so recently did my 465 swap having some shifting issues which is why i havent posted more on the swap my master is a 13/16 bore the slave is 11/16 bore and im having issues pushing the pedal its very very stiff and engages 2 inches from the floor and has 1 inch of travel from engage and...
ok transmission is in and everything is ready for the pedals i will post the rest of the build picks with details and required items later on after its finished i dont have too many pictures as it was a fight to get this transmission at a proper angle and my brothers finger got crushed and...
ok so i didnt get very far at all today got the bellhousing on the truck put the master cylinder in the reserve mounted on the walk and then a big disapointment with the pedals but discovered that NO a 74 c60 clutch pedal assembly will not fit in 85-88 style trucks they require a 85-87 offset...
so a my bud bill thats been helping me with this explained to me about shifter play and i just didnt get it im a visual learner and found out later on watching rebuild videos what he was talking about you want to check the T at the end of the shifter for play and to see if the dowl pin is still...
the new flywheel came in and it was the right one it only goes in one way there is a dowel pin it slides onto and in many many cases unless the motor was from a manual before you wont have an input bearing the clutch comes with an input bearing and a to bearing if get a full kit for 140$ for a...
is it just me or has no one else noticed that the endcaps for the cv joint are not compressed entirely into the housing on the axle side? or am i the only one who sees the shiny silver showing on the bearing caps they should be compressed to where theres a lock ring that goes on the inside to...
there she is all put back together i would of taken re-assembly pics but i was so frustrated with needle bearings by that point i forgot
but pro tip its easier to put the first layer of needle bearings in by spinning the shaft back and forth then you put in a spacer ring then the next layer of...
this is the c clip you should remove and the only c clip yes you will be a little frustrated getting the chain drive out but with some gentle prying it will come out
do not do this booboo it took 3 hours to get everything properly back together
once your shafts and chain is out remove the...
like this
now that your 208 is out the bolts for removal are 9/16 or 14mm there are two outside bolts that are different length then the rest they only go back into the outer left and right spot
make sure you remember them mark them whatever or you will have some issues
these 6 bolts dont...
So I've decided I'm going to do a build thread on this since I've needed help and wasn't sure of a few things and there is alot of things I discovered and did not know I will keep this as up to date as possible .. first off if you are looking for a 465 to swap in behind a small block pay the...
if you use a factory slave and make a bracket for it you will need to make a longer rod as the standard one is too short unless you make a few angles to move the slave back on the bell housing 32 tooth input shaftyou have two bolts longer then the rest on the outside of the t case they go on...
all most all the parts are in to get this underway unfortunately im being told that the firewall mount reservoir for the clutch doesnt exist so im trying to locate one in a junkyard because autoparts stores are morons
This is the current state I got my bell housing (it's just sitting there I got to replace the fork ball) as you see it's the z rod which will be changed over to hydro once I get the slave in to fab the bracket which will bolt to the front of the bell due to it being a push slave (it's a factory...