I apologize. (Another 700r4 question)

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dale_gribble_01

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Ok so I have a 1984 GMC 1500 with a 700R4 transmission and 5.0L (I know, I know but I like the 5.0) all emissions components have been removed.

Here's my question, as I was rolling around underneath the truck I noticed a unconnected plug. I did read in the forums that it could be emissions related and not needed but just wanting to verify this hack job. Here's a pic of the connector. Thanks for the advice!
 

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Ricko1966

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Okay,yeah nice meeting you great introduction, welcome to the forumn.
 

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Looks like the connector to the egr bleed solenoid. Not necessarily, but a lot of people like to keep the egr valve for a few benefits it can add.
 

dale_gribble_01

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Looks like the connector to the egr bleed solenoid. Not necessarily, but a lot of people like to keep the egr valve for a few benefits it can add.
Thanks for the info!

The truck is new to me, and all the emission things and such were all gone. So I'm still learning, what benefits do the EGR add and would it make sense to put it back on?
 

dale_gribble_01

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Okay,yeah nice meeting you great introduction, welcome to the forumn.
Thank you! I've learn alot by just searching the web a this site turning up so, I thought it was high time to join!
 

Ricko1966

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Thanks for the info!

The truck is new to me, and all the emission things and such were all gone. So I'm still learning, what benefits do the EGR add and would it make sense to put it back on?
It depends on if you have any issues. And if the pieces are missing. 305s are prone to predestination,egr helps eliminate this,by cooling the combustion chambers. It also acts as an inert gas to dilute your air fuel charge which improves gas milage.Its only there at part throttle so not a power loss when you open it up. It also helps with throttling loss,again an mpg thing. 305s also had knock sensor ignition,to help with the predestination so you can run enough timing to make power. There's more but I'm not going through all of it now. Just because it's emissions doesn't always mean it's bad,and sometimes it's better. Is egr intake and egr valve still there?. Is your knock sensor distributor still there? Does the engine have adequate power as is? If the stuff was there I'd try to make it work. Not there and the truck runs decent I wouldn't spend the time abd money chasing it. Truck is sluggish and pings,I'd put things back like they came new or reasonably close.
 

dale_gribble_01

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It depends on if you have any issues. And if the pieces are missing. 305s are prone to predestination,egr helps eliminate this,by cooling the combustion chambers. It also acts as an inert gas to dilute your air fuel charge which improves gas milage.Its only there at part throttle so not a power loss when you open it up. It also helps with throttling loss,again an mpg thing. 305s also had knock sensor ignition,to help with the predestination so you can run enough timing to make power. There's more but I'm not going through all of it now. Just because it's emissions doesn't always mean it's bad,and sometimes it's better. Is egr intake and egr valve still there?. Is your knock sensor distributor still there? Does the engine have adequate power as is? If the stuff was there I'd try to make it work. Not there and the truck runs decent I wouldn't spend the time abd money chasing it. Truck is sluggish and pings,I'd put things back like they came new or reasonably close.
Ah, ok that makes sense. Unfortunately the only thing still left that has anything to do with emissions is the charcoal canister. I definitely agree with you that not all emissions stuff is bad. I guess since none of it is there anymore I'll just run it how it is. Does the truck run? Yes, but not the best. However the motor is probably a little long in the tooth but that's a future me problem. Knock sensor? It's not there that I'm aware of, hell I got a lot of things to work on on the truck but for now I'm focused on the trans and getting the motor mostly running right.

Thank you for the information though! It's helping me figure this beast out!
 

Ricko1966

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If your distributor has a 4 connector plug attached that goes through the firewall ,the knock sensor distributor is still there. We'll help you get it all worked out. What transmission problem are you having. Don't play games with a 700r4 ask,research and learn. They are not like a TH350 and treating them like one will destroy them in j7st a few miles. The cable coming up to the throttle is VERY VERY VERY important. Important that the adjustment is correct,important that the mounting bracket is correct,important that the correct carbureator or correction arm if not the correct carbureator. That cable on a TH350 is for downshifts,on a 700R4 it controls the internal transmission pressure at different throttle openings.
 
