
 
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sealacamp

Junior Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2015
Posts
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Location
Fairburn GA
First Name
Paul
Truck Year
81, 78
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
Thanks for the great photos and detailed reply Chengny! That was very helpful. I've looked a quite a few photos of that area, on both sides, from people who were rebuilding them and the firewall area, so I think I finally have a good idea of how that entire contraption works and is configured.

My plan at this time is to put in a vintage air system so I will have to demo the entire factory AC to do that, this will clear everything out of the way, the windshield and gasket have to go as well. I have a long metal probe type tube for my shop vac, I will be getting a borescope inspection camera, and found some stuff yesterday called internal frame coating from the eastwood company. It's hard to know how far I will have to go with this until I tear it all apart this coming spring but I think I know what to do once I get there.

There is very little information about this cowl area or how it's supposed to function, or what to do with it when there is a failure due to rust. Another issue I noted while looking at other folks projects is the seam seal on the engine side of the cowl area. Many I looked at had a separation or crack in that seam seal. Not quite sure how that got installed and if it's dirty looks like it will be a bear to clean and reseal. Never the less once I get in there I'll find a way to get it done, hopefully with out cutting it all apart.

Thanks again for the great info!!

Sealacamp
 

sealacamp

Junior Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2015
Posts
22
Reaction score
0
Location
Fairburn GA
First Name
Paul
Truck Year
81, 78
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
I forgot to mention that the right hand side, where the vent is, yes I have factory AC, is where the rust is. But I think that was due to the windshield leak and it came down between the dash and the firewall area, but once again, until I open it all up it's hard to tell. I didn't see any obvious issues on the left hand side and that side of the windshield isn't leaking either, as far as I can tell.
 

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