Heads and cam swap time?

[Honky Kong jr]

While trying to put the new timing set on I notice the threads in the crank are buggered. It requires a 1/2-13 thread chaser to fix them and the bolt is angled down... New crank is not an option not spending the money on it. So options are leave as is an hope it stays together, drill and tap to 9/16s or list the vortec heads, intake and headers on Craigslist and order parts for the 454. Ls swap is not an option.

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Do the treads clean up? Or the gone?

 

[4WDKC]

Do the treads clean up? Or the gone?

The 1/2 13 cleaned up, problem is balancer installers are 7/16 and 1/2-20 thread.

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[Honky Kong jr]

The 1/2 13 cleaned up, problem is balancer installers are 7/16 and 1/2-20 thread.

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Whacking them on is never a good idea yet it’s been done forever. I’d go get a piece of threaded rod and make my own using the bearing from the one you got.

 

[4WDKC]

Whacking them on is never a good idea yet it’s been done forever. I’d go get a piece of threaded rod and make my own using the bearing from the one you got.

Threaded rod/long bolt is my plan.

 

[kellerbm]

I have swaped engines in a day and had it running before the day is over. Just make sure you have everything you need to do this cam swap.. tools, hardware and gaskets. The biggest thing is to take your time and not rush into it. Make sure you double check yourself. A simple mistake can cost your hundreds or even a new motor. Take your time and have a few beers in the process.

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[4WDKC]

Forgot to mention the oil pump sump was int he bottom of the pan also, they filed down the sump to fit the pump without a problem and didnt tack weld it on.. At this point I could return the cam and parts I bought, list the vortec heads and intake on cl for what i have in them and be about 3/4 the cost of a 6.0 and 4l80.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

Forgot to mention the oil pump sump was int he bottom of the pan also, they filed down the sump to fit the pump without a problem and didnt tack weld it on.. At this point I could return the cam and parts I bought, list the vortec heads and intake on cl for what i have in them and be about 3/4 the cost of a 6.0 and 4l80.

Or less lol, but then you may uncover issues with them, like I have with mine. The only thing certain is uncertainty lol.

 

[4WDKC]

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[4WDKC]

Got most of it put back together, lacking ps pulley, exhaust, radiator, condenser primed the oil system sat and noticed while under it last night either the oil pan gasket or the rear main seal is leaking. Truck was a driveway stainer before but was hoping all this would fix it... Shoulda waited and swapped in the 454.

 

[4WDKC]

It runs but doesn't like to start, have to hold throttle open.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

It runs but doesn't like to start, have to hold throttle open.

Have a vacuum leak? Were you able to run the cam in? Or do you have a roller?

 

[4WDKC]

Have a vacuum leak? Were you able to run the cam in? Or do you have a roller?

Started running cam in for a bit and after it warmed it idled. Turned it off to let the garage air out and put tires on to roll out and it still wont start. Disconnected the injectors while trying to find timing and it tried to start, like its so rich with them disconnected it could start.

 

[rpcraft]

A little trick I use to get my timing back without having to throw a light on it. After getting the timing mark on the dampner to the zero on the tab for #1 firing position, put three marks on the side of the rotor and dizzy that line up about 1/4 to 1/2 inch apart, and then one across the top of the rotor and then hold the pencil in-line with that line on top of the rotor until the lead hits the firewall and put a mark on the firewall. That way you can get everything back where it was before pulling the dizzy and get the timing close enough for the cam break-in. Fine tune the timing after the break-in.

That's what I used in the past. After wards I could eyeball it all back together

 

[crazy4offroad]

You can also use a continuity tester between #1 spark plug wire hole in the cap and the center contact for the coil. Set your balancer at around 12 degrees BTDC (or whatever your cam calls for) and make sure it's on compression stroke (exhaust valve closed on #1 cylinder) then turn the distributor till you get continuity. As soon as it shows continuity stop turning it and tighten the clamp bolt a little. You'll be within a degree or 2 for fireup.

 

[4WDKC]

You can also use a continuity tester between #1 spark plug wire hole in the cap and the center contact for the coil. Set your balancer at around 12 degrees BTDC (or whatever your cam calls for) and make sure it's on compression stroke (exhaust valve closed on #1 cylinder) then turn the distributor till you get continuity. As soon as it shows continuity stop turning it and tighten the clamp bolt a little. You'll be within a degree or 2 for fireup.

Its dumping a ton of fuel, have to hold throttle open to get it to fire, rich as hell runs us out of the garage.