yes that’s what i did. vacuum holds after line is clamped and it’s in drive. but now maybe it’s less of a lope and more of a stumble due to the big rpm drop
well, it held a vacuum when I did as you suggested. Holds pretty steady around 18 or 19 Hg.
here’s the clip:
But whenever it goes to drive, it’s still a bit lopey. not as bad as it was when I first got it I don’t think but it’s definitely dropping about 200 RPM as soon as it goes into gear...
yeah, it’s still leaking. It’s better than it was when i got it by far but I’m gonna have to address it again.
I’m getting very different suggestions from Summit, rock auto and O’Reilly on the flexplate size. based on the block information and the transmission, summit is saying a 153 tooth and...
I’ve had the flex plate off to replace the rear seal and there weren’t any cracks. But i’m replacing the flex plate anyway
The thing i would really like to know is if that less than a 1/16” gap with the bell housing is typical?
sorry i thought that was included
79 C10 2wd 350/350
Numbers indicate transmission is likely a rebuilt 79 350. The engine, at least the short block, is an 88 to 91. 305 TBI heads. Like I said, a bit of mish mash when I got it.
i’ve had this 79 for a couple of months and I’m working my way through all its problems.
It’s had a pretty good intermittent rattle when under decent acceleration that I have assumed might be broken blades in the torque converter. at least that is where the sound seems to be coming from. I...
about to start repairing my own system on my 79. not sure about viability of my compressor as i’ve only had the truck a couple months (how to test compressor?).
system was previously converted to 134.
anyway, what are the pros on cons of an upgraded compressor vs the original style?
hoping somebody out there can help me figure out how this is happening.
I’ve got a 350 transmission. My truck has been sitting in the same place for the past two weeks. Absolutely nothing has moved on the truck. Batteries been disconnected and intake Manifold has been off, so it’s been sitting...
going to replace my AC heater control unit, it’s a little beat up.
Would like to hear from some of you with experience if grabbing an OEM head or an aftermarket works better?