How many mounts should SM465/NP208 have? + 4x4 light + linkage

[AuroraGirl]

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Is something missing up there by the tunnel/floor? That just dont seem like its meant to be open like that. And as visible, my transfer case mount is looking a little unhealthy. Is it the only one?

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Vent tube is visible but that bolt-notch is making me think something may be missing. Unless thats a case bolt that is not present?

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The picture was a bad-shot of the passenger side, but it also appears to be my transfer case linkage. Whats the adjustment procedure? And can I lubricate the pivot points? I cant seem to notice any trans mounts other than the one mount for the transfer case. I feel like there would be a radial-placed mount for torque-axis, because the flywheel is spinning rotationally and so are these parts, having one mount on the bottom and nothing on other than the motor mounts seems like a lot for 3 mounts to bare

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Does this wire lead to the 4x4 switch? If so i will update my other thread with this

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[Grit dog]

Nope just the trans x member mount is all.
But that’s some grade A Midwest patina you got going on there. Likely the only way to adjust that linkage is with a grinder or gas axe. It’s staying right there where it is for a long time judging by the shade of that burnt orange paint on it!

 

[AuroraGirl]

@bucket being that i had the wrong t case listed originally, you have any wisdom to impart? beings i have 2 205 1 203 and 1 208, what of the three do you think meets my needs the best? I have cross members for all of them, adapters for 2 for my sm465. but i have 3 sm465, too. so likely the different spline counts if i read correctly.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Ive figured more out @bucket i talked to my uncle and he said a lonng time ago my gpa took the driveline out, not differentials, and swapped one from a newer chevy in that he had gotten to get parts off. Im guessing a 85/86, which corresponds with oneo f the two 81+ trucks i have parts for(one is 81, the date on door says so) i only base the 85/86 on the cross member you mentioned.

But the original driveline must be the ones here in this corner, with the what i think is period correct crossmember(can either be used??) and the t case and adapter for SM465. nearby is the bellhousing cover, nearerby is the clutch, etc. It makes sense, then.

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What I have outside is, correct me if im wrong, a 1977 fixed-rear-yoke 205/sm465 with a front yoke. As opposed to my 1980 slip yoke rear 205/sm465 with front flange

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[AuroraGirl]

@Blue Ox thanks for bringing the crossmember to my attention..

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Being incorrectly installed Im assuming explains why my mount didnt seem to be in the right spot for the T case.

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I believe im not crazy now, when i had used 4wd i was certain SOMETHING wasnt right. Slapping your body with the drive shaft im sure isnt helping anybody.

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These two little guys here wouldnt be for anything related to this, does anyone think?

 

[bucket]

If the setup that's currently installed in the truck works fine, I'd just run that.

The opening in the floor for the shifter is normal. I'd guess the blue RTV smeared all over the place was an attempt to fix a leak? That connector does look like the one for the 4 wheel drive indicator in the cluster, but it's hard to tell where those wires go to in the picture.

 

[AuroraGirl]

If the setup that's currently installed in the truck works fine, I'd just run that.

The opening in the floor for the shifter is normal. I'd guess the blue RTV smeared all over the place was an attempt to fix a leak? That connector does look like the one for the 4 wheel drive indicator in the cluster, but it's hard to tell where those wires go to in the picture.

Is the indicator near original 205 location? He may have extended the wiring with yellow and black.. its like the 2 colors of wire he owned. its why my choke wire is yellow. If you think the 208 is sufficient for my uses, i will glady keep it. Its just i feel it wasnt done... right... as you may have noticed. The cross member, the broken mount, the lack of any other mounting, the bent bed support where the driveshaft kissed it, the u joints that are worn, the engine mounts,the linkage looks... cockeyed, my Z bar seems molested, etc.

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and curious on your thoughts about the other stuff, but thanks its all very helpful and needed to take in lol

 

[bucket]

Is the indicator near original 205 location? He may have extended the wiring with yellow and black.. its like the 2 colors of wire he owned. its why my choke wire is yellow. If you think the 208 is sufficient for my uses, i will glady keep it. Its just i feel it wasnt done... right... as you may have noticed. The cross member, the broken mount, the lack of any other mounting, the bent bed support where the driveshaft kissed it, the u joints that are worn, the engine mounts,the linkage looks... cockeyed, my Z bar seems molested, etc.

