What to do???

[benscharlotte21]

Okay so I'm planning my summer build and trying to figure out what to do. I want to do a 6 inch suspension lift, but don't really know the specifics. I have seen the rough country kit for 500 bucks in round numbers which looks good. On the other hand though I have seen people like to do shackle flips and all of that fun stuff. Which is better and which is less money? I dont want to be cheap but at the same time I cant be be breaking the bank. Another general question mark I have is axles... I have a stock 10.5 inch 14 bolt in the rear and Dana 44 up front. I want to run 37-38 inch tires, will the Dana 44 hold up? I do some light wheeling but never really beat her up. (I have a three inch body so I should clear that size tire) Also back to the shackle flip versus full lift kit question, I am a snowmobiler and I do have a 700 pound sled in there for much of the winter. Does that effect anything?

The pic is of my truck how it sits now

Thanks yall in advance

 

[bucket]

What are your goals for ride quality? The rear is just up to you, some people say blocks are fine when installed properly while others say they would never run them. For simplicity, it's hard to beat blocks and add-a-leaves in the rear.

 

[benscharlotte21]

Ride quality is not terribly important as long as its not ridiculous. In terms of simplicitys sake I was thinking about blocks and add a leaf. With not doing a ton of wheeling I'm not overly worried about axle wrap like I see other people talk about so often.

 

[Driver4r]

well, up untill i found out that my front springs are 4" instead of 6".
I was going to run 6" springs up front, and in the back a shackle flip and 2" springs.
Also im going to put Zero Rates all around.
So instead of 7", now im only going to have 5".

Im gonna run the 4" springs and a shackle flip. And 35"s

37-38"s clear a 6" lift, you just have to set your axle limits.

I myself steer clear of Body lifts.

 

[benscharlotte21]

I know I may end up taking the body out when I do the spring lift. Where are you going to buy your stuff from? If you dont mind me asking

 

[benscharlotte21]

Also what will I have to do to my driveshafts?

 

[Driver4r]

Your driveshafts might work, but they are gonna be maxxed out, Your gonna need extended brake lines. A Dropped pitman arm and raised steering arm.

Im gonna make my own rear hangers for the flip. And i think my springs are pro-comps, i got them slightly used for a good price.

 

[bucket]

...you just have to set your axle limits.

Adjusting bumpstops to save the body defeats the purpose of lifting the truck to begin with. Bumpstops are there mainly to keep the springs from flexing past what they are designed for. Besides running through a mud pit, a stock truck with good suspension flex will go more places than a lifted truck with very little flex.

 

[Driver4r]

Adjusting bumpstops to save the body defeats the purpose of lifting the truck to begin with. Bumpstops are there mainly to keep the springs from flexing past what they are designed for. Besides running through a mud pit, a stock truck with good suspension flex will go more places than a lifted truck with very little flex.

But it looks good and gets the bitches XD.

 

[hirschdalechevy]

If you want to run 38's on a 10 or 12 wide wheel with a 6" lift you will be re-shaping your front fenders off road,(and sometimes on road) . I have 35"s on 10 wide wheels with a 6" and off road it sometimes touches the fenders. You might get by with 8" wide wheels and 37"s with the zero rates all around with a 6" making it a 7".
If you are mostly on the street you can get away with less lift , but it only takes one time and your fender is trashed.Your wheel width plays a big part in messing up your fender's.

Here"s the way I would go,
35"s = 6" lift
37"s = 7" lift
38"s = 8" lift

Everybody has their favorite brand of leafs , so you will get mixed emotions on that. If you want bad boy custom leafs , deaver's are nice all around but if you want to go with the major brands , I like skyjacker's softride , but thats just me. A lot of guy's on here like tuff country , I myself have never ran them because when they first came out , (way back in the day) they were junk but people say they are good now.I have ran rough counrty , rancho , superlift , trailmaster , and pro comp springs in the past and I liked the skyjacker's the best for a good ride and taking a beating off road , aside from the deavers springs I have had (they rode the best).
I like the shackle flip set up for lifts , but dont let people freak you out about blocks in the rear , they work fine. I have had 0 problems with blocks and I have been trashing trucks in the mud , rocks , sand , etc... with big motor's for moons , hell even fords and dodges have been coming from the factories with blocks in the rear stock for moons.
Here is the blazer I am building ,
8" skyjacker springs with my own 0 rate blocks all around = 9" lift
38's on 10 wide wheels for everyday and 40's on 14 wide wheels for mud
cross over steering , 1" t-case drop , 8 lug , cut fenders a bit.

My girls truck, 1978 loaded silverado
6" skyjacker softride springs all around
35's on 10 wides
350 , 350hp roller motor , 4.11 gears , locked rear.

Figure out your tire/wheel size and if you want to cut your fender's or not and get her up in the air enough to clear everything and have fun

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[benscharlotte21]

Thank you hirschdale thats helpful! How difficult is lengthening drive shafts if I end up deciding I need to do that? Any insight? Im going to make a few calls later today to companies to figure out what they have more specifically for lift components themselves

 

[hirschdalechevy]

I always lengthen my driveshafts at 6" and up lifts , even if they make it in length on a 6" lift the front slip yoke's splines are pulled out and if you use 4wd. often the front shaft wear's out faster , same with the rear. If you have a 208 t-case with the slip yoke in the case and not the drive shaft , (like a 205 or 203) , you will need to lower the t-case an inch or so until you have no vibration at hwy. speed or some guy's have a driveline made with a double cardan at the t-case end.

Either way for an 8" lift you will for sure need to lengthen your shafts , some guy's dont do this with a 6" lift but I do.

In my area a fully rebuilt h.d. lengthend front shaft is about 325.00 just to extend one problably around 150.00 (just re toobed and balanced) , maybe a bit more for the rear , (longer).
A good drivshaft shop will not weld in a piece to make it longer , they will replace the whole tube.
If you go 8" you may want to do cross over steering , but you dont have to I have trucks both with and without.
Also you will want to box the frame at the steering box or run the ord frame brace kit , I have trucks both way's. With big tires and lift your frame will crack at the box , may as well beef it out now if you can.

Blazer pic's again ,

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[hirschdalechevy]

I found a pic of my t-case drop I made my self , (super easy).

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[benscharlotte21]

Good stuff to know. I am thinking I will definitely lengthen the front. The fact that I have a long bed should theoretically help me out with the rear driveshaft so I might be all set with that but if not I can get that lengthened as well. Blazer looks beautiful by the way. What axles do you have in it?

 

[hirschdalechevy]

14 bolt full float , 4.56 yukon gears , detroit locker.
10 bolt , 4.56 motive gears , open , spicer x axle joints.