tanz45
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2010
- Posts
- 194
- Reaction score
- 13
- Location
- Hopewell, PA
- First Name
- Mike
- Truck Year
- 1981
- Truck Model
- C10
- Engine Size
- 4.1
If already covered, mods delete.
Replacing your manual brakes with power brakes is literally a 1/2 hour job and very straight forward.
My 81 came with manual brakes and were in need of being replaced with power brakes. I called the salvage yard down the street and got the booster and master cylinder from another 81 for $40.
Back at the truck, remove the stock manual master cylinder (brake lines, 2 nuts retaining to firewall, and cotter pin under the dash in the cab.
The 2 bolts that held the manual master cylinder are now the top 2 studs for teh power booster. The two nuts below can be removed as well on the firewall, these are the bottom studs for the brake booster.
Before you install the power booster, you must open up the hole some that attaches to the pedal. (dremel or taper bit)
Manual pedal on left, power on right. Also, the power brake booster has a threaded push rod, break it lose before you install it. I had to lengthen my push rod by 1/4 inch.
Bolt in booster, add a vacuum line to booster, connect brake lines (making sure you bench bled the master), bleed brakes, and reset brake switch position on pedal assembly.
Replacing your manual brakes with power brakes is literally a 1/2 hour job and very straight forward.
My 81 came with manual brakes and were in need of being replaced with power brakes. I called the salvage yard down the street and got the booster and master cylinder from another 81 for $40.
Back at the truck, remove the stock manual master cylinder (brake lines, 2 nuts retaining to firewall, and cotter pin under the dash in the cab.
The 2 bolts that held the manual master cylinder are now the top 2 studs for teh power booster. The two nuts below can be removed as well on the firewall, these are the bottom studs for the brake booster.
Before you install the power booster, you must open up the hole some that attaches to the pedal. (dremel or taper bit)
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Manual pedal on left, power on right. Also, the power brake booster has a threaded push rod, break it lose before you install it. I had to lengthen my push rod by 1/4 inch.
Bolt in booster, add a vacuum line to booster, connect brake lines (making sure you bench bled the master), bleed brakes, and reset brake switch position on pedal assembly.
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