Can a full float 14 bolt roll without pinion gears?

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AuroraGirl

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I have a trailer with that as the axle... if I could remove the pinion gears and the axles stay in, the trailer will have less resistance to turning and moving in general and Id keep it full of fluid/replace gasket so it cant wear out or break. Its just dead weight im turning as a trailer.

I have really no idea how differentials work or been in one before, so forgive me if that is a stupid question.

Also, would the gears(definitely stock square, no idea on what gears) be worth anything to anyone considering new gears can be purchased.

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bucket

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You can simply pull the axle shafts out and make covers that bolt to the hubs. Just make sure there is enough fluid in the housing that it can lube the hub bearings since the ring/pinion will no longer be splashing fluid around the housing.

The innards are not particularly valuable unless there happens to be a Detroit locker or something in there.
 

AuroraGirl

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So if I can cover the ends, the axle shafts can be removed and the pinion won't spin? After pulling the loaded trailer, I think I might actually benefit from the rotational mass of the differential because even though the shafts weigh a decent amount, I think the wasted energy helpse brake. Until I find another option that is.
 

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Added mass adds weight the brakes need to deal with. It will take longer to haul down from speed with the axles in there rotating.
 

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Do the axles weigh a lot? I figured the energy the trailer exerts spinning the wheels and brake drums would be more than the energy needed on my truck to stop the extra weight of the axles, despite the differential turning.
 

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The axle shafts are probably 20-25 lbs each. Unless you’re getting resistance while turning from a locker I doubt you’ll notice any difference while towing.
 

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All right. Ill pull the shafts then. No sense in turning the pinion and having a moving part under the trailer. I was looking at brake options.. I could easily get a pinion brake... but I have no way to power it. Electric brake conversions for truck bed trailers isnt a common subject.

Anyone know where to get a cover for the housing after I pull axle shafts?
 

nvrenuf

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Seems like Diy4x makes axle hubs covers but I don’t know of anyone that makes a cover for the pinion.

The wheel bearings are lubricated by the gear oil so expect it to spill when you pull the shafts and then you’ll need to refill it as if the gears were there so the hubs have enough oil.
 

Mikes78K20

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What I would do is remove the center section and cut the axle shafts off so I can use those ends as caps and reinstall the rear cover. Fill the rear with gear oil and you're good to go.
It might take a bit more fluid due to the missing mass of the carrier/ring gear to fill. I wouldn't worry too much about the pinion gear...leave it in unless you have a way to plug it...that should make the rear much lighter.
And if you want to incorporate the brakes on there, don't know if there are brake kits made any more where the hitch is part of a brake master cylinder and it adds braking as you slow down....it was a common thing in the 1970s and 80s...not so much now...electric brakes replaced all of that.
 

bucket

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What I would do is remove the center section and cut the axle shafts off so I can use those ends as caps and reinstall the rear cover. Fill the rear with gear oil and you're good to go.
It might take a bit more fluid due to the missing mass of the carrier/ring gear to fill. I wouldn't worry too much about the pinion gear...leave it in unless you have a way to plug it...that should make the rear much lighter.
And if you want to incorporate the brakes on there, don't know if there are brake kits made any more where the hitch is part of a brake master cylinder and it adds braking as you slow down....it was a common thing in the 1970s and 80s...not so much now...electric brakes replaced all of that.

It's not so obvious since time has went on, but this thread was kissing cousins with a thread regarding brakes on the truck bed trailer. Link to said thread:

https://www.gmsquarebody.com/thread...-trailer-brakes-possible-need-opinions.28616/
 

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Seems like a lot of trouble...:shrug:
Yes. It is.

So I decided to remove the axle shafts, cover the diff openings(with purchased ends) and adjust the drums on my truck so it trails better generally and it doesnt try to push the truck around. I might also try with just a couple sand bags in bed so it puts weight on my rear drums.
 
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wow, all that work to "reinvent the wheel". lol

all these old rednecks around here missed the memo about having rotating parts on their trailer.
 

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Seems like Diy4x makes axle hubs covers but I don’t know of anyone that makes a cover for the pinion.

The wheel bearings are lubricated by the gear oil so expect it to spill when you pull the shafts and then you’ll need to refill it as if the gears were there so the hubs have enough oil.
Can you find those covers? I cant. I looked on the website. I have the ability to just shop the shafts, no problem, but id just prefer keep them good and sell them or if I replace the axle kind of thing. But, how thick are they to cut? I have a metal cutting chop saw, im sure that would do the job. But would prefer otherwise.
 

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The only thing I see wrong with pulling the axles is that the hubs depend on the carrier and ring gear to be spinning to sling gear oil up the axle tubes to lube the hub bearings. No??? The full float hub bearings are oiled from the gear oil in the axle rather than wheel bearing grease like front 2wd bearings do. No oil, eventually them hub bearings are going to go **** up in a short amount of time.

If want weight reduction and the drums aren't captive, you can even remove the drums if you're not depending on trailer brakes. You might even be able to remove them if they are captive. Those big drums remove a good chunk of weight from spinning mass too.
 

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