A/C Drain

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Thanks! Only have had the truck a week and I am already learning the joys of owning it

I assume I can buy a part to connect the two lines together ---correct?
 

KilgoreTrout

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A pipe nipple and a couple of hose clamps will do it.
Im not exactly sure what size the lines are, but yeah.
 

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Or what about just using one of the hoses and go from radiator to engine? Or would you suggest just connecting the two existing together as previously mentioned?
 

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Depends on current configuration, either solution works. One hose is should be 5/8 and other 3/4
 

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Been researching more on heater cores and is there a way to determine if core is possibly clogged or has a small leak without taking everything apart? Trying to determine if it can be repaired vs. replaced?

If a small leak I believe there is a fluid that can be poured into system to seal leak. Has anyone had any luck with that?
 

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Anything that that you pour into the system that claims to "fix" a leak will only cause more problems later on as things get plugged up. It's designed as a temporary solution, not an actual repair.
 

75gmck25

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Remove the ends of the two hoses that connect to the heater core under the hood. Then look through the carded Help! or Dorman brand items at the local parts store and you should be able to find a hose connector that is 3/4" or 5/8". I'd use the larger 3/4" and force the smaller hose on, but you might also use the smaller 5/8" and just clamp it a little tighter. Just connect one hose to the other, which will bypass the core to see if that is the source of the leak.

If you find that the leak stops and you want to continue to bypass the core, you have plenty of time until it gets cold again. Changing a heater core on a square body is a little easier than most other vehicles, but still a PIA. There is one last nut (or bolt?) down low in the engine compartment where its hidden by the inner fender, but most others are easy to remove. Its usually easiest to just unbolt the inner fender and let it drop loose to get access to that bolt. Then the other difficult part is getting the inside housing back into place and pressed up against the firewall while you put the nuts on from the engine side.

FYI - I changed the heater core on a 2000 Ford Expedition and the first step was to remove the entire dash, which was one large assembly that ran all the way across the truck. It had all the electrical wiring for the dash attached to it. Of course to get clearance you had to remove the complete console and drop the steering wheel first. It took me almost a day and a half, but was much cheaper than paying the 10 hour labor estimate by the dealer. All that labor to replace a core that was only about $100, IIRC.

Bruce
 

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Should I even bother with flushing the heater core to see if it is clogged first? Or is it best to just bypass and move on from this project for now?
 

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Should I even bother with flushing the heater core to see if it is clogged first? Or is it best to just bypass and move on from this project for now?
If it is already leaking, flushing will likely make it leak more
 

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Checked and both hoses are 5/8"
 

GaK10

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I realize the date In this post but I have a question. Is there a hose/tube that comes off the evap housing? Something that would keep the condensation from traveling back into the cab from outside the evap housing? Say a tube from the bottom the housing keeps fluid flowing/draining down instead of back and into the interior.

I had a similar situation with my 04 duramax. The tube broke off and flooded the interior. I disassembled a bic pen, bent the plastic housing with heat, and stuck it in the drain hole. I haven’t had a problem since. All condensation flows out and not back in.
 

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