8 lug to 10 lug adapter or phantom 10 lug rims

[ricardolibras]

Anyone have any experience with Phantom 10 lug rims from JK motorsports or other vendors?

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I have a 1985 chevy C30 and I want to put a drop kit with some semi rims/commercial tires. I thought getting 22.5" rims milled down to 22" and then using the 8 lug to 10 lug adaptor was the only way. I recently found the above where it is a true 22" rim that doesn't require the adaptor and it looks the same.

Seems like not have the 50 plus pounds of rotating mass on your wheel from the adaptor would be beneficial too.

 

[bucket]

Imho, the only way you can get the big rig look is with real big rig wheels and the big 10 lug pattern. A big rig "looking" wheel with the 8 on 6.5" pattern just looks like every other truck with 22's.

 

[Grit dog]

^Agreed.
I applaud the creativity but imo the phantom 10 lugs look like crap.
Although imo you’re thinking right about using a 22” vs a 22.5” tire. 22.5s will ride like solid rubber wheels because you can’t lower the pressure enough for a little truck.
Honestly if I wanted the big wheel big rig rubber band look on a 1 ton truck I’d just spring for some pimp looking wheels from American Force or similar.
Let’s see what you’re working with!

 

[Scott91370]

You want to run 22" wheels with commercial tires and you're worried about the weight of the adapter?

 

[ricardolibras]

I am certainly not worried about the weight, seems marginal but it is some kind of benefit.
I am not an expert, so I'll take the feedback in the spirit that it's coming from someone with more experience than me.
I don't think the picture completely conveys what these guys are doing. The white plastic studs in the picture are only there to accept the fake chrome lugs that are on every other 8 to 10 lug adaptor and the wheel uses the same center hub. All you will see is the 10 lugs. It's not obvious to me how you would tell the difference between the two.

This is what they claim they look like with the centercap and lugs installed. Could be interwebs voodoo but if you take them at their word, it looks good.

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They are fairly close to me, so I plan to check them out in person to see for myself. Will report back what I find.

Here is what I am starting with. Very stock, straight and in pretty good shape.

Thanks for the feedback.

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[Grit dog]

You want to run 22" wheels with commercial tires and you're worried about the weight of the adapter?

No, turning the rims to accept 22s would allow for not running big truck tires.

 

[Grit dog]

I am certainly not worried about the weight, seems marginal but it is some kind of benefit.
I am not an expert, so I'll take the feedback in the spirit that it's coming from someone with more experience than me.
I don't think the picture completely conveys what these guys are doing. The white plastic studs in the picture are only there to accept the fake chrome lugs that are on every other 8 to 10 lug adaptor and the wheel uses the same center hub. All you will see is the 10 lugs. It's not obvious to me how you would tell the difference between the two.

This is what they claim they look like with the centercap and lugs installed. Could be interwebs voodoo but if you take them at their word, it looks good.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

They are fairly close to me, so I plan to check them out in person to see for myself. Will report back what I find.

Here is what I am starting with. Very stock, straight and in pretty good shape.

Thanks for the feedback.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

I didn’t realize the 8lugs were hidden. Yeah that’s cool. Do it if you like it in person. IMO way easier than adapters, modifying 22.5s etc.

 

[bucket]

I didn’t realize the 8lugs were hidden. Yeah that’s cool. Do it if you like it in person. IMO way easier than adapters, modifying 22.5s etc.

Me neither. If it looks like a big 10 lug hub when all done, then it seems like a good option. I have no idea how the cost compares, however.

I'm kinda surprised that no tire companies make a light duty, low profile 22.5" tire for this application. Seems like a lot of people doing it.

 

[Grit dog]

^ I think it’s because the bead design on all the .5 rims requires higher pressure to stay seated. Hence why you can’t air down the .5s very much. So a light duty tire would still have to be relatively rock hard.

 

[Scott91370]

^ I think it’s because the bead design on all the .5 rims requires higher pressure to stay seated. Hence why you can’t air down the .5s very much.

Any idea why that is? I mean a circle is a circle so why do .5 make a difference over a full inch wheel?
And yes, I'm serious. I am not a physics person by any means and this just does not make sense to me.

 

[bucket]

^ I think it’s because the bead design on all the .5 rims requires higher pressure to stay seated. Hence why you can’t air down the .5s very much. So a light duty tire would still have to be relatively rock hard.

