Body lift

[Ypsik10]

Looking to make cheap body lift cab only my truck has a custom flatbed .. What to use ? Hockey pucks? How far can I go without other problems? Only reason for this is I am making a custom winch mount behind the bumper need an inch or two.. Will I run into steering column/ shift linkage issues?

 

[Honky Kong jr]

I used some 3" aluminum round stock and cut it in to 2" wafers on top of the factory body mounts with poly inserts.

 

[Ypsik10]

I used some 3" aluminum round stock and cut it in to 2" wafers on top of the factory body mounts with poly inserts.

Any issues with this setup at 3" inches? Any other modifications needed?

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Any issues with this setup at 3" inches? Any other modifications needed?

Mine are 2" thick 3" diameter. With 6" suspension lift I only did 2" body to have room for my exhaust to fit over the frame, make it easier if I have to pull the trans and make the fuel tank swap easier. Don't forget how ever high your body lift is that's how high you gotta lift the bumper too because gap looks like hell.

 

[theblindchicken]

With the 2" or higher, you will need to extend the gear shift linkage between the steering column and the transmission. Make sure to loosen it prior to raising the body, otherwise you'll blow apart the shift tube inside the column and be in the same predicament that I'm in with finding a replacement column.

2" body lift on poly bushings puts the front valence lip almost level with the top of the stock bumper.

You'll also have to modify the fan shroud, since the fan will be 2-3" too low and will more than contact the shroud. You'll either have to go with electric fans, cut the shroud but deal with loss of air flow, or drop the radiator to match the engine.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

With the 2" or higher, you will need to extend the gear shift linkage between the steering column and the transmission. Make sure to loosen it prior to raising the body, otherwise you'll blow apart the shift tube inside the column and be in the same predicament that I'm in with finding a replacement column.

2" body lift on poly bushings puts the front valence lip almost level with the top of the stock bumper.

You'll also have to modify the fan shroud, since the fan will be 2-3" too low and will more than contact the shroud. You'll either have to go with electric fans, cut the shroud but deal with loss of air flow, or drop the radiator to match the engine.

I'm using a floor mounted shifter an I made a spacer for the bumper and reworked the brackets. Looks like normal. The rear bumper(Blazer) matches the body lift as well I just made all new mounts for it.

 

[theblindchicken]

I'm using a floor mounted shifter an I made a spacer for the bumper and reworked the brackets. Looks like normal. The rear bumper(Blazer) matches the body lift as well I just made all new mounts for it.

Cable shifter instead of hard linkage?

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Cable shifter instead of hard linkage?

For the trans yes and I will have to modify the TC linkage.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Cable shifter instead of hard linkage?

That's what I'm gonna do with my body lift, just ditch the factory junk and install a cable ratchet shifter.

 

[shiftpro]

You can make your own lift pucks or buy them. I wouldn't ever go more than 1". If you actually work your truck, like off roading, the cab will soon enough begin to squirm around on the lift blocks and well, you don't want that.
Hockey pucks eventually crack, and then they fall out... and that won't make you happy either.

 

[highdesertrange]

I agree with shiftpro 1 inch max for a body lift. if you are making your own winch mount it seems to me you could design it without needing a bodylift. highdesertranger