Electrical problems

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HotRodPC

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If those are HOT unfused terminals from the fuse block, its very possible you burnt the connections on the back side of the fuse block to those terminals. If Possible, You might have to take it off and solder it for those to work again.
 

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Is that bulb wire long enogh to make it to the ashtray? If I remember right, there is a dash light that also lights the ash tray.
 

Old77

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Let me diagnose this for you, Manbearpig. It's a mess. There. Done! :D
 

Manbearpig

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Welll **** :(
 

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Lol ended up being the horn fuse!!!

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Apparently those receptacles get their power off the horn fuse.

Win
 

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Phew!!!! :lol:
 

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Well that was an easy fix
 

HotRodPC

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Awesome !!! Apparently so. Good to know they are fused even and not a direct hot wire. So if you are running something that used alot of power off those terminals, then you shouldn't be afraid to bump the amp size of the fuse up a bit. I'd imagine its a pretty high amp already isn't it? Like maybe a 30??
 

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Think it was a 20
 

HotRodPC

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If whatever accessories you have hooked up there, pull a good amount of juice. You might wanna bump it up a tad to keep from blowing it. Just don't putting something there requires a 50amp or something big and you should't hurt the fuse block any. Anything requiring that much power needs to have its own hot all the way to the battery and its own inline fuse. Standard car stereo should be fine though. Maybe that arc you talked about it what blew it in the first place.
 

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If you have alot of accessories you might want to get one of those aftermarket fuse blocks, with 5 or 10 blade-type fuses so you can wire up your own circuits for a few things and lighten the load on others.
 

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The appearance of the device kept me away for alot of years. My dad uses a Fluke also, he showed me how to use them but I forgot. There is alot of settings and the few digits and weird symbols don't explain much. The horseshoe, how does that relate to continuity?!

hahaha, I'll remember this one. Next I go to check the resistance of something, I see how many horseshoes it has. The horseshoe reading doesn't have anything to do with continuity, well actually it does, but not like you are thinking I don't think. A continuity tester only give a yes or no answer. Yes the cirtcuit is complete, or no it is not. A horseshoe test measures the resistance of any certain circuit or part. So you must know what the tolerable specs are to know if something is good or not. For example you can horsehoe test an electronic ignition module at 2 differant points. If either one of those 2 points has to many horseshoes, then it needs to be replaced.
 

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hahaha, I'll remember this one. Next I go to check the resistance of something, I see how many horseshoes it has. The horseshoe reading doesn't have anything to do with continuity, well actually it does, but not like you are thinking I don't think. A continuity tester only give a yes or no answer. Yes the cirtcuit is complete, or no it is not. A horseshoe test measures the resistance of any certain circuit or part. So you must know what the tolerable specs are to know if something is good or not. For example you can horsehoe test an electronic ignition module at 2 differant points. If either one of those 2 points has to many horseshoes, then it needs to be replaced.

Testing Ohms of resistance is the same thing as a continuity test right? When I was checking my blower switch resistance it would show resistance until it went to 0 and I knew it was a compete circuit.
 

HotRodPC

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Testing Ohms of resistance is the same thing as a continuity test right? When I was checking my blower switch resistance it would show resistance until it went to 0 and I knew it was a compete circuit.
In that sense it can be considered a continuity tester I guess, but the purpose is test resistance. As explained a conitnuity tester only give a yes or no. Ohms test give you a measurment. When coil windings and brushes in motors start to wear the gap between the forces that make the motor operate become larger the resistance increases. Once the resistance reaches a certain point, the motor is considered bad and needing replacement. You can also measure resistance on sensors too. For example a Throttle position sensor should be XX resistance at part throttle, and a differant resistance at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) By the resistance measurement that is fed back to the ECM, that is how the ECM knows what to tell other components to do, like adjust or advance ignition timing or lean or richen the fuel mixture. If the TPS is givng bad resistance readings to the ECM, then the ECM is going to tell the other components to do the wrong things. The ECM also knows what range of resistance should be for each sensor, and once they get outside that range is when the Check Engine light will come on because of a thrown code. Also some sensors are checked using milivolts so its required to use a digital multimeter to test those. TPS may even be in volts, I just used it as an example. About the only time I use an ohm meter is when I am testing something to be good or bad as far as current draw, not to check for continuity. Many times in an ohms test you get that ever so bad infinate reading, then you know something is way out of range or a broken circuit somewhere.
 

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Hey Iman come on over and I will show you the hows whys and whatfors with a DVOM.
 

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