Can't find new rear hubs for '74

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Dougnsalem

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I'm not sure what all he tried first. I just know he ended up beating on them.

What flange are you referring to? I am trying to come up with other possibilities in case the hubs don't solve the problem. It has to be something that would make the wheel rotate out of whack. All I can think of is the axle housing, but it also seems like it would be difficult to bend that by beating on the hub.
Where the drum meets the hub. I'm just repeating what everyone else has said, so I'll go sit back down and be quiet.... Lol
 

Erik

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Gotcha. Yeah, that’s the part he thinks he deformed. I’ll post an update once we try the hubs.
 

Snoots

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It almost...I say almost, sounds as though the axle shaft is bent.
 

Erik

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You mean the floating shaft inside the housing? I’m having a hard time wrapping my head around what was most likely bent by him beating on the hub. I suppose it could be the shaft. I am a newbie as y’all can tell.
 

Snoots

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You mean the floating shaft inside the housing? I’m having a hard time wrapping my head around what was most likely bent by him beating on the hub. I suppose it could be the shaft. I am a newbie as y’all can tell.

Being a Newbie ain't got nuttin' to do wid it.
A lot of us are scratching our heads trying to help out here. But we will reign supreme and solve this! Sooner or later. Sooner we hope.
 

HotRodPC

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I don't think I can lean toward it being an axle shaft on a full float axle. Semi Float maybe but not a full float. The full float axle just connects the hub to the carrier to propel the hub. Nothing whatsoever is riding on the full floating axle. If the full float axle was bent it won't seal good to the hub and would be quite obvious.
 

Rusty Nail

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Snowball fights in hell the day I allow ANYONE to beat on my truck, much less PAY then to.
100% of any "smoldering fury" would lie squarely on MY back.
******* moron is too god damned stupid to know how to fix a 40 year old truck and beats on it with a hammer...

Where is Darwin when ya need him? I'm not sure which of you two oughta get it first.

How's all that savin money workin out for ya?
 

Big Chip

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Snowball fights in hell the day I allow ANYONE to beat on my truck, much less PAY then to.
100% of any "smoldering fury" would lie squarely on MY back.
******* moron is too god damned stupid to know how to fix a 40 year old truck and beats on it with a hammer...

Where is Darwin when ya need him? I'm not sure which of you two oughta get it first.

How's all that savin money workin out for ya?
I agree with all of that. Of course it's done now so fixing it is the only option. I would hope the mechanic cleans those hubs before he puts them on because he'd be digging them out of his ass if it were me. I would have pressed the issue on the mechanic buying the hubs too. I just can't see paying for his mistake.

Some guys just have no finesse so maybe for just this one truck the OP should find another guy.
 

malibuman402

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how old are the brake shoes, old brake shoes can cause chatter when applied. even if they look good doesn't mean they are.
 

84c10Tony

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Step 1) Verify problem, remove drums, put an indicator on hubs and turn them to check if they have run out or are bent etc.

You mention squeaky brakes, has it been since you purchased the truck or did it start later? Since there is 90% left, seems likely someone has changed shoes previously.

2) Are the shoes installed correctly like Snoots mentioned?

3) And what Bucket said about mating surface, I have seen this before several times in rust areas, is it just one side or both?

A Very small burr, ridge, piece of dirt or RUST etc. at the center of the hub where the first contact is can make a big difference a foot away. OR rust on the actual lugs and around the Center ring.
Solved it once by thoroughly wire brushing around every lug and center ring to a shine.

4) Did he replace any lugs?, are any broken, bent or binding?, or a different shape (as in a shoulder between the hub and the threads) where the drum meets the hub?

5) Check clearances, flip a drum 180 degrees to check if surfaces mate and lugs pass through drums smoothly.

Heck, even have the (hopefully not cheap Chinese) drums checked for run out, out of round, and casting errors too, new or not.

If the hubs are OK and straight, no run out or wobble, has All the rust been removed from hub?, especially where the lugs pass through the hub? reasonably reiterating.

Has anyone checked the emergency break? in case it was over adjusted, or from adjustments on pedal to cable, cable to frame where is it supported, cable to hub etc. (Squeak part)

6) Check the run out on the actual wheels, tires, and get a good balance job on them too.

Just half a dozen things to consider.

I am not a doctor, nor play one on TV, but would like to know the prognosis of said specific speculative situation surgically speaking sequestering maniacal metallurgy mechanical mess.
Jus' sayin'.
 

83chevyk10

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Like the others, I think it would be pretty hard to tweak the hubs just by beating on them. Maybe screw up the flange where he wacked it. Anything's possible though....

Anyways, recommend that he gets a torch with a rosebud for the future. Heat that drum up, and cool it off with WD a couple times. The hub will fall right out. I haven't had a single one that this hasn't worked on. Including on semi-truck stuff. That beating on crap is just too hard on the body.

@83chevyk10 .... Another good use for a torch.... Lol
You never fail to find a way to torch somethin do ya?:flamingdevil:
 

crazy4offroad

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I had to heat & beat the drums off my 14b ff, and I mean I beat the **** out of them. They were rusted on tighter than dick's hatband. The drums were full of mud and rust, and had been for who knows how many moons. I fully expected them to shatter from the beating and prying they took. Then I beat the studs out of the hubs so I could stake on rotors for disk brakes. None of this hurt the hubs. If you're staying with drums make sure the long shoe is always at the back.
 
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Erik

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To be clear, the beating on the hubs wasn’t mentioned to me until AFTER he discovered the drums weren’t the problem. I didn’t just sit there and watch him do it. And I haven’t paid him anything. He won’t accept anything until the problem is solved and then we’ll come to a reasonable agreement on payment.

As for the age of the shoes, I have no idea. I’ve only had the truck for six months. It hadn’t been driven much in a couple years since the original owner died, so they’re probably pretty old. The squeak started a couple months ago (after me putting a couple thousand miles on it) and the shaking while braking didn’t start until after he changed the drums. Tried two different pairs and they both did it, so he believed the hub was the next likeliest candidate. We’ll know soon, because the salvage hubs are coming Friday.
 

Erik

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I’m getting new studs too. The old ones have seen better days.
 

highdesertrange

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so this guy installed new drums and left the old shoes? he is no mechanic. new shoes should ALWAYS be installed with new drums. in fact with the 14ff I prefer to do a complete brake job, just because it's such a pain in the ass taking the hubs and drums off. also before buying anything I would do run out tests on the drums and hubs. highdesertranger
 

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