I've never messed with them but corvettes and some other GMs had telescopic columns. Not sure if they would end up shorter or longer than a truck column.
A 700r4 should have the original partial vin stamping on the passenger side rear above the pan rail.
If it has a tag adhered to it that would, to me suggest its been replaced/rebuilt at some point.
I looked at them on AMDs site, 73-80 they appear to be the two piece seal design? Like OE?
Wasn’t it that the later one piece seal design were the only ones that used to be available as a new assembly?
@Moodyalaskan funny enough I do have one of those and was using it.
I trimmed a little more and was able to get things to fit.
With that I was able to get the MSD distributor stabbed back in and everything hooked back up. It runs again. Now I need to get to work on rebuilding the original...
From the factory the seam sealer would have been in-between the panels before they were spot welded, the squeeze out would have been wiped I guess to smooth it.
If you want to smooth the spot weld dimples thats a personal choice.
Definitely use a 2k seam sealer. In my opinion absolutely...
I’d say you’d be more likely to find a short bed step side 454 C10 that does have the F44 rpo (big ten/heavy half) than not, as (until 1979) that would get you a truck without emissions equipment. The muscle truck thing really started with the F44/F150/D150s.
And with the general ‘Truckin’...
I built a fender well, or ‘porkchop’ (never heard it called that either but I like it) box as a high school metal shop project for my 76.
These aren’t great pictures, but it has the upper compartment and then the lower area. The big difference between mine and commercial ones is it tucks under...
I would first get a set of manifold gauges (and a vacuum pump) hook onto the high and low pressure ports.
If you have pressure in the system, then you should be able to install belt and move the selector into an A/C position and see if it will cycle. (Someone correct me if I’m wrong here)...
I’m not familiar with how the lower ball joints are configured on those trucks, does the control arm have a ‘pocket’ for the joint to slot into? Where both sides of the joint are touching control arm?
I’d probably go carbide burr on die grinder to whittle away the rivets just below the parting...
Out in the Midwest at least, stacked frames were kind of ‘common’ at one point. Not really on drivers, but county fair type ‘exhibition’ rigs.
Not really finding a lot of pictures, but they are out there, or were.