Can a full float 14 bolt roll without pinion gears?

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AuroraGirl

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The only thing I see wrong with pulling the axles is that the hubs depend on the carrier and ring gear to be spinning to sling gear oil up the axle tubes to lube the hub bearings. No??? The full float hub bearings are oiled from the gear oil in the axle rather than wheel bearing grease like front 2wd bearings do. No oil, eventually them hub bearings are going to go **** up in a short amount of time.

If want weight reduction and the drums aren't captive, you can even remove the drums if you're not depending on trailer brakes. You might even be able to remove them if they are captive. Those big drums remove a good chunk of weight from spinning mass too.
I was under the implication that when you remove the shafts and fill the pumpkin with more fluid, you would get the oil at the ends of the tubes and it would kinda splash lubricate itself. im by no means an expert and have never removed a single part from a differential other than a ford brake drum to inspect shoes, so i could be mistaken.
 

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I was under the implication that when you remove the shafts and fill the pumpkin with more fluid, you would get the oil at the ends of the tubes and it would kinda splash lubricate itself. im by no means an expert and have never removed a single part from a differential other than a ford brake drum to inspect shoes, so i could be mistaken.

Yeah, more fluid should suffice. Just jack it up a little on one side and pour in more gear lube before you bolt your axle/hub cover on.
 

AuroraGirl

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so I pulled the trailer again to the dump. the problem was definitely in the rear brakes of my f150. After a metric ton of aggressive reverse braking, the trailer pulled MUCH better. And i mean MUCH. I didnt feel like the trailer was trying to push me off the road.

A few things I believe it to be so:
-I have an adjustable ball hitch tongue, I dont think i held it snug when I tightened it on ball. It had a lot of slack.
-Rear drums on truck did some braking, so it distributed way better
-Wind was lower. the topper being tall makes a lot of resistance. it pushes me around. I might need to devise a system to encourage air flow over it rather than into it.
-10 ply AT tires for a trailer, they are gonna have a lot of rolling resistance. im gonna retread them in HT trailer tires
-axle shafts and other rotational mass - if I remove all brake components and the axle shafts dont connect to pinion, the trailer will move at low speeds and stop better. currently has "extra" inertia even on slow movements. I believe its the gears.
-In reverse, the drums apply braking pressure. My ford trailer did the same thing except locked up. I removed the shoes. Ill remove this trailers brakes too.
-When pulling trailer empty, I think im going to replace the front window of the trailer so its hinged so i can let air flow throughit, save me some resistance on return trips.

Also. 11 year old batteries have low capacity. left key in ignition for 1 hour, had to jump this truck with my park avenue(go buick!)
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AuroraGirl

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Another trip to the dump, The truck had gotten new back tires. WORLD of difference. I am actually taking the axle shafts out today and covering the opening, and im making a flip down front window out of pexi and replacing the side glass with not-glass
 

AuroraGirl

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My flip down front window will help reduce wind drag when its empty or if i had non-loseable cargo

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AuroraGirl

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Final trip in my endeavor, new tires had about an equal amount of help as removing the axle shafts, which means about 4x better than when I started. I didnt take any 60 to 0 tests or anything, but without factors such as weight in truck bed, the loads being very similar, and weather being calm, I would say its about 4x better than when I started, which could mean the difference between life or death. The trailer also doesnt feel like it tries to jackknife me!

All in all, when I get the rear drums on my f150(haha, i know), i shall likely find a minor improvement because of how much these changes have made.
 

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