The 1-ton 14 bolt full floater has narrower spring perches, you would do just as well finding a 3/4 ton 14b ff. Same 10.5" ring gear, same floating hubs, correct wms width, a little lighter weight brakes but I converted mine to rear disk brakes and shaved easily a hundred pounds from the weight of the axle. Your rear driveshaft may be a little short, the pinion housing on the 14 bolt is kind of stubby so it depends on how much lift/slip you have left. Also the u-joints are different, 1/2 tons are 1310 and the smallest size for 1-tons are 1350. You can run a combo joint for the time being until you can have the yoke changed on your driveshaft or source a shaft from a 3/4 ton longbed and have it cut (good luck with that one, I never found one but I didn't look for very long).
The front, you have to make up your mind if you want to dedicate to a Dana 60. They are expensive and depending on what you are putting it under it could get even more expensive. If you're putting it on a lifted truck you may have to go with crossover steering. The kit is pricey, and the steering box has to be changed to a 2WD box, both these things may add another $350 to the expense. The brake lines are also different so they will have to be changed. Alternatively you could go with an 8-lug 10-bolt if you're not running huge tires and lift. The front u-joints are also 1350, you can change the slip shaft end and make it 1350 easy enough but the double cardan joints will still be wimpy 3R joints. You can source a front driveshaft from a mid-2000's Dodge 2500 and it will be set up with the 1350 joints throughout. It will be a little long so a driveline shop can cut it down for you. It has the exact same mounting flange as our trucks that are equipped with an NP205 tcase, and has a higher running angle than ours, in the neighborhood of +30 degrees.
Hope some of this helps.
