10si vs cs130D

[DoubleDingo]

It's probably worthwhile to make sure you have sufficient grounds also. The dimming and generally weak electrical stuff seemed to mostly disappear when I ran better grounds between the alternator bracket and the frame as well as frame to battery. I also replaced a broken ground strap from the firewall to the engine block and that fixed the dim cab interior light issue.

Having the charge wire go straight to the battery and also having the second battery running the aux electrical components has really made the entire electrical system function much better.

There are lots of grounds, hefty wires for both power and ground, but the volt meter shows the alternator is lacking. The headlights don't dim, and that is probably because of the relays. Those halogens are good and bright. The charge wire does not go to the battery, though, so that may be the culprit. While the truck is apart, it will get more grounds added and different charge wire routing, and bigger charge wire, since it all has to be rerouted anyhow. The harness is fairly new, ground connections are clean, so it's not old corroded connections.

 

[Catbox]

We did the CS130 upgrade and it was quite simple.
I found the adapter cable online and the alternator itself came from a 1988 Cadillac in the junkyard.
The charge wires and ground cables have been updated as well.

 

[AuroraGirl]

To carry that kind of current reliably, I'd want to see no less than 2AWG, and preferably better than. Truth be told, 180 amps is probably so overkill for the application that it'd be hard to work up a load that's even 50% of that... unless you're running a dozen aircraft landing lights and/or monster stereo

8 gauge wire would be sufficient in uses with a 125 amp charging system with at least 3-4 foot charge cables. The sustained amps wont be anywhere near that and esp not at idle oire low RPM. Esopecially with the CS130, yesterdays news. Yawn.

CHARGING SYSTEM 130mm STATOR more like.

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AIR COOLED DUAL ELECTRIC FAN 2nd GEN DELCO ELECTRONICS (1)30mm STATOR
That pic is 237 yes but the AD230 is the equivalent to the Cs130 and it will literally fit in place.

It doenst have an external fan and its better made and its heat handling is way better and its got the same but more features as the CS which had a good life. THe CS130D and CS144 can still be very real pics tho even comparing to a ad237m ad244,

The CS130 is a past era. get the better one new somewhere.

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different mounting bosss than the one you would buy but there is an ad230 iin its electrical entirety and the wiring is similar so helpful.
you can put an ad244 rectifier on a ad230 and all it does is make it future proof to hell because its just overbuilt and its not likely to be the fault.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Good to know the 12si is sufficient. I will buy one of those when I get Crusty Biscuit back up and running. The volt meter dropped every time I turned on the headlights, and would fluctuate when the blinkers were on, and turn on the heater fan, whoa! it looked like the alternator couldn't keep up at all, even with higher revs. 12si it is. I do plan to install an auxiliary fan when all is said and done, and won't be running anything with high draw.

the CS130 assuming it was appropiately setup to the theoretical cs130 and vice versa(speed of pulleys, normal amp outputs generally, no aftermarket specials because its diff game then, CS130 would last longer but in a less serviceable package. your 12si if it fits now should fit a cs130. but that menas the ultimate goal is AD230
however ify ou service it yourself on a basis or you like the cheapest store option at fingertips(there is a small jump bnut thats a lot for some people to take on. )you would be best off with the best deisngs but that also goes to a easy test: KISS? DAre all owners demands met and are the competititions lifespans ultimately night and day better? not really. If you do v belts the less chirp and skip would be helpful.