Engine cranks, but no start. Unsure of the problem.

[Cj1234]

I have a 78 Chevy c10 with a 350 rebuilt sbc in it. Engine cranks very slowly but never wants to turn over. I messed with the firing order and distributor before this problem, I fixed it and made sure everything where it’s needed to be. I’ve double checked grounds, they’re good. I have a feeling that it’s my starter but again not sure. Everytime I crank, it’s slow, and my battery will drop down to 9v. Also when I crank and spin the distributor it sounds like it’s about to start but doesn’t. What else can it possibly be? Anything I should look at?

 

[Ricko1966]

If it cranks,it is turning over. I'd check the condition of the battery and cables,battery dropping to 9v is a big red flag.

 

[fast 99]

If it cranks it is turning over. I'd cueckbthe condition of the battery and cables,battery dropping to 9v is a big red flag.

beat me to it, lol. Most parts stores have the equipment to test both starter and battery.

 

[Cj1234]

If it cranks it is turning over. I'd check the condition of the battery and cables,battery dropping to 9v is a big red flag.

Battery is brand new and has 800 cold cranking amps.

 

[Cj1234]

beat me to it, lol. Most parts stores have the equipment to test both starter and battery.

Starter works, it’s grounded and pulls adequate voltage at crank. Battery is brand new with 800 cold cranking amps.

 

[Rusty Nail]

Did you check the nut behind the wheel?
Just a thought..

Dedicated to your distributor:

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

 

[Scott91370]

Brand new does not mean it is good.
Is it fully charged? What's the voltage at rest?

Do you have spark? Probably not if the battery is only putting out 9v when cranking.

Are you getting fuel?

 

[Trucksareforwork]

“Cranking and spinning the distributor”

Ok, I’m going to go out on a limb and say your timing is way off and that your slow crank is because you have too much initial timing.

Have you set up timing to be somewhere around 10 degrees initial?

If you are fiddling with the distributor while cranking, I’m guessing you don’t know where timing is set.

Oh, and check and recheck firing order.

 

[Ricko1966]

Battery is brand new and has 800 cold cranking amps.

Well I guess that means your cables and connections are good too. Huh? And no one ever got a bad new battery. If you are pulling your battery down to 9 volts cranking. You have a bad battery,a bad cable or connection,a bad starter or the engine itself is trying to seize. Just reread your post it says everythings where it's supposed to be and then next line down is when you spin the distributor it almost starts. Quit blindly spinning the distributor around. Better yet disconnect the hot lead at the distributor,does it crank normal speed then if no,we have ruled out timing as your slow crank.

 

[Sad Sack]

Battery is brand new and has 800 cold cranking amps.

From my experience as a parts counter person, never rely on the "if its new it works" philosophy. Ever hear of guys buying new sparkplugs and the fun they have when they suddenly realize there are no threads on it after trying to install them? FAF! So, take starter and battery, heck even the alternator into a parts store and have them checked then post the results here. Most stores can print out results too. Words like its new blah blah mean nothing. Proof means everything.

 

[fast 99]

From my experience as a parts counter person, never rely on the "if its new it works" philosophy. Ever hear of guys buying new sparkplugs and the fun they have when they suddenly realize there are no threads on it after trying to install them? FAF! So, take starter and battery, heck even the alternator into a parts store and have them checked then post the results here. Most stores can print out results too. Words like its new blah blah mean nothing. Proof means everything.

Exactly, used to be a replacement part had a decent chance of being usable. That is not the case today.

For me, last failed new SB part was a fuel pump, took 3 before I bought one that actually worked for more than an hour. Now I have spares.

Our shop is getting the occasional bad spark plug. 10 years ago that never happened.

Get the electrical parts checked!

 

[Sad Sack]

Exactly, used to be a replacement part had a decent chance of being usable. That is not the case today.

For me, last failed new SB part was a fuel pump, took 3 before I bought one that actually worked for more than an hour. Now I have spares.

