Done dun it

Old Blue 79 Scot · Saturday at 12:49 PM

Well, noticed my EGR housing was cracked, looked like this truck used to run on LAVA! After being unable to figure out the angle to get a socket or wrench on it, tried a crows foot wrench and bent the tool. Cut the UFO looking part off, got a socket on the top nut and twisted ‘er right off after a kroil soak overnight.

Anyway, I’m hosed and open to all suggestions. I have a new EGR but man…..should I just block it off? It’s a 1979 k10 with a 350, just pulled the smog crud out and no emissions where I live.
Thank you!
-Z

Goldie Driver · Saturday at 12:56 PM

Well, all you will need is a block off plate and a gasket and to plug the 1 vacuum hose that feeds it. Id say try it and see if your gas milage

is affected or drivability after just fooling with that component.

*Edit* Did not read your post correctly in that the other smog stuff is off. Other than that, same thought.

You may find that your mileage goes down and elect to reinstall it.

Worth a try, though. :waytogo:

Old Blue 79 Scot · Saturday at 1:00 PM

Yep for now that’s the line of thinking I’m on. I’d like to put the new one on but I twisted that top nut off so once I get that stubborn chunk off the upper side, I guess more kroil and try to work the stud out and go from there .
Thanks!

78C10BigTen · Saturday at 1:10 PM

Old Blue 79 Scot said:
Yep for now that’s the line of thinking I’m on. I’d like to put the new one on but I twisted that top nut off so once I get that stubborn chunk off the upper side, I guess more kroil and try to work the stud out and go from there .
Thanks!

Small propane torch and heat the stud? Obviously not right afer you apply the kroil but... id just throw a cheap block off plate on it and block the vaccum too.

Ricko1966 · Saturday at 1:23 PM

Do you have a welder or access to one. Oxyaccetelyn or Mapp gas torch? If you have access to a welder put a flat washer over the broken stud and weld it to it, then place a nut on the washer and weld it to the washer and through the center then twist the nut with a wrench that usually brings things out. If using heat( torch) to try to free it you heat the area right next to the broken stud or bolt. Heat expands things so you heat the metal around the stud to hopefully make it grow enough.to release its grip. I'd also try cutting it and center punching it and drill and tap. I don't see where you'd have any better luck securing and sealing a block off plate with one stud, than you would a new EGR valve with 1 bolt. At least the new egr valve has a raised boss to keep it located, rather than trying to keep a smooth plate located. I suppose you could drill and pin either and use 1 bolt and red rtv.

Old Blue 79 Scot · Saturday at 1:35 PM

That’s what I was afraid of, putting fire next to the carb, gives me the willies. I have a propane torch, no welder access or know-how though. You’re right Ricko, a vice grip will probably do nothing.
I still can’t get that upper chunk off, it’s still got some threads in there or just got so hot it welded itself on there. Gonna wrangle an air chisel and see what happens.
Thank you for the advice

Smtty58 · Saturday at 3:33 PM

Can't tell from the pics, but I'll assume that's a stud with a junk nut still on it. Tape the ports, cut the nut with a die grinder or Dremel, then chase the stud threads.

Old Blue 79 Scot · Saturday at 4:08 PM

It’s a long shot, going to try to zip a line through that stud and ‘pray’ it out with a flathead. I don’t want to take the carb off but the way this is going…..this was a 5 minute job. Take it off and put the new one on. HA!

mxer147 · Saturday at 4:14 PM

The carb should be easy to remove; it will give you more room to get at that broken piece and also reduce the chance of ruining something else in that area as you try to remove, repair and install.

Ricko1966 · Saturday at 4:17 PM

Old Blue 79 Scot said:
It’s a long shot, going to try to zip a line through that stud and ‘pray’ it out with a flathead. I don’t want to take the carb off but the way this is going…..this was a 5 minute job. Take it off and put the new one on. HA!

That is not going to work. I guarantee you it will not work. Your best bet with what you want to do and tools available. Grind or file the end of the stud flat and center punch it. Drill a pilot hole than drill bigger than the bolt hole in the egr. That will release that corner then continue drilling tap drill size, then retap the hole. If you are really good and use tap drill size, you may be able to remove the outter threads of the original stud with a pick. Then you won't even have to tap it.

Old Blue 79 Scot · Saturday at 5:18 PM

Got the chunk! You can see my totally-foreseeable-fail on that top stud. Yep, we all knew it haha. Carb is coming off in the winter time! That’s a can of worms for tomarr if it comes to it, for now I’m going to try to thread a 3/8 nut on the lower and a 1/2 on top and hope they snug together and work that stud out.

You guys are awesome for helping, and I’ll hopefully not be taking the carb or the whole dang intake off and learning how to weld in panic mode. That might happen though, I’ll post a result soon.
Thanks!

Old Blue 79 Scot · Saturday at 8:30 PM

Ricko1966 said:
Do you have a welder or access to one. Oxyaccetelyn or Mapp gas torch? If you have access to a welder put a flat washer over the broken stud and weld it to it, then place a nut on the washer and weld it to the washer and through the center then twist the nut with a wrench that usually brings things out. If using heat( torch) to try to free it you heat the area right next to the broken stud or bolt. Heat expands things so you heat the metal around the stud to hopefully make it grow enough.to release its grip. I'd also try cutting it and center punching it and drill and tap. I don't see where you'd have any better luck securing and sealing a block off plate with one stud, than you would a new EGR valve with 1 bolt. At least the new egr valve has a raised boss to keep it located, rather than trying to keep a smooth plate located. I suppose you could drill and pin either and use 1 bolt and red rtv.

Re-red and acknowledged. This is the move, I appreciate it very much. I knew it was going this way but having specific advice is priceless and it’s about time I learn to weld anyway. She’s rusty!

Finkaire · Saturday at 9:37 PM

Never to be seen in California again haha

Old Blue 79 Scot · Sunday at 2:44 PM

This is working for now, the truck runs better so I’ll keep an eye on it. Was getting 8.6 mpg with the cracked housing and plug 6 and 8 (directly under the egr valve) were brutal looking. Plugs and wires are now new. It used to take longer than necessary to start but it ran great, now it starts right away and still runs great. We’ll see.

78C10BigTen · Sunday at 3:32 PM

Old Blue 79 Scot said:
This is working for now, the truck runs better so I’ll keep an eye on it. Was getting 8.6 mpg with the cracked housing and plug 6 and 8 (directly under the egr valve) were brutal looking. Plugs and wires are now new. It used to take longer than necessary to start but it ran great, now it starts right away and still runs great. We’ll see.

All this time ya had a 6cyl! Lol

Done dun it

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