VGG 1776 Clear vs Poppy’s Glossed Out Clear

[HUFFINCOSMOLINE]

Anyone know the difference between these products? I know they are both made by Poppy’s, but can’t find much information or pictures comparing the two clear coats final finish. Wanting something that is durable that can be sprayed, buffed, and polished and looks more like a factory clear coat. I don’t like the Satin and Matte finishes of Poppy’s clear. Anyone that has used either product please give your .02 cents and follow up with pics.

Thanks

 

[TotalyHucked]

I'll say this. No way in hell I'd use Poppy's clear of any kind/version. Lots of people that have had it lift off and bring the paint with it. Or it doesn't lