Safetyguy
Junior Member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2021
- Posts
- 9
- Reaction score
- 4
- Location
- Central Coast, CA
- First Name
- Greg
- Truck Year
- 1977
- Truck Model
- K20 Scottsdale Camper Special
- Engine Size
- 400
Original owner of my '77 Chevy K20. Just removed the rear cab mount bolts to do a replacement, as the bushings are shot after 49 years! Wasn't planning on doing the fronts. Can just the rear ones be done without loosening the front bolts? Also which brand kit would work best and easiest to replace. Not keen on cutting sleeve down as Energy Suspension says in their instructions. Does any kit use just the OEM sleeves?
Just an FYI as I saw several pics of folks cutting the floor to get at the captive nut. My passenger side bolt came out without too much effort. Driver side was another story. What I did was use a long drill 1/4" bit to drill up through floor at the passenger side, then measured the distance: 36" between and 2-1/2" off back wall. Drilled another hole down and squired a bunch of PB Blaster down inside. Let it soak awhile and then removed that bolt. If it did not work, I planned to drill a 1-1/2" hole with a hole saw and nut it up with a longer bolt and put a 1-1/2" snap cap in it without doing the cut and weld thing. Fortunately the PB Blaster worked! Thanks all.
Just an FYI as I saw several pics of folks cutting the floor to get at the captive nut. My passenger side bolt came out without too much effort. Driver side was another story. What I did was use a long drill 1/4" bit to drill up through floor at the passenger side, then measured the distance: 36" between and 2-1/2" off back wall. Drilled another hole down and squired a bunch of PB Blaster down inside. Let it soak awhile and then removed that bolt. If it did not work, I planned to drill a 1-1/2" hole with a hole saw and nut it up with a longer bolt and put a 1-1/2" snap cap in it without doing the cut and weld thing. Fortunately the PB Blaster worked! Thanks all.
