G series camper van forums

[Craig Nedrow]

Few more pics, about 1/8 tow in, hard to get a good pic. So c/l of rear wheel. To c/l of front wheel, turn adjuster until you think you have about the right amount of tow in, then clamp the adjuster nuts down and you’re good to go very easy. I think Perry’s down this a few times.

 

[89Suburban]

Few more pics, about 1/8 tow in, hard to get a good pic. So c/l of rear wheel. To c/l of front wheel, turn adjuster until you think you have about the right amount of tow in, then clamp the adjuster nuts down and you’re good to go very easy. I think Perry’s down this a few times.

I do my own alignments as well. I made a set of toe plates out of laminated birch plywood. I purchased a nifty steering wheel holder to hold the steering wheel on center. Then I string line the left front to the left rear to get a base line setting. Then put the toe plates on for the final adjustments. I use folded up poly sheeting under the tires to act as a friction breaker, it works good.

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[YakkoWarner]

I do my own alignments as well. I made a set of toe plates out of laminated birch plywood. I purchased a nifty steering wheel holder to hold the steering wheel on center. Then I string line the left front to the left rear to get a base line setting. Then put the toe plates on for the final adjustments. I use folded up poly sheeting under the tires to act as a friction breaker, it works good.

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I have a question on setting alignment this way:

Since your toe plates are only touching the tire sidewalls, how do you verify that the tire sidewalls and wheels themselves are perfectly true? Do you rotate the wheels and take measurements at 90 degree increments to cancel out inconsistancy?

I always wanted to make something like that, especially for my older vehicles that modern alignment places won't touch. I assumed it would have to be something that attached to the hubs directly in order to take tire and wheel imperfections out of the equation.

 

[89Suburban]

I have a question on setting alignment this way:

Since your toe plates are only touching the tire sidewalls, how do you verify that the tire sidewalls and wheels themselves are perfectly true? Do you rotate the wheels and take measurements at 90 degree increments to cancel out inconsistancy?

I always wanted to make something like that, especially for my older vehicles that modern alignment places won't touch. I assumed it would have to be something that attached to the hubs directly in order to take tire and wheel imperfections out of the equation.

It's good enough for me. They do make toe plates with studs that lay against the rim lip instead of the tire.

Before I made those plates, I made this wheel jig. I still have it. I guess I could find a way to integrate the toe plate to adapt to it, but really I am happy with the results just resting against the sidewall.

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[Craig Nedrow]

Back at it, these brackets were purchased from K Suspension, which I moded. Bent the top to 90*, drilled and tapped two 1/4-20 holes. These clamp to the rain gutters.

 

[Craig Nedrow]

Next we attached them to the drip rails after painting. We used five on each side. They originally had a slot and a single bolt, but that method was not secure, and brackets would bend when tightened, hence why I modified them.

 

[Craig Nedrow]

unitstrut comes in varied renditions, ours is the heavy duty tall version. In retrospect it is overkill. We cut two pieces 171 inches long, which is the roof length. Then the pictures show how we attached them to the brackets. They are very secure and sturdy, I can hang off of them. We are using ss hardware 1/4-20 bolts, washers, nylock nuts. We needed fender washers, but Amazon just delivered them, so now the cross bars can be attached.

 

[Craig Nedrow]

Cross bars are 43 3/8” apart as that fits the spacing on the solar panels. We use these nuts, as they are easily adjusted, and stay in place, and are non corrosive brass. Panels are secured by ss bolts.

 

[Craig Nedrow]

Getting there, all cross bars done. Cut the hole for the A/C used a cutoff wheel, cut like butter. Deburr the cutout, than apply the foam around the hole. We also use elastomer for RV roof both in and outside of the foam.

 

[Craig Nedrow]

All painted and ready to go back on the roof

 

[Craig Nedrow]

Just finished the rack, all right and tight

 

[Craig Nedrow]

Two panels on waiting for wire glands, as I need to route the A/C and solar into the van. Once I get those, will route the wiring rear pass side, down the inside wall, then under the bed where all the electrical stuff will be. Once that is done, then we can mount the DC to DC converter, ( 24v A/C and refer, 12v lights, USB), inverter for shore power, fuse panel, breakers, several buss bars for different voltages.

 

[Craig Nedrow]

One more solar panel up, and I’ve got the air condition all secured and finished except for the wiring. Tuesday We went to Washougal, Washington to Panther RV and bought a Fiamma awning. Very nice, and it looks like it will be very easy to install.

 

[Craig Nedrow]

I have found it is easier and faster to assemble the panels to the unistrut bars on the ground. I use the little spacers, (1/8 x 1 1/2 fb) to keep everything flat and square. These have a 13/32,.265 hole for the 1/4-20 as bolts. So bolt through the panel, through the spacer, into the unistrut nut, works very good.

 

[Craig Nedrow]

This is the procedure to get the wiring down into the van. Templet, used an automatic punch. Drill tap drill holes for screws, then hole saw 1 1/2. Next jig saw, debur. I just got door jam liner that will go around hole to protect wires. Solar (2) wires will also be routed down through here, just did not have the wiring.