Our shop is getting the occasional bad spark plug. 10 years ago that never happened.

Get the electrical parts checked!

Go in > buy > open box inspect. If store is equipped > check alt, batt and start on testing station BEFORE leaving.
Amazon...well...they have a great return policy!

 

[Grit dog]

Let’s step back a second, @Cj1234 needs some assistance and many of us take it the wrong way when someone who may not have much experience says “I checked ____ and it’s good”. When in fact they may just not know what/how to diagnose. Or more accurately may not or have not provided enough background info to start in the right direction.
It’s tough as I would have to write 3 pages of check this, if yes then, if no, then scenarios.
First start with what lead you to this issue. “I have a Chevy with a 350 and a new battery” provides virtually no info.
Is it a running driving truck you’ve just experienced a new issue with or something you just trailered home that “ran when parked?”
Once we get past that and other ancillary info yet to be provided can start to diagnose.
Heck the 9v you’re seeing could be from running down the battery. You didn’t say you’ve been recharging it while messing with the truck.
From there need to diagnose if it’s a source (battery charge), stream (all the power and grounds verified, more to it than just a multimeter on each end), bad starter, bad timing etc.
So start with background, what lead to the condition. Try to use the right terminology. IE cranks or turns over means only the engine spinning from the starter motor. Fires means it fires or backfires. Means you have spark and fuel and air. Maybe not in the right order or quantity but it’s a place to start.
If it doesn’t fire or just backfires it could be for a multitude of reasons. But timing is the top of the list because you said it was messed up and you fixed it but you were unspecific on what you “fixed.”
And the ever important back story I’ll mention again, if you actually know what/when happened and you didn’t just buy it in a generic won’t run condition.

 

[fast 99]

Let’s step back a second, @Cj1234 needs some assistance and many of us take it the wrong way when someone who may not have much experience says “I checked ____ and it’s good”. When in fact they may just not know what/how to diagnose. Or more accurately may not or have not provided enough background info to start in the right direction.
It’s tough as I would have to write 3 pages of check this, if yes then, if no, then scenarios.
First start with what lead you to this issue. “I have a Chevy with a 350 and a new battery” provides virtually no info.
Is it a running driving truck you’ve just experienced a new issue with or something you just trailered home that “ran when parked?”
Once we get past that and other ancillary info yet to be provided can start to diagnose.
Heck the 9v you’re seeing could be from running down the battery. You didn’t say you’ve been recharging it while messing with the truck.
From there need to diagnose if it’s a source (battery charge), stream (all the power and grounds verified, more to it than just a multimeter on each end), bad starter, bad timing etc.
So start with background, what lead to the condition. Try to use the right terminology. IE cranks or turns over means only the engine spinning from the starter motor. Fires means it fires or backfires. Means you have spark and fuel and air. Maybe not in the right order or quantity but it’s a place to start.
If it doesn’t fire or just backfires it could be for a multitude of reasons. But timing is the top of the list because you said it was messed up and you fixed it but you were unspecific on what you “fixed.”
And the ever important back story I’ll mention again, if you actually know what/when happened and you didn’t just buy it in a generic won’t run condition.

Mostly agree with what your saying. I do try to keep the diagnosis as simple as possible and direct my suggestions toward the most likely/easiest and least expensive cause. Where I have an issue is when the poster rejects suggestions off hand. To repair vehicles baseline testing is nearly always required. Need somewhere to start. Then can move on to more obscure, time consuming and expensive issues.

 

[Grit dog]

Mostly agree with what your saying. I do try to keep the diagnosis as simple as possible and direct my suggestions toward the most likely/easiest and least expensive cause. Where I have an issue is when the poster rejects suggestions off hand. To repair vehicles baseline testing is nearly always required. Need somewhere to start. Then can move on to more obscure, time consuming and expensive issues.

Agree 100%. Even having a prettty good working knowledge of most things vehicle related I spend a lot of time diagnosing issues that aren’t apparent…on anything.