Cab repair - Cab corners - rockers - floor pans etc

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82Diesel

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I've always been told that when doing major repairs, such as rocker replacements, it is generally a good idea to add crossbeams (front to rear) inside the cab to prevent flexing. Is this effective or Mandatory? In my case, a few years ago, before this exploded into crackhead prices. I bought a set of NOS GM Rockers from a guy in Canada, and i have (Inner?) Nos cab corners too. Aftermarket outers. Anyway, my cab, unfortunately, is in poor shape. I tried looking for a '81-83 Replacement with a removable 4x4 hump, but could only find '85+ without the wiper cutout, and all of the '85-87s I've seen from the factory had a non-removable hump, even on 4x4s.

Just looking for some advice on this.
 

kkgp81

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What year cab are you working on? If doing the entire floor- yes brace that puppy. The only full floor out there comes with a low hump which you would need to install the high hump. AMD sells both and when installed the hump doesn't look to bad.
 

Strick

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I'll take the striker bolt from the door and the lower hinge and have a jig to bolt in with threaded rod for adjustment. When removing the floors and rockers the cab may have a tendency to spread open. With the threaded rod you can move the cab post if needed.

HS
 

82Diesel

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What year cab are you working on? If doing the entire floor- yes brace that puppy. The only full floor out there comes with a low hump which you would need to install the high hump. AMD sells both and when installed the hump doesn't look to bad.
1982 k10. I got a part time job with my good bodyshop buddy so might have him do it, I have zero experience.
 

82Diesel

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This is the list of what it needs. Before you tell me "find another cab," yeah, well... I tried for 3 years. Pratically nobody is bringing back 81-83 year cabs.

DRs floor pan, DRs rocker Outer & Inner, Pass inner rocker, DRs Floor brace support, DRs/Pass footwell (kick panel) patch, Pass Cab Corner, DRs/Pass Inner Cab corners. (I think), Both Ext Cab Cowls (I have rust-free orig patches), Front cab mount support both sides.

I was quoted by a few shops 2-3 years ago $4500-6k. Reasonable? For what it need? Being a Diesel and having the front sound deadening, it could be worse, along with Seam behind there. I've seen a few with the firewall completely rusted away.
 

Strick

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This is the list of what it needs. Before you tell me "find another cab," yeah, well... I tried for 3 years. Pratically nobody is bringing back 81-83 year cabs.

DRs floor pan, DRs rocker Outer & Inner, Pass inner rocker, DRs Floor brace support, DRs/Pass footwell (kick panel) patch, Pass Cab Corner, DRs/Pass Inner Cab corners. (I think), Both Ext Cab Cowls (I have rust-free orig patches), Front cab mount support both sides.

I was quoted by a few shops 2-3 years ago $4500-6k. Reasonable? For what it need? Being a Diesel and having the front sound deadening, it could be worse, along with Seam behind there. I've seen a few with the firewall completely rusted away.
I've got an '82 K15 Diesel truck that I never could get the title for. I replaced the inner and outer rocker on the passenger side and patched the driver's floor section that had a little rust. I can send you some pics and you can definitely own it cheaper than $4K. DM me if you're interested.

HS
 

82Diesel

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I've got an '82 K15 Diesel truck that I never could get the title for. I replaced the inner and outer rocker on the passenger side and patched the driver's floor section that had a little rust. I can send you some pics and you can definitely own it cheaper than $4K. DM me if you're interested.

HS
Appreciate the offer, but I am not interested in repairing this cab myself. I do not want to screw it up, and then I'm forced to find another one. After recovering from a serious head trauma and losing damn near half my memory, i can barely even read a measuring tape... lol. It's like the Quote: Buy once, cry once. Rather do that honestly.
 

Strick

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Appreciate the offer, but I am not interested in repairing this cab myself. I do not want to screw it up, and then I'm forced to find another one. After recovering from a serious head trauma and losing damn near half my memory, i can barely even read a measuring tape... lol. It's like the Quote: Buy once, cry once. Rather do that honestly.
I've already done the rust repair and painted this cab code 12 Frost White (jammed and interior). I'll sell the cab and it's a diesel prepped factory unit. I understand you not wanting to dive into repairing what you have though as it can be meticulous and time consuming. I saw the estimate of $6K on your repairs and knew that I could sell you this entire cab much cheaper than the repair cost. Unfortunately for you this cab is a good ways from Michigan.

