Affordable engine replacement?

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Pender1

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He can also run the stock Chevrolet Performance 10067353 with a dual plane manifold and headers, and not replace the cam, for $1500. That nets 250 hp and 350 lbft. Not quite as beefy a torque curve -- not as high, nor at as low an rpm -- as the 12-235-2 cam, but then he wouldn't void the warranty.

The only big mistake would be spending $500+ more for the Chevrolet Performance 12499529 350/290 engine. That is a crate engine with the cam from a high-compression engine of the late 60s in the 10067353 low-compression crate engine. Big mismatch. It has no stones at low rpm, and is a terrible choice for a truck. 50-90 time for burning up the two-lanes is awesome, but from a stop it helps if you get out and push. BTDT.


Thanks for all the info. It may be all for nothing now though. My truck now looks like this. Gonna need a lot more than a motor if it's worth salvaging. Oh well.
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Camar068

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ouch! Hopefully everyone is OK.
 

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ouch! Hopefully everyone is OK.

Me and my brother were riding together and the car behind me was a guy and his pregnant wife. Luckily nobody got hurt. Just a lot of disappointment. I can't count the hours I have invested in this truck at this point.
 

Camar068

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Make sure you go to the ER for a visit to make sure both of you are fine. Something may have happened and you don't feel it because of the adrenaline.
 

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HOLY **** wtf happened?b Glad you and others are OK but that's a heck of a bummer.
 

Pender1

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HOLY **** wtf happened?b Glad you and others are OK but that's a heck of a bummer.

I was #3 of 5 in a line of wrecks. Someone locked their brakes.
 

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Oh man! I got into reading this thread heavily as I'm looking for the same thing you were. I thought I had the stock 305 in my 83 c10, turns out I have a 1969 307 backed by a 700r4 and I assume the stock 3.08 gears. I'm not looking for a race engine, but I want something that gets up and goes when I want it to. It's my daily driver and will be for the foreseeable future. Right now everything runs and drives fine, but I'd like to start to upgrade it. Do I start with my engine and work back or start with gears and work forward? Also pretty new to this. Didn't mean to jack your thread.

Glad no one was hurt!


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Oh man! I got into reading this thread heavily as I'm looking for the same thing you were. I thought I had the stock 305 in my 83 c10, turns out I have a 1969 307 backed by a 700r4 and I assume the stock 3.08 gears. I'm not looking for a race engine, but I want something that gets up and goes when I want it to. It's my daily driver and will be for the foreseeable future. Right now everything runs and drives fine, but I'd like to start to upgrade it. Do I start with my engine and work back or start with gears and work forward? Also pretty new to this. Didn't mean to jack your thread.

Glad no one was hurt!


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I'd start with the motor. That gearing is fairly tall, but if you're on a budget, you might could do an engine "wake up" and see how you like it. The gearing is even taller in my Caprice, and I'm just gonna build a woken up 305 that my brother gave me with a HO 601 head port and polish, mild cam, performer intake, headers, and AIR delete. Like you, it was a DD build. I'm not looking for a hot rod, but I want something that's respectable and not gutless. Is that the stock tranny? If so, I'd suggest getting it beefed up. Those first few years of 700R4 were wimpy as hell. They didn't start being made well till about '87-'88, but they did improve every year until the end. Are you trying to upgrade the 307 or the whole vehicle? Did they make a 307 in 1969? I thought they made them from '80 to '90, and that's it. Chevy parts are easier to acquire for a better price than Oldsmobile. A Chevy 350 would be the cheapest, most effective way to reach your objective. Not to mention the plethora of upgrade options. A Small Block Oldsmobile uses an open main webbing design so its strength pales in comparison to a four bolt main or even two bolt main 350. Did you see the engine that I built earlier in the thread? I took that it was something not desired by the OP, but it's something to consider. Completely dirt cheap, and it's a beautiful motor.
Just checked. They only made the 307 in the 80's.
 
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DarthKnight84

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I'd start with the motor. That gearing is fairly tall, but if you're on a budget, you might could do an engine "wake up" and see how you like it. The gearing is even taller in my Caprice, and I'm just gonna build a woken up 305 that my brother gave me with a HO 601 head port and polish, mild cam, performer intake, headers, and AIR delete. Like you, it was a DD build. I'm not looking for a hot rod, but I want something that's respectable and not gutless. Is that the stock tranny? If so, I'd suggest getting it beefed up. Those first few years of 700R4 were wimpy as hell. They didn't start being made well till about '87-'88, but they did improve every year until the end. Are you trying to upgrade the 307 or the whole vehicle? Did they make a 307 in 1969? I thought they made them from '80 to '90, and that's it. Chevy parts are easier to acquire for a better price than Oldsmobile. A Chevy 350 would be the cheapest, most effective way to reach your objective. Not to mention the plethora of upgrade options. A Small Block Oldsmobile uses an open main webbing design so its strength pales in comparison to a four bolt main or even two bolt main 350. Did you see the engine that I built earlier in the thread? I took that it was something not desired by the OP, but it's something to consider. Completely dirt cheap, and it's a beautiful motor.



I have no idea if it is the stock trans or not. Guy who sold it to me said it was all original. I then found out the engine wasn't original so I can't believe anything he said now. I am trying to resto mod the whole truck over time. I looked up the stamped serial numbers on the engine and it came back as the 1969 307. It makes sense since the guy took off the HEI and put on the old cap and rotor. Anyway, yeah a rebuild and shift kit were in the plans for the trans. I'd love to get the engine you posted. Or one of the others people talked about. I guess no matter what way I look at it I'm going to need about $2000 for an engine and then get the trans rebuilt and beefed, I'm guessing around $1500 and then the rear gears up to a 3:73 (good for a daily driver? I do have to go about 80mph anytime I want to drive anywhere other than work). I'm unsure of what I need to buy to get it to be posi and upgraded though.


