Heavy vibration when accellerating slowly

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Camatruder

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Hi guys, since I’ve been using this truck as a daily driver and doing a lot of highway driving this is starting to annoy me.

Completely stock 1991 K5 350 with automatic transmission

The short but very heavy vibration does not always occurs but if it does it’s always at following conditions : my normal crusing speed is 75 mph, but if i have to slow down a little, I gently release the gaspedal a bit to f.e. 65 or 70mph. if I then try to go back to 75 by depressing the gas pedal gently a very heavy and fast vibration occurs (sometimes). If I let go of the gaspedal or depress it firmly the vibration stops immediately. If I’m excellerating from a lower speed directly and firmly to 75 mph, the vibration almost never occurs.

Since this is only in 4th gear I’m thinking it has something to do with the transmissions lock up system.

Engine mounts, tranny mounts and drive shaft u-joints are all fairly new.

Still have to change all the suspension and steering bushing which are all very worn.

Any ideas on what and how to test ?
 

Oldrider

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No expert here but I think you are correct about the transmission. Not sure why it vibrates but sounds like any real movement of the gas pedal disengages the issue. I assume this model has a lock up torque converter?
 

Camatruder

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Yes, but don't know where the vacuum switch is located and if there is a delay valve or other stuff and how to test these things. Not an expert either :(

No vacuum leaks. Vacuum is ok.
 
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yevgenievich

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Lock up electronic. Unplug connector on the transmission and test drive. But sounds might also be unsettling in the suspension.

On mine, I traced the lockup wire and put a on-off-on toggle switch on the dash. Helps to trouble shoot the lockup. Position equal to auto lockup, no lockup, and manual lockup.
 

chengny

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Hi guys, since I’ve been using this truck as a daily driver and doing a lot of highway driving this is starting to annoy me.

Completely stock 1991 K5 350 with automatic transmission

The short but very heavy vibration does not always occurs but if it does it’s always at following conditions : my normal crusing speed is 75 mph, but if i have to slow down a little, I gently release the gaspedal a bit to f.e. 65 or 70mph. if I then try to go back to 75 by depressing the gas pedal gently a very heavy and fast vibration occurs (sometimes). If I let go of the gaspedal or depress it firmly the vibration stops immediately. If I’m excellerating from a lower speed directly and firmly to 75 mph, the vibration almost never occurs.

Since this is only in 4th gear I’m thinking it has something to do with the transmissions lock up system.

Engine mounts, tranny mounts and drive shaft u-joints are all fairly new.

Still have to change all the suspension and steering bushing which are all very worn.

Any ideas on what and how to test ?



There is a TBS on "Busy" TCC engagement that might apply to your issue:


91chevy28

GMC NUMBER: 92-7A-33


GROUP: 7A Automatic Transmission


DATE: December, 1991


CORPORATE NUMBER: 167105


SUBJECT: INTERMITTENT TRANSMISSION DOWNSHIFT, SLIP OR BUSY/CYCLING TCC (DIAGNOSIS)


MODELS: ALL YEARS, ALL LIGHT DUTY TRUCKS WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS


Some owners may comment that their vehicle is experiencing one or more of the following transmission conditions:

- Intermittent slipping.


- Intermittent downshift followed by an upshift, both with no apparent reason.


- Busyness or cycling of the TCC (torque converter clutch) at steady throttle conditions and level roadway.


The cooling fan operates when the thermostat on the fan clutch reaches a preset temperature. When this temperature is reached, the fan engages to draw additional air through the radiator and lower the engine temperature. When the cooling fan engages, noise increases and may sound very similar to an increase in engine RPM due to transmission downshift, slipping, or TCC cycling. When engine temperature lowers to a preset point, the fan clutch will disengage. When the cooling fan disengages, noise levels will decrease and may sound very similar to a decrease in engine RPM.

The type of concern described above requires further definition and the customer should be asked several questions:

- Is the situation more pronounced at higher vehicle loads or pulling a trailer?


- Do warmer ambient temperatures make the situation more pronounced as well?


If the customer's responses indicate that both of these conditions apply, and your observation of the vehicle confirms a properly operating vehicle, provide the customer the vehicle operating description included in this bulletin. Further action may not be necessary.

A service procedure follows if further definition is required.