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dale_gribble_01

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If your distributor has a 4 connector plug attached that goes through the firewall ,the knock sensor distributor is still there. We'll help you get it all worked out. What transmission problem are you having. Don't play games with a 700r4 ask,research and learn. They are not like a TH350 and treating them like one will destroy them in j7st a few miles. The cable coming up to the throttle is VERY VERY VERY important. Important that the adjustment is correct,important that the mounting bracket is correct,important that the correct carbureator or correction arm if not the correct carbureator. That cable on a TH350 is for downshifts,on a 700R4 it controls the internal transmission pressure at different throttle openings.
Crap, now I gotta go look at the distributor wires. Im vaguely familiar with TV cables on my obs Chevy's. I'm waiting on the right parts arrive to get the proper tv cable distance. I've not have a problem per se, I've only driven max 15 mph in our culdesac. (Carb needed rebuilt but I ended up getting a new to me Edelbrock 1406) But what I do notice is when I put it in drive is that sucker tried to die on me, however when it got moving it was fine. I'm sure only driving it that little bit couldn't tell me much.

As for that connector, I traced the wires up to what I believe is the lockout solenoid. And my luck of course it didn't have a vac line to it. I'm I incorrect?
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Ricko1966

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If you are running a 1406 the carbureator needs a correction arm for the geometry to be right. This is super common people change the carbbthen smoke the transmission 3 weeks later then sell the money pit. Never realizing the carb swap did it. Quit driving it until the TV is right,the damage won't be simple adjustments,it will pull and rebuild the Transmission.
 

dale_gribble_01

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If you are running a 1406 the carbureator needs a correction arm for the geometry to be right. This is super common people change the carbbthen smoke the transmission 3 weeks later then sell the money pit. Never realizing the carb swap did it. Quit driving it until the TV is right,the damage won't be simple adjustments,it will pull and rebuild the Transmission.
When I drove it, it had (hopefully the right setup) the Rochester carb, I haven't drove it AT ALL after putting the edelbrock on there, I'm just waiting for the right parts to get here before I do that! I did read it this form before I joined not to mess around with that until it right so I'll havent. I am truly appreciative of all this help!
 

Ricko1966

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When I drove it, it had (hopefully the right setup) the Rochester carb, I haven't drove it AT ALL after putting the edelbrock on there, I'm just waiting for the right parts to get here before I do that! I did read it this form before I joined not to mess around with that until it right so I'll havent. I am truly appreciative of all this help!
The Qjet and the Edelbrock haven't different arms,different length,different clock position unless someone had this on a 700r4 already and purchased the proper correction kit to use it with a 700r4 it will only work temporarily,the temporary part is it will work temporarily until it burns up the transmission,it will work again temporarily until it burns up that transmission.
 

dale_gribble_01

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The Qjet and the Edelbrock haven't different arms,different length,different clock position unless someone had this on a 700r4 already and purchased the proper correction kit to use it with a 700r4 it will only work temporarily,the temporary part is it will work temporarily until it burns up the transmission,it will work again temporarily until it burns up that transmission.
Hopefully it's all good. I'm gonna do fluids and filters on it tomorrow so that should tell me some kind of condition.
 

dale_gribble_01

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The Qjet and the Edelbrock haven't different arms,different length,different clock position unless someone had this on a 700r4 already and purchased the proper correction kit to use it with a 700r4 it will only work temporarily,the temporary part is it will work temporarily until it burns up the transmission,it will work again temporarily until it burns up that transmission.
The research I have found on various other forums mentioned this kit to get the right dimensions. What are your thoughts?
 

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You will smoke a 700R4 to the ground in less than 5 miles if the TV cable isn’t correct. Go on Amazon and buy a pressure test kit then search YouTube for some how-to’s. It is super simple to get it right and the truck never has to leave the garage. The pressure kits are like $25. Adjust your TV cable in or out (in to increase pressure) until you are within the below specks, then you can drive it.

It will take way, way more time to have to pull the transmission
 

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