HS
 

82Diesel

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I've already done the rust repair and painted this cab code 12 Frost White (jammed and interior). I'll sell the cab and it's a diesel prepped factory unit. I understand you not wanting to dive into repairing what you have though as it can be meticulous and time consuming. I saw the estimate of $6K on your repairs and knew that I could sell you this entire cab much cheaper than the repair cost. Unfortunately for you this cab is a good ways from Michigan.

HS
Yeah, i was looking as far as Nebraska, and one rust-free cab came up. But it was on a Consignment auction. Working two farms, one my parents and two 580+ acres full-time until October, i have zero time, and it would be impossible to travel. The only ones i can find have cab light holes, 2wd cabs, or a cargo light cut out and i don't want any of that.. 4x4 diesel cabs are so hens teeth scarce now.
 

gilby959798

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What year cab are you working on? If doing the entire floor- yes brace that puppy. The only full floor out there comes with a low hump which you would need to install the high hump. AMD sells both and when installed the hump doesn't look to bad.
You can actually get a full floor 4wd floor now.
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I plan on making my own removable hump since I really like how my 77 has it as well.

As far as bracing it, I braced mine like this but as you can see, I am removing the whole floor pan.
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I added an additional brace after the fact so we could cut that cab corner out to be able to fit the floor. We have not cut out the cab corner yet, we are focusing on fixing the firewall rust while we have better access than trying to work around a new floor pan.
 

kkgp81

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Very nice! That’s a very nice looking floor setup. +1 on the removable bump, had to actually remove the one on my 78 project the other day and got a glimpse of just how useful it was.
 

Grit dog

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1982 k10. I got a part time job with my good bodyshop buddy so might have him do it, I have zero experience.
Which is why a roadtrip and cab swap (if you also have zero mechanical experience then probably also a non starter) make too much sense. You’re a farmer. Has to be a trailer and pickup truck around.
$6k 3 years ago is more now and all you have is a decent cab at the end.
Sorry to come off like this but read the Mabel thread. You’re in the same boat financially.
Unless you’re shitting disposable income, $6-8k for one part of an old truck resto is insane. Hell, fly out here for $150 and drive back a solid body running 4x4 square that will cost you about the same as patching your cab.
If you’re lacking skills, it doesn’t get any easier than Expedia and driving down I90 for 3 days.
Plus the $150 for the Premier AAA towing plan.
 

82Diesel

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You can actually get a full floor 4wd floor now.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach

I plan on making my own removable hump since I really like how my 77 has it as well.

As far as bracing it, I braced mine like this but as you can see, I am removing the whole floor pan.
You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach


I added an additional brace after the fact so we could cut that cab corner out to be able to fit the floor. We have not cut out the cab corner yet, we are focusing on fixing the firewall rust while we have better access than trying to work around a new floor pan.
Sounds like i need a guy like you. I am more of a Fiberglass / Body guy.
 

82Diesel

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Which is why a roadtrip and cab swap (if you also have zero mechanical experience then probably also a non starter) make too much sense. You’re a farmer. Has to be a trailer and pickup truck around.
$6k 3 years ago is more now and all you have is a decent cab at the end.
Sorry to come off like this but read the Mabel thread. You’re in the same boat financially.
Unless you’re shitting disposable income, $6-8k for one part of an old truck resto is insane. Hell, fly out here for $150 and drive back a solid body running 4x4 square that will cost you about the same as patching your cab.
If you’re lacking skills, it doesn’t get any easier than Expedia and driving down I90 for 3 days.
Plus the $150 for the Premier AAA towing plan.
Tons of Mechanical experiance. Nothing in Welding or Fabricating. I'm more of a Body work guy. Fiberglass and sanding.
I have a pickup and trailer. that's no issue. but Running two farms is the part i can't leave. Not until late Oct or Nov. I'm more or less just planning to do the whole Frame and finish drivetrain this winter. Maybe start on the cab and everything else after. I'm not sure yet.
 

Grit dog

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Tons of Mechanical experiance. Nothing in Welding or Fabricating. I'm more of a Body work guy. Fiberglass and sanding.
I have a pickup and trailer. that's no issue. but Running two farms is the part i can't leave. Not until late Oct or Nov. I'm more or less just planning to do the whole Frame and finish drivetrain this winter. Maybe start on the cab and everything else after. I'm not sure yet.
So you have months to peruse for the right truck and bring it home and only need to do the stuff you’re good at. Just throwing out options.
Some call it a labor of love to spend way too much money and far too much time for the end product. For a feeling of accomplishment or something. Or busy work if you’re bored or retired.
You sound like a practical guy with a very busy schedule and a rusty truck that will take a lot of both time and money to get it to the stage of something you could buy ready to roll and still show off your skills fixing it up and makin it pretty.
 

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