SERVICE PROCEDURE:
When attempting to diagnose an intermittent transmission downshift, slip, or busy/cycling TCC:


1. Check fluid level and condition as outlined in section 7A of the appropriate service manual.


2. Test drive the vehicle under the conditions described by the customer (ambient temperature, engine coolant temperature, trailering, etc.). It may be necessary to partially restrict airflow to the radiator to raise engine coolant temperature to match customer conditions.


3. Monitor engine RPM and engine coolant temperature using a scan tool.


4. Listen for an apparent increase in engine RPM. If engine RPM sounds like it increases, check the scan tool RPM and coolant temperature readings.


If the noise increase is due to engagement of the fan, the engine RPM will not increase and engine coolant temperature will begin to decrease after the fan engages. As the fan runs, the engine coolant temperature will drop and the fan will disengage, reducing noise levels; engine RPM will not decrease. This cycle will repeat as engine coolant temperature again rises.

If the above procedure shows the condition to be cooling fan related, no further action is necessary. The vehicle should be returned to the customer and the condition explained.

If the above procedure shows the condition to be other than cooling fan related, refer to section 7A of the appropriate service manual for transmission diagnosis information.

INTERMITTENT TRANSMISSION DOWNSHIFT

All light duty trucks are equipped with a thermostatic engine cooling fan. This fan is designed to provide greater fuel efficiency and quieter operation than a standard fan. These benefits are possible through the addition of a thermostatic clutch to the fan drive.

When the engine is cool, the clutch allows the fan to "slip" or turn at a speed slower than the engine. By turning at a slower speed, the fan uses less horsepower, which saves fuel, and is quieter. When the engine temperature reaches a preset temperature, the fan "engages" and turns at the same speed as the engine.

"Engagement" of the fan provides increased airflow through the radiator to cool the engine. As the airflow increases, fan operation becomes clearly audible. This increase in noise can easily be mistaken for an increase in engine RPM and may be incorrectly blamed on the automatic transmission. When operating an unloaded vehicle in cooler ambient temperatures, the thermostatic clutch usually won't engage. However, if the vehicle is pulling a trailer, heavily loaded, or operated at high ambient temperatures, the thermostatic clutch may cycle on and off as the engine temperature rises and falls.

The sound of fan operation under the conditions described above is a sign that the cooling system on your vehicle is working correctly. Replacement or modification of cooling system or transmission parts will not change or reduce the noise level. Attempts to reduce this noise will only give you, the customer, a false sense of vehicle unreliability and the inconvenience of having your vehicle out of service.
 
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Camatruder

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Man, this is a great forum! Thanks for the info.
So here's my game plan :
I will first disconnect the TCC solenoid connector like Yevgenievich said and see if the issue remains. BTW, is it ok for the TC to do 50 miles of highway without the TCC lock up installed considering the continious slipping ?
If no vibration occurs without the TCC lock up connected, i will install the toggle switch and LED like in this schema and go from there.

You must be registered for see images attach


If there's still an issue without the TCC lock up connected, i will look further into the info that Chengnie provided, thank man!
I'm not really sure but i think that the problem usually only occurs after like 30 min of highway driving, so there could be an temperature issue. Engine temperature is always ok though, or at least my gauge is never above the middle. I have a RPM gauge installed instead of the big fuel gauge but i cannot recall monitoring it during the vibration. I'm always trying to keep the vibration ad short as possible by releasing or depressing the gas pedal. I also don't know if warmer or colder ambient temperature influences the frequency of the issue. With "thermostatic fan clutch" they do mean the viscous coupling, right? I know i should turn freely when engine is cold and should be locked when engine is warm but can it cause an unbalance under certain conditions due to the fluid inside that has aged and become thicker?
Thanks.
Rik
 
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chengny

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Man, this is a great forum! Thanks for the info.
So here's my game plan :
I will first disconnect the TCC solenoid connector like Yevgenievich said and see if the issue remains. BTW, is it ok for the TC to do 50 miles of highway without the TCC lock up installed considering the continious slipping ?
If no vibration occurs without the TCC lock up connected, i will install the toggle switch and LED like in this schema and go from there.

