crate engine or rebuild original 350?

[farmerchris]

this guy book http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Y...&qid=1360645575&sr=8-10&keywords=david+vizard

 

[belay70]

That's the one I happen to have, but it's an older version.

 

[Driver4r]

A 350 with a set of 882 or 441 heads will run like a champ.
You wont be disapointed.

 

[farmerchris]

when i build a 350,i usually use a kit from here, http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductDetail.cfm?ProductId=148. usually rebuild mine.one thing that i always do is replace the main and head bolt,kit for them is cheap and high mileage motors using have some stretch on them,the ARP kits are cheap,so is the house brand on them which is usually made by ARP.common failure point on these engine.usually have the motor hot tanked and magnafluxed to make sure it rebuildable.since they have the tools have them check the bore for roundness and re bore if necessary.have them check the crank for straightness and concentric to the journal.check the journals and only polish if needed.if everything checks out,reassemble with new bearings and gaskets.usually get a valve job on the heads.have then check for straightness.a sheet of glass or other straight surface you can check to see if your pushrods are straight and can be reused.a camshaft is cheap,buy a kit with lifters,adds performance to a stock engine,get torque type cam for a heavy truck for pulling.usually go through cam manufacturer website for the engine i got to get specs.reason for hydraulic lifter is to set them once and forget about it,but they need to full of oil pumped up(running)to be set to the proper lash.there is a cold setting to get them started.short note on some of the high point that i do to rebuild one of these motors.

 

[HotRodPC]

This is an old book. It was my bible back in the day. Honestly, it's old school technology now, especially when talking about blocks and heads since this was from the 80's.

http://www.amazon.com/How-Hotrod-Sm...=1360659005&sr=8-9&keywords=small+block+chevy


My SIL build a 350 a couple years ago and he used this book.
http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Y...=1360659005&sr=8-1&keywords=small+block+chevy

There are a few different books on Amazon, all under $20. Just look them over, read the reviews and pick one. All you're really getting the book for is a confidence builder. I take alot of knowledge for granted many times, but anyone will still get something out of these books, I don't care how experienced you are, you will alaways find some tips or tricks in all of them.

 

[belay70]

Seems almost every kit out there offers new pistons - everyone replaces pistons? No one reuses them? My lifters look fine, my pistons look fine, no abnormal wear other than the orange-brown varnish on every surface not exposed to some sort of contact.

 

[HotRodPC]

Seems almost every kit out there offers new pistons - everyone replaces pistons? No one reuses them? My lifters look fine, my pistons look fine, no abnormal wear other than the orange-brown varnish on every surface not exposed to some sort of contact.

Look for a Re Ring Kit instead of a Rebuild Kit. Should include Rings, main and rod bearings, and gasket set. Then you'll want to add a timing chain set for sure, and possibly a new oil pump.

 

[belay70]

Oh, I shouldve mentioned my pistons are completely sooty black on the top, but I assume that can be cleaned off?

 

[belay70]

Look for a Re Ring Kit instead of a Rebuild Kit. Should include Rings, main and rod bearings, and gasket set. Then you'll want to add a timing chain set for sure, and possibly a new oil pump.

Yeah, Im thinking that too. Thanks HotRod. BTW - found your headliner thread, and that looks great! Hell, your truck looks great! Id say Im going for that kind of look. You have a nice paintjob and kept things original from what I can tell. Very nice.

 

[Driver4r]

Lol, HR, your talking about things being considered oldschool now. My block is out of a 70Chevelle and the 441 heads are off of an 70 impalla. Those were both made way befor my time, But i would rather run oldschool than a newer block and have problems(not saying there is). I just trust the older stuff way more.

 

[HotRodPC]

Lol, HR, your talking about things being considered oldschool now. My block is out of a 70Chevelle and the 441 heads are off of an 70 impalla. Those were both made way befor my time, But i would rather run oldschool than a newer block and have problems(not saying there is). I just trust the older stuff way more.

Doesn't matter. Things like Vortec heads didn't exist when this book was printed so it's going to say 441's are the best thing since sliced bread, and it's not true. It's also not going to list 1 pc rear main seal motors IIRC.

 

[bloodrunner83]

It took me about 1500 to rebuild my 350 and it could have cost me less, but I got my heads and my block magnafluxed. It's way cheaper to build your own engine, but If u never built a performance engine before, I would try to find someone who has experience. Luckily my dads buddy builds pull truck motors and let me put mine together under his guidance!

 

[HotRodPC]

I guess that depends all on what you do in your engine rebuild. Is that including a new bore and new pistons? All new valve guides or knurling? Have the Con Rods Reconned? I good thorough engine build even done yourself is tough to get under $1500 these days. At least the way I do one anyway. You can spend a chunk of change on added machine work and it does pay off in the end, or can be considered insurance.

Now you can get by with a Re Ring and valve job for under $1000 usually, but it'll only be good for about half the life in most cases.

 

[Old77]

When I was doing the motor in my truck I priced out a rebuild of a 350 vs a crate motor and with all the parts and stuff we needed for the rebuild of a 350 it came out to be over $2k and that was doing it ourselves. This is why we went with the crate motor because the savings of a rebuild wasn't worth it compared to what you get with a crate motor along with saving you a boat load of time.

Now, with that said I wouldn't mind building one from scratch now and build it up while I drove what I got but at the time the crappy 305 was just slightly better than a paper weight so a solution needed to happen. In the end there are pros and cons to either route. The other good thing about a good crate motor is the warranty that comes with it.

 

[HotRodPC]

When I was doing the motor in my truck I priced out a rebuild of a 350 vs a crate motor and with all the parts and stuff we needed for the rebuild of a 350 it came out to be over $2k and that was doing it ourselves. This is why we went with the crate motor because the savings of a rebuild wasn't worth it compared to what you get with a crate motor along with saving you a boat load of time.

Now, with that said I wouldn't mind building one from scratch now and build it up while I drove what I got but at the time the crappy 305 was just slightly better than a paper weight so a solution needed to happen. In the end there are pros and cons to either route. The other good thing about a good crate motor is the warranty that comes with it.

Not to mention, with a crate, you get some kind of a warranty, build your own no warranty.

I love building motors, it's just not cost effective now days most of the time. And if you don't have a core, for damn sure it's more cost effective.

Anything past a Re Ring job w valve job pretty much need to go crate these days. There are exceptions to the rules though.