Adding weight and insulation to LMC replacement doors

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bradsandersaz

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So I bought new replacement doors for my’75 Blazer. There’s a noticeable difference in the Weight of the door. It sounds “tinny” when you shut the door. I was thinking of adding some weight and insulation to the inside of the door to change the sound of the door when it opens and closes.
Has anyone tried this before?
TIA!
Brad
 

Bennyt

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I spray in Lizard Skin on most panels. It makes them feel more solid and cuts the vibration when sanding. I've used dynamat before and works as well.

When I was early 20's, I worked at HD and on the cheap bathtubs that people would buy for rentals, I would suggest a can of undercoat and seemed to cut sound.
 
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Sad Sack

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:welcome:and an intro with pics please.
 

1STLS1

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I am going to do this before I button up the inside of the doors for good. I planned on using a butyl sheet or 2.

Back in Austin, I drove a 560SL Benz roadster for a couple years and one of the things I enjoyed most about the car was the vault like opening and closing of the doors. They had weighted pads inside that assisted with that feel
 

ali_c20

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Welcome from Austria. Lizard skin, Dynamat, whatever you prefer. Dynamat or similar is easy to use, you don't need a spray gun and it's not messy.
 

TotalyHucked

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I just put a couple pieces of KilMat inside the doors on the skin, as big a piece as I could get through the access hole and I think I did 2. That, coupled with KilMat and Noico closed cell foam on the floor/back cab panel/up the b-pillars and added the '79-81 upper door seals made a HUGE difference in my truck. Much quieter and the doors shut with a nice solid thunk

 

Scott91370

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I did the same with sound deadening inside the doors. Way better.
 

Scruffy49

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If you ever order boxes of pre-fab meal kits, save all of the spun plastic insulation. It makes a great sound/temperature changer between door and door card, or over the headliner. Does not hold moisture, so no rust issues from using it. Also works great stuffed into the speaker pockets in the cab corners to kill the “buzzing” certain frequencies set up.

Building a lowrider on the ultra cheap. For a very, um, let’s say “particular” redhead that wants her 40yo short bed to be as quiet inside as a modern 4 cylinder German/Japanese touring sedan…
 

RiverRat4

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Open question to all about noise dampening. I used up all my butyl pads to cover the floor and back wall of the cab, so now which would be most effective to do next; the doors or the bare metal cab roof? Or should I just do both and be done with it?
 

waterpirate

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I skipped the roof so I do noy know the results. The doors for for sure.
Eric
 

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