Chuck’s engine build thread!
- Thread starter ChuckN
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I used a hi pressure not hi volume pump, Melling modded by moroso. I always take them apart and check clearances. I also put a groove on the gears to stop cavation, but moroso did that for me. RPM goal on my engine is 6500, so I used a 60 lb spring.
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- Joined
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From my engine build post 59.
Rods have .028 side to side gap, just fine. Main bearing clearance was .002 on 1-4. and .0025 on #5. Rod clearance is consistent @ .0015. Minimum clearances allows me to run a lighter weight oil, less volume, both increase power, and better oil control. The rods @ .0015 will flow about 1 gal a minute, whereas .0025 will run about 3 gallons a minute. The three big oil users are Main bearings, Rod bearings, and Lifter. Keeping tight clearances helps a huge amt., with oil control, windage, and crank oil entrainment.
Rods have .028 side to side gap, just fine. Main bearing clearance was .002 on 1-4. and .0025 on #5. Rod clearance is consistent @ .0015. Minimum clearances allows me to run a lighter weight oil, less volume, both increase power, and better oil control. The rods @ .0015 will flow about 1 gal a minute, whereas .0025 will run about 3 gallons a minute. The three big oil users are Main bearings, Rod bearings, and Lifter. Keeping tight clearances helps a huge amt., with oil control, windage, and crank oil entrainment.
ChuckN
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@Craig Nedrow nice! My main clearances ended up being .0027. So that’s what I’m working with. On his advice, I did pick up a Melling shark tooth. It’s 10% above stock volume and comes with different springs to set the pressure bypass to what I want.
Scott at the shop called me today, and offered to come in on his day off for pick up. So I brought it home and organized the rest of my little work area. It was tricky lifting the block out of the van and getting it on the engine stand since their dimensions don’t work well together for whatever reason, but it’s on the stand now and I’ll get to work this week.
Scott at the shop called me today, and offered to come in on his day off for pick up. So I brought it home and organized the rest of my little work area. It was tricky lifting the block out of the van and getting it on the engine stand since their dimensions don’t work well together for whatever reason, but it’s on the stand now and I’ll get to work this week.
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ChuckN
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I didn’t have much time to myself yesterday, but I did spend some time on the phone after I noticed that neither the pistons nor rings have a recommendation for ring gap.
True to the nature of this, I called three places- the piston maker, ring maker, and last the shop that sold the assembly. I got wildly different responses from all three which was frustrating. Not knowing that you just go with the piston manufacturer recommendation to begin with.
Speed Pro/Sealed Power said 4-4.5 thousandths per bore inch top, and 5 thousandths on the bottom ring. I’m going to run on the wide end of both so I give the pistons the best chance of living if I get them pretty hot.
True to the nature of this, I called three places- the piston maker, ring maker, and last the shop that sold the assembly. I got wildly different responses from all three which was frustrating. Not knowing that you just go with the piston manufacturer recommendation to begin with.
Speed Pro/Sealed Power said 4-4.5 thousandths per bore inch top, and 5 thousandths on the bottom ring. I’m going to run on the wide end of both so I give the pistons the best chance of living if I get them pretty hot.
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Sounds about right if it's an N/A deal. With nitrous or boost you want to add an extra thou per inch in most cases.
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Chad, FWIW I am running .028" top and .029" on the bottom for reference, based on the math D.S.S. provided with the ring set.
TotalyHucked
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Yeah I err'd on the wide side of the recommendation when I did my 5.3 in my '05. It's been perfectly fine
ChuckN
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It’s sage advice- a guy said that too loose won’t kill it, but too tight will.
ChuckN
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Which pistons are you running?
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These are the D.S.S. P/N 8113-4040 @ .040 over.
Here is their guidelines, much on the same logic:
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Might be worth it to check the oil rings, oddly enough I had to file them on mine to get them to the .015" minimum - not that those will see much heat, doesn't hurt to check em.
ChuckN
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Absolutely!
Absolutely. Are you doing a power adder then?
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Yes, will see some boost and just good insurance to run the wider gap. If just going N/A you won't need as much ring gap.
ChuckN
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Got the engine taped off, and put on the primer after heating with a propane burner and a wipe down with acetone.
Then this morning, I finished off taping a couple other areas I missed, and commenced with applying the Motor Coater. I see one thin area I missed, but that will have to wait a week for full cure per the instructions. That’s ok, I’ll likely see some other areas to touch up. The brass plugs should really pop with the orange after I remove the tape. Edit- the color is much brighter than this, the website filter really dulls it down.
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Then this morning, I finished off taping a couple other areas I missed, and commenced with applying the Motor Coater. I see one thin area I missed, but that will have to wait a week for full cure per the instructions. That’s ok, I’ll likely see some other areas to touch up. The brass plugs should really pop with the orange after I remove the tape. Edit- the color is much brighter than this, the website filter really dulls it down.
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