NP203, NP205, NP208 Differentiating Power to front and rear axles.

[HotRodPC]

I've got one of those adapters and I can't sell it

Also, that np205 will not work behind a TH400, it will only work behind a 465 with a 10 spline output. You can swap a 27 spline input into the 205, then it will work behind a stubby output th350 or a 700r4 with a spacer. A 32 spline input won't fit into the case because it uses a larger bearing.

10-4. I remember you had that adapter. If you remember I hit you up and asked if you still had it that I know a guy who needed it. By the time I got back to him, he got one from buying a complete SM465 and adapter for $50 here locally off CL. But, yep, I know you have one. I do try to keep a memory of who has what.

 

[bucket]

10-4. I remember you had that adapter. If you remember I hit you up and asked if you still had it that I know a guy who needed it. By the time I got back to him, he got one from buying a complete SM465 and adapter for $50 here locally off CL. But, yep, I know you have one. I do try to keep a memory of who has what.

Haha, I'm glad you can keep track... I forgot I had it until you brought the subject up

 

[79K10]

damn! I still cant find any diagrams on the np203 shifter... i guess for now im just gonna crawl under there and stick it in 4h and leave it there till i figure it out or find a diagram. I did get the distributor back it, only to discover the stock hold down bolt wont work on the edelbrock intake... looks like ill be needing some odds and ends

 

[79K10]

made some progress.... did the ujoints on the floor with two sockets and a bfh. not bad for my first time, seems way better now, not very much play or knocks when i twist the DS back and forth

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[HotRodPC]

made some progress.... did the ujoints on the floor with two sockets and a bfh. not bad for my first time, seems way better now, not very much play or knocks when i twist the DS back and forth

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Fuggin A cool !!! So the U joint was free and non binding in all directions? If there is a bind or a not so smooth spot, that means you smashed or broke a needle bearing. You did real well if you got it right with a socket and bfh. That's how I've done it many times, and I have sacrificed a couple needle bearings a couple times to the point I ended up having to buy another U joint. Which I save the rest of the parts to the one I jacked up, and they came in handy the next time I trashed a cup or needle bearings. Nowadays, I pretty much use my specified TAIWAN junk sockets for U Joint beaters for disassembly with the bfh, then use the same sockets as spacers but use a bench vise for assembly and have had better luck not damaging a needle bearing.

 

[HotRodPC]

I was about to **** a brick, then seen an recalled you're in Cali. I see the air tube on the Cat. Stranger to me, is that it doesn't appear to be a dual bed converter. MOST, but I guess not all, Cats with AIR injection are dual bed, causing reburn 2x. First just like any other converter does, then 2nd time again when air is injected. Which for those who don't know, a "smog pump" aka AIR pump is Air Injection Reactor, so those who get the idea the pump, pumps smog into itself, is not so. It pumps ambient air and injects it into the exhaust manifold just as the spent combustion exits the combustion chamber, to reburn what didn't burn, then it's reburnt again in the Cat, and reburnt even again with an AIR piped Cat, so that by the time it hits the tailpipe all the improper burnt raw fuels that add HC to environment are burnt off reducing Hydrocarbons and Oxides of Nitrogen. Everything else in check, should have the CO aka Carbon Monoxide reduced also. Wheewwwwwww, so with that long ass explanation, now you know what that "STUPID SMOG ****" does, and how it does it and why it does it. Really, it's not all that bad. But, for as old as that truck is, Nawww, I don't think I'd spend the cash to get it all working again, unless CA said I had to. If it's exempt, put a damn pipe in there and get rid of that cat.

 

[79K10]

yeah its smog exempt, thank god. im working on getting my headers (ive got some hedmans) and new pipes once i get some more money, or find something usable at the pick n pull. id really like true duals, i had them on my old long bed k10 and it sounded mean with flows and 2 1/4 pipes, no cats

yep no binding on the ujoints, i had to smack the housing once but then it was moving freely

 

[HotRodPC]

Not bitching or playing cop here. I'm glad to see those in Cali who are exempt, do cool **** to their rides, but moreso of an FYI, and Jim or Sky might be able to confirm or deny this, if the law has changed or not.

Even though those vehicles who are exempt from smog testing, can be ticketed for non emissions compliance. If you get pulled over by a ***** cop, and knows for a fact your year model truck was supposed to have a Cat, EGR, Smog Pump or whatever the case may be, and he looks and you don't have it, he can right you a ticket. It could be a fine ticket, or it coule be just a 'fix it" ticket and/or both which requires you to install the smog junk, then go to an inspection station, usually CHP, and an officer can visually check that you installed the parts and sign off on the ticket.

 

[79K10]

quick question: I put in a used np203, my old one had the conversion and this one does not. would it be like driving a 2wd if i just dont lock my front hubs or will i mess it up? do i just need to keep the hubs locked till i get a chance to swap out the part time kit?
thanks!

 

[crazy4offroad]

When you put it in park you'll have to remember to put it in Hi-Loc or the truck will roll away.

 

[HotRodPC]

He'll have to keep it in HI LOC if he has his front hubs unlocked or the truck won't move. It'll just spin the front driveshaft if the hubs are NOT locked. I'd say lock the hubs in and drive it as a full time 4x4. You'll either be pushed by the rear axle or pulled by the front, whichever has less traction, likely the rear. When you need 4x4, then Hi LOC or Low LOC it and be driven by both axles.

 

[79K10]

got it, thanks! but it wouldnt mess up the hubs if i drive around in 4hi loc with the hub unlocked right? just spin the shaft and waste power?

 

[Christian Nelson]

I used to drive with unlocked hubs in Hi Loc all the time on my old truck. And for that truck you got for free, Dude! DROP A MOTOR IN THERE, and DRIVE IT!!!

I'd love to have a body in that good of shape, and manual transmission.. Seriously, it's preety much everything I wish MY truck was. Mytruck has a rusted out floor, cab has sttled on the frame, automatic trany, (YUCK) and mismatched bed and cab.

You have a straight, rust free, matching body, with manual transmission.. SMall block GM engines are everywhere, you drop one in, you'd have a nice truck.

I just don't get why you'd part somethng like that out when you have a good title on it.

 

[HotRodPC]

I used to drive with unlocked hubs in Hi Loc all the time on my old truck. And for that truck you got for free, Dude! DROP A MOTOR IN THERE, and DRIVE IT!!!

I'd love to have a body in that good of shape, and manual transmission.. Seriously, it's preety much everything I wish MY truck was. Mytruck has a rusted out floor, cab has sttled on the frame, automatic trany, (YUCK) and mismatched bed and cab.

You have a straight, rust free, matching body, with manual transmission.. SMall block GM engines are everywhere, you drop one in, you'd have a nice truck.

I just don't get why you'd part somethng like that out when you have a good title on it.

What he said...

 

[89Suburban]

It will drive fine and won't hurt anything with unlocked hubs in HI LOC. I even ran front wheel drive without a rear shaft for a few weeks.