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1987 GMC Jimmy

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I have no idea if it is the stock trans or not. Guy who sold it to me said it was all original. I then found out the engine wasn't original so I can't believe anything he said now. I am trying to resto mod the whole truck over time. I looked up the stamped serial numbers on the engine and it came back as the 1969 307. It makes sense since the guy took off the HEI and put on the old cap and rotor. Anyway, yeah a rebuild and shift kit were in the plans for the trans. I'd love to get the engine you posted. Or one of the others people talked about. I guess no matter what way I look at it I'm going to need about $2000 for an engine and then get the trans rebuilt and beefed, I'm guessing around $1500 and then the rear gears up to a 3:73 (good for a daily driver? I do have to go about 80mph anytime I want to drive anywhere other than work). I'm unsure of what I need to buy to get it to be posi and upgraded though.


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Oh, crap. It's probably an SBC 307. They only made them for about five or six years in the late sixties and early seventies. I was thinking Oldsmobile because that was a prevalent engine in the 80's, but there was a Chevy 307. It's like a combination of 283 and 327 components. You could spice that one up if you wanted to, and it wouldn't tear ass down the highway, but it would be responsive and respectable. Going the 350 route, I'd say about $2000 for the engine and tranny if you scavenge for those various engine components, build it, install it, and handle the R&R for the transmission part and just allow them to rebuild it on the bench and give it back to you. More for anything extra that a mechanic touches. It's not bad, but it doesn't come cheap. You could possibly get some 601 or 416 HO 305 heads and have them worked, get a mild cam from Summit, get some headers, convert back to HEI, and get a performer aluminum intake. That would run you about a grand, more or less (head work can get pricey). If you're set on gearing, I'd say 3.73 is a goldilocks ratio maybe something a smidge taller if you want it to perform more comfortably on the highway. I can run 85 in my Caprice just fine with 2.78 gears, but I can understand wanting more. I know nothing about positraction so I'll refrain from delving.
 

DarthKnight84

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Oh, crap. It's probably an SBC 307. They only made them for about five or six years in the late sixties and early seventies. I was thinking Oldsmobile because that was a prevalent engine in the 80's, but there was a Chevy 307. It's like a combination of 283 and 327 components. You could spice that one up if you wanted to, and it wouldn't tear ass down the highway, but it would be responsive and respectable. Going the 350 route, I'd say about $2000 for the engine and tranny if you scavenge for those various engine components, build it, install it, and handle the R&R for the transmission part and just allow them to rebuild it on the bench and give it back to you. More for anything extra that a mechanic touches. It's not bad, but it doesn't come cheap. You could possibly get some 601 or 416 HO 305 heads and have them worked, get a mild cam from Summit, get some headers, convert back to HEI, and get a performer aluminum intake. That would run you about a grand, more or less (head work can get pricey). If you're set on gearing, I'd say 3.73 is a goldilocks ratio maybe something a smidge taller if you want it to perform more comfortably on the highway. I can run 85 in my Caprice just fine with 2.78 gears, but I can understand wanting more. I know nothing about positraction so I'll refrain from delving.



I think I definitely want to go to a 350, 5.7 or eventually an ls swap. I know the LS will be very pricey so that may never happen. I have a pretty good mechanical knowledge. I would be able to do most of the work myself I think. I was going to try the rebuild and shift kit installation myself. I know I could swap and engine in and be fine. I'd definitely upgrade the starting system too. I already own a brand new edelbrock torquer 2 intake I got a while back and just hung on to it. So what would you recommend on gears of not the 3:73?


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1987 GMC Jimmy

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I think the only intermediate between 3.08 and 3.73 is 3.42, but if you're set on lowering your ratio, I wouldn't do more than 3.73. Is it just the stock Corporate 10 Bolt? Me, I'd see how I liked it with what it's got because shorter gears are gonna raise your highway RPMs. Then I'd move to a more intermediate gear ratio. That 350 in the picture is a 1971 four bolt main unit. It has a moderate cam (I don't know the lift and duration), Edelbrock RPM performer intake, HEI, headers, a slightly amped up divorced choke Quadrajet and some late sixties stock flow double hump heads (I forgot the casting on them). Just shop around locally and see what you find Vortec 350 is an expensive route, but anything else should be alright.
 

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Thanks for all your help and input man! Looks like I'll start looking for engine and rebuild/shift kits!


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Really hard to beat the basic GM Goodwrench 350 #10067353 for $1499 at Jegs including shipping. I have installed at least four of them over the years, and each one has pleasantly surprised its owner, even with the stock cam. Typically the engines have run a low rise intake manifold like Weiand Street Warrior or Edelbrock Performer or Performer EPS with 500-600 cfm carbs.

I personally wouldn't mess with the cam (and warranty) unless your truck has lower gears, and/or you want to rev it higher than 4500 RPM or so. I know cam technology has come a long way since I put an Edelbrock 204/214 cam in that very engine, but in a 1/2 ton truck with 3.08 gears and 29" tires, it gave up just a bit of torque and throttle response at low RPMs. Probably because the intake valve closed later than on the stock cam, reducing the already LOW cylinder pressure. But it did rev approx 500 RPM higher before it gave up.

Keep in mind this crate engine is set up for a conventional intake manifold, that is to say the center intake manifold bolts holes (2 per side) are at the same angle as the outer holes.

It is also configured for both left and right dipsticks, and you may have to buy a dipstick and housing. The engine comes with a bag containing two steel plugs, and you'll use one to plug the hole that you don't use. (Yeah, two different diameters -- go figure.)
 

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