That's not exactly true. There were a lot of 16.5's with a max inflation of 35 psi. At very very low pressures, they do need more pressure to stay seated, but only because of the lack of safety beads.

 

[bluex]

There's alot of bad/misleading info in here...


They don't take a 1/2" off the wheel, it's mainly an angle change at the bead seat so the regular 22" tire will fit.

The direct bolt wheels are all blanks that start off in China or India. You won't see the 8 lug pattern after you put the caps an lug covers on. They are also offering 20s in direct bolt with the phantom 10 lug now if you don't like 22s. Or you can get both sizes without the 10 bolt, which i agree looks really weird lol.

The adapters weigh about 24 lbs each. With the weight savings of the aluminum wheel an the tire it honestly balances out to about the same as the stock steel 16s an tall e range tires.

A far as the cost, a full set with tires, caps lug covers, shipping etc is going to run you about the same either way if you go direct or adapter. The main difference is going to be in the quality of the wheel after final polish. The alcoas are much clearer an shine up better. Kinda like a paint job after a good buff job. The direct bolts are still nice but once you see both you'll realize the difference right away.

You also need to know what your plans are for the truck because if you need them to tuck on the rear, that's extra an requires different rear wheels with more machining.

Mine on custom cut 22 alcoas with adapters. 265/40 tire size 5/7 drop. Not a square i know but the wheel info on them is pretty much the same.

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I did about 3 months of research an checking prices before buying a set, an i went with genuine alcoas an adapters. if I ever buy another set I'll go direct bolt, especially on a truck that's going to be low.

If your on FB look up Custom Dually & Wide Wheels by EdisonTireCo an buy from him. Just my .02 on it if you have any other questions just ask.

 

[Grit dog]

That's not exactly true. There were a lot of 16.5's with a max inflation of 35 psi. At very very low pressures, they do need more pressure to stay seated, but only because of the lack of safety beads.

Sorry I wasn’t specific enough to say currently offered .5s, which is in context with the discussion. But thanks for pointing out an apparent anomaly based on some super light duty application from the past that has no bearing on this.
I’m asking because I haven’t had or seen a 16.5” truck wheel since I was a kid. I know someone me are still floating around though for only god knows why. And I’ve never been brave enough to test against recommendation that .5 wheels need to have a higher min pressure to keep the tire seated in all conditions. (Like 60-70psi iirc)

Since I believe the bead design is the same 15 deg angle for ALL .5s even the ones not made anymore are you saying it’s just fine to run low pressures in a 17.5, 19.5. 22.5?
Or were you just being pedantic, because you drive these trucks daily and know you can’t air them down like inch rims?

 

[Grit dog]

Any idea why that is? I mean a circle is a circle so why do .5 make a difference over a full inch wheel?
And yes, I'm serious. I am not a physics person by any means and this just does not make sense to me.

Different bead seat angle. .5s will actually fit on the same number inch rim like 17 and 17.5. But not recommended because the tires are made to match up to a different angle bead on the rim.

 

[bucket]

Sorry I wasn’t specific enough to say currently offered .5s, which is in context with the discussion. But thanks for pointing out an apparent anomaly based on some super light duty application from the past that has no bearing on this.
I’m asking because I haven’t had or seen a 16.5” truck wheel since I was a kid. I know someone me are still floating around though for only god knows why. And I’ve never been brave enough to test against recommendation that .5 wheels need to have a higher min pressure to keep the tire seated in all conditions. (Like 60-70psi iirc)

Since I believe the bead design is the same 15 deg angle for ALL .5s even the ones not made anymore are you saying it’s just fine to run low pressures in a 17.5, 19.5. 22.5?
Or were you just being pedantic, because you drive these trucks daily and know you can’t air them down like inch rims?

No sir, none of that. There have been many many light truck type 16.5" tires with a max psi of 35-50 psi, and still to this day too. Interco tires, for example. Plus a bunch of obscure brands of tires that are focused more on farm/implement tires.

A light truck 16.5" tire is just that- a light truck tire. There's no reason a tire manufacturer couldn't produce a light truck 22.5" tire, designed to run at light truck pressures. No, I don't believe it's a good idea to run low pressures in 17.5-24.5 truck tires as they are not designed for that.

Also, I don't know where your recommendations came from, but a 16.5" light truck tire has no problem staying seated at 20 psi or less.