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and curious on your thoughts about the other stuff, but thanks its all very helpful and needed to take in lol

I'm sure we could nitpick the install all day, but really the biggest thing that stands out to me is the driveshaft. It looks like it could stand to be another 2-3" longer. I'm not sure why it's so close to the cab though, maybe the cab mounts are shot?

 

[AuroraGirl]

I'm sure we could nitpick the install all day, but really the biggest thing that stands out to me is the driveshaft. It looks like it could stand to be another 2-3" longer. I'm not sure why it's so close to the cab though, maybe the cab mounts are shot?

Oh you think its.. too short?? How far in is the slip yoke supposed to go? It would make sense being "short": since the mount and the crossmember are installed at least a couple inches aft of proper position.And IM not trying to nitpick my grandfather, but if its not done correctly and that is causing the wear+damage i see, I would like to correct it.
Cab mounts are shot.. but I dont think that is what is making it so close. I dont think the driveshaft is supposed to be starting that close to the top, maybe the tc is shimmed or higher than it should be? Or perhaps when i took the photo, the transfer case was twisted because the mount is only missing half of itself, the side where it would twist upward toward the truck(driveshaft wise)

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[AuroraGirl]

Oh you think its.. too short?? How far in is the slip yoke supposed to go? It would make sense being "short": since the mount and the crossmember are installed at least a couple inches aft of proper position.And IM not trying to nitpick my grandfather, but if its not done correctly and that is causing the wear+damage i see, I would like to correct it.
Cab mounts are shot.. but I dont think that is what is making it so close. I dont think the driveshaft is supposed to be starting that close to the top, maybe the tc is shimmed or higher than it should be? Or perhaps when i took the photo, the transfer case was twisted because the mount is only missing half of itself, the side where it would twist upward toward the truck(driveshaft wise)

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That twist would also explain why my z bar looks like it went down the wrong alley after leaving the bar

I feel none of this is helped by all the clutch dumping myself and gpa have done

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[bucket]

The angle of the picture makes it hard to tell, how close is the shaft to the cab? Where is it hitting?

 

[AuroraGirl]

Which shaft? regular driveshaft?
It looks like the front drive shaft, pic from same time as my rear previously showed, is also on a slightly unnatural angle, but i could be wrong.

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This isnt a kink in my frame rail.. is it?

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Im gonna post some more unnatural looking photos:

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[AuroraGirl]

heres that mount. definitely no bueno.. motor mounts seem like they have a twist to them.
None of this is probably aided by old shocks and broken leafs.

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[AuroraGirl]

The most recent driveshaft pic isnt actually that bad, because that must have been when the t case had been in reverse and re-planted it normal, so the pitch isnt so outrageous. The one motor mount looks sharp.

The first driveshaft photo i posted, it had hit the bed. if you meant Zbar shaft, it looks like it smacked the frame maybe and kinked it in 3 spots.or just purly torsional forces

 

[AuroraGirl]

@bucket

new relevant question.

is it possible the length difference in tailshaft is a combination of the tcase being too far forward of the truck because of the crossmember/mount, the mount breaking allowing twist and motor mounts being warn so the whole thing is able to move forward,

ON TOP Of broken leaf springs, esp the top leaf on the driver side, allowing the differential to twist rearward(broken on the rear side of driver spring) .

I ask because im looking for springs for f150 and people said because of my high-weight use i should look at eitehr heavy duty springs or consider anti-twist devices, and i thought damn maybe my springs broken in numerous places with a LOT of weight in the back and a good amount of torque+ clutch dumping probably moves that like a MFer.

So my angle of driveshaft could be affected on pinion AND t case, assuming t case is tilted forward and diff is pointed up or down(related to its normal spot)
@Vbb199 i feel you may have some input on anti-twist because of off roading? id appreciate it fam
or anyone of course lol