You must be registered for see images attach


If there's still an issue without the TCC lock up connected, i will look further into the info that Chengnie provided, thank man!
I'm not really sure but i think that the problem usually only occurs after like 30 min of highway driving, so there could be an temperature issue. Engine temperature is always ok though, or at least my gauge is never above the middle. I have a RPM gauge installed instead of the big fuel gauge but i cannot recall monitoring it during the vibration. I'm always trying to keep the vibration ad short as possible by releasing or depressing the gas pedal. I also don't know if warmer or colder ambient temperature influences the frequency of the issue. With "thermostatic fan clutch" they do mean the viscous coupling, right? I know i should turn freely when engine is cold and should be locked when engine is warm but can it cause an unbalance under certain conditions due to the fluid inside that has aged and become thicker?
Thanks.
Rik

I think a more conclusive initial diagnostic test would be to hot wire the TCC straight to battery power. The way I read it, the TSB is saying that the ECM disengages the TCC when the engine coolant drops below a certain temperature (it's 149 F - I checked). Force-feeding power to the TCC (and if your vibration goes away) will confirm proper operation of the clutch. If you do it the other way (denying power to the TCC), you won't know if it's because the clutch is disabled or if one of the sensors (i.e the coolant temp, VSS or brake switch) is intermittently failing to tell the ECM that it's cool to go to into overdrive.
 

Camatruder

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I thought that the "A" is always hot except for the brake witch (normal closed switch) and all other switches are downwards of the solenoid (going to mass - 0 V). So the only switch i would be bridging would be the brake witch ? You don't happen to have a schema on how the TCC is factory wired, would you?
 

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Probe the wire between ecm and the plug on the transmission. It is eaither brown or tan of some sort. It is a switched ground for tcc. Cut it behind the dash. Connect the transmission side to the middle terminal of the switch. The ecm side to one of the side terminals. And the remaining to ground. The switch position engages an opposite terminal. That would give you three modes. No tcc, auto tcc, and manual tcc.
 

Camatruder

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Ok, so i did the easiest test i could do which is disconnecting the TCC connector on the tranny. Drove it around town till the engine was at normal temperature and then headed for the highway. I could not create the vibration although doing many attemps. Then i reconnected the TCC at the tranny, headed back to the highway and could create the vibration multiple times but only when accelerating with the TCC locked up and being very easy on the gaspedal. This makes me think the TCC lock up systems really works fine: it stays on as long as there's enough vacuum and disengages when i release the gaspedal or depress it firmly (lower vacuum) or when i touch the brakes even the slightest.
So i think that some other part is having a hard time when accelerating (slowly) with the TCC locked up.
The viscous coupling works fine, it runs freely when engine is cold and runs at engine rpm when engine is warm. It stops immediately when i shut down the engine. I measered the temperature of the cooling water going to the radiater with an infra red meter pointed at the hose and it's always between 175 and 195 °F even after idling for a long time. Local ambient temperature is 75 °F.

I also checked my tacho when the vibration was present, the needle really does not move at all.

I'm not an engine expert but could it be the bearings of the crank shaft or other engine components not being able to handle the extra stress when accelerating with the TCC locked up.

I don't know how exactly the solenoid locks the TC up with the crank shaft mechanically but could it be the TC itself ?

Or maybe my totally worn suspensin bushings are the cullprit ? I'll have a 2 week vacation at Xmass so that's shedulded for then.

Very strange also that this vibration only occurs when locked up in 4th gear and never in a lower gear. Can that 4th gear oil pressure switch in the tranny be at fault?

@yevgenievich : i will install a toggle switch in the near future, i really enjoyed driving without the TCC lock up, much more responsive action.

@ Chengny : i will do your test too but i have to admit i don't fully understand (it's me :(). Is it f.e. not dangerous to drive with a hot wired TCC ?
 
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kenny78

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Look at the final conclusion of the thread: rattle in oil pan below 700 rpm. He head a bad plug wire that only exhibited during highway cruise.
 

Camatruder

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Well that's an interesting thread. Turns out that the direct drive can make some issue more noticeable where some converter slip can mask a lot. I thinking i'm having the same problem but what ?
 

chengny

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Look at the final conclusion of the thread: rattle in oil pan below 700 rpm. He head a bad plug wire that only exhibited during highway cruise.

What thread?
 

chengny

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I thought that the "A" is always hot except for the brake witch (normal closed switch) and all other switches are downwards of the solenoid (going to mass - 0 V). So the only switch i would be bridging would be the brake witch ? You don't happen to have a schema on how the TCC is factory wired, would you?

First just a general description of operation of the TCC system:

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A more detailed description of the TCC system used with your power plant:


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Wiring diagram for TCC used with a 5.7 gasoline engine:

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The rest may be more than you need but I was already in the Service Manual. The PCM inputs/outputs and how they interface with the TCC:


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