Just curious and I can't seem to find anything with the few quick searches I've done, but does anyone know what the stock converter stall speed was for a early 70's TH-400 behind a 454?
Thanks for the reminder... I've seen stuff like that before. More recently I've found out that it's quite easy and much cheaper to buy components for different systems like P/S pumps, alternators, and such to rebuild them myself rather than get re-manned units from the store.
Helped a friend move yesterday and got to test all my tuning and small fixes. Truck is definitely running better and the kickdown switch works. I think I'm getting a bit better gas mileage as well. :waytogo:
Thanks!
I have yet to verify, but I think there might be a different between the early and late model squares, but only in the direction that switch is activated. Basically if there is a difference I think it's the orientation of the base of the switch to the metal bracket/cover that's...
As long as your hard lines are good, I'd just hit up the auto parts store for the new hydraulic parts like wheel cylinders, calipers and such. As for the drums and discs, you might be able to get them turned if they need it.
I found out that my kickdown switch was bad the other day and thought I'd share the information I've found while trying to locate another one.
1) They are fairly easy to take apart and very simple in concept. I found this thread after I tore mine apart which duplicates my process...
I already know it's the switch... Continuity test confirmed that it wasn't making contact. Pulled it apart last night and the anti-corrosion stuff inside had hardened up after 9 years of disuse and was acting like a insulator. I knocked the crud off and put the switch back together, but won't...
Been tuning the carburetor and driving her around on the weekends... She's getting there, but I found out that my kickdown switch for the TH400 is dead. Anyone know where to get one local or am I stuck having to track it down online?
Interestingly enough, it looks like the junction block is on it's side... I'd take pictures of mine, but the truck is parked in such a way I can't get under the hood right now.
In my experience there are two sets of holes punched into the frame for the different spring lengths. So, I don't think there'd be an issue moving it to the second set of holes if yours has them. Just use grade 8 bolts putting it back together.
For that bed opening you'll need LMC Part # 32-3364
Do you have just the single tank? What side is it on? I might have the filler neck you need. Not sure about the hose though.
Alrighty, looks like I'm headed out there this weekend... I'll keep an eye out for stuff while I'm hunting down a few miscellaneous parts.
Any Houstonians want to join in the fun?
There's a bolt on the pump bracket that will let it move in towards the engine and let you get the belt off. After that you just have to take out the remaining bolts that hold it to the engine. With the '77, I'm not sure, but I think there's a nut that locks the pully to the pump. If that's...
There's a bit of surface rust, but it's solid and I have all the bolts for it as well. A bit of clean up and it'll great. The red around the bottom side is some sort of sealer that was used to help keep out the elements.
Just so happens I have a bolt in floor hump I picked up a few weeks ago at the yard... I'll see if I can get pictures to let you see if it'll work for ya.