This is very subjective, but I have been pleased with BFG K02 for light off roading, highway, and snow.
K03 are coming, and should be available next time I need tires in 3 years or so.
O2 voltage should be constantly varying back and forth between 0.1v and 0.9v as the computer constantly adjusts fuel. high volts is rich and it pulls fuel (fuel trims will be below 128). low voltage is lean and it adds fuel (fuel trims will be above 128). ideal AFR is around 0.5v, but it will...
see if any other odd things happen to be in the circuit. Just had an issue on my 90 burb where the gauges all went dead and turning on the head lights the buzzer buzzed bc it thought the key was off even while running. truck would run and drive ok. but the gage/idle fuse would blow as soon as...
make sure air blows through it before you install it. reason I stress that is I didn't do that one time and then had to tear it down and replace it again.....new parts sometimes are also bad.
make sure the rear expansion valve isn't clogged up before you reassemble the rear system. it should be open at room temp and totally closed at freezing temps.
The biggest difference between open and closed loop is feedback from the O2 sensor. You could unplug it and start and see if it stalls out. Unplugging it will likely make the SES light come on, but shouldn't prevent it from starting/running. But agree with above, that disconnecting the EST...
pretty sure the shop that replaced my Burb's fuel pump a few years ago bent the float arm to show less gas than actual to "help me" by making sure i dont burn up a fuel pump. after the replacdment, the gauge stopped going about 1/4 past full like they usually do and was showing about 3/4 empty...
Definitely something heat related, it seems. ICM is an easy swap to check. if the ICM doesnt fix it, you might scan from a cold start and see if the issue just happens to coincide with going into closed loop just to be sure it isnt something sensor related? could be multiple issues...
Windows are on a circuit breaker, not a fuse. so if it struggles and gets hung up, eventually the heat may trip the circuit breaker. it cools off and works again after a little bit. circuit breaker keeps it from burning things up if somebody just holds down the switch after the window is up or...
Guessing when the gate was overloaded, something got pushed down and is making contact with the bottom of the windows assembly.
Or you might try taking the screws out of the tailgate panel and seeing if they are too long?
The cowl drains get clogged eventually and water stacks up and comes in the kick panel area. Under the truck behind the front fenders is where they drain. You may have to remove a plastic trim piece and pull some foam out of the way. I've had to clean, flush, clean, flush, etc until I got all...
I still can't tell how the timing is being set. if you pulled the distributor, put the engine at TDC, then you need to stab the distributor with the rotor pointing as close to cylinder 1 as possible. then start it and let it warm up. then unplug the EST bypass and put the timing light on wire...
1. The ICM was probably what was bad, not the entire distributor
2. It isn't clear how you set the timing after you dropped the new distributor in. Timing should be set with a timing light on the #1 wire on a warm engine (if possible) with engine running and EST bypass unplugged.
the module is available here - https://www.workhorseparts.com/15598496-Module-Asm-Wiper-Switch-Pulse-Control.
I've also had the intermittent wipers behave badly because of internal wiper motor issues.
The front system does seem to be boosted when the rear is on in mine also, and I usually at least use the rear fan on LOW when the front is on even if nobody is sitting in the back.
There isn't a lot of ductwork in the back. It is just the blower fan and an air deflector. If your deflector is...