Schanen51
Junior Member
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2016
- Posts
- 17
- Reaction score
- 0
- Location
- San Jose
- First Name
- Ryan
- Truck Year
- 83
- Truck Model
- K20
- Engine Size
- 6.2 detroit diesel
Howdy Fellas and Fellettes,
Finally got around to installing my cab lights. The previous owner installed a God awful light bar mounted right above the windshield (seen in the first picture). As you can tell, I'm not much of a fan of light bars mounted above windshields. But anywho, I wanted to remove the light bar and didn't know what to cover or otherwise fill the holes with. So I decided to just install cab lights to cover the holes.
I couldn't find a write up of installing cab lights, so I figured I would write this up to help my fellow shade tree car mechanic/electrician/awesome people out. I didn't originally plan on writing this, so I didn't take as many pictures as I should have (sorry)
If you're going about installing cab lights, obviously spacing is paramount. You could evenly space them, or run them the traditional way with the 3 lights in the middle closer together, and the outside lights spread to the side. My outside light holes were pre-determined for me due to the light bar holes. Either way, start with the outside lights. My spacing was 4 inches from the windshield and 3 inches from the top of the door. Measure out where center is, and that will be your middle light. I used 6 inches on either side of the middle light to place lights #2 and #4. Be very careful when drilling through your roof (measure 10x, drill once) and don't push too hard. Once the drill but goes through the outside of the roof, you could potentially dent the inside layer of your roof. Drill a larger hole in the middle to run your wires and two smaller holes to screw the cab lights onto your truck. You will want to Daisychain the wires all the way across your roof. I used a large guage wire to fish the wires from hole-to hole (it's quite the bitch, and will take you some time). Use silicone sealant to ensure waterproof seal to your roof. I ran the wires down my driver side pillar, and into the dash. I ran the hot wire to my parking/tail light wire (brown wire) on my headlight switch--see picture. I ran the ground to a ground wire I had previously ran through the firewall. These are LED cab lights, and I'm running LED parking and tail lights, so the draw should be substantially lower than what the fuse can handle. If you're worried, you can always run an in-line fuse and/or add a relay. Overall, I'm happy with the way it turned out. I know this thread is word-heavy, so if you want other pictures or more information about the details, just let me know. I am by no means an expert, and claim no responsibility for any problems that may arise from an attempted installation.
Finally got around to installing my cab lights. The previous owner installed a God awful light bar mounted right above the windshield (seen in the first picture). As you can tell, I'm not much of a fan of light bars mounted above windshields. But anywho, I wanted to remove the light bar and didn't know what to cover or otherwise fill the holes with. So I decided to just install cab lights to cover the holes.
I couldn't find a write up of installing cab lights, so I figured I would write this up to help my fellow shade tree car mechanic/electrician/awesome people out. I didn't originally plan on writing this, so I didn't take as many pictures as I should have (sorry)
If you're going about installing cab lights, obviously spacing is paramount. You could evenly space them, or run them the traditional way with the 3 lights in the middle closer together, and the outside lights spread to the side. My outside light holes were pre-determined for me due to the light bar holes. Either way, start with the outside lights. My spacing was 4 inches from the windshield and 3 inches from the top of the door. Measure out where center is, and that will be your middle light. I used 6 inches on either side of the middle light to place lights #2 and #4. Be very careful when drilling through your roof (measure 10x, drill once) and don't push too hard. Once the drill but goes through the outside of the roof, you could potentially dent the inside layer of your roof. Drill a larger hole in the middle to run your wires and two smaller holes to screw the cab lights onto your truck. You will want to Daisychain the wires all the way across your roof. I used a large guage wire to fish the wires from hole-to hole (it's quite the bitch, and will take you some time). Use silicone sealant to ensure waterproof seal to your roof. I ran the wires down my driver side pillar, and into the dash. I ran the hot wire to my parking/tail light wire (brown wire) on my headlight switch--see picture. I ran the ground to a ground wire I had previously ran through the firewall. These are LED cab lights, and I'm running LED parking and tail lights, so the draw should be substantially lower than what the fuse can handle. If you're worried, you can always run an in-line fuse and/or add a relay. Overall, I'm happy with the way it turned out. I know this thread is word-heavy, so if you want other pictures or more information about the details, just let me know. I am by no means an expert, and claim no responsibility for any problems that may arise from an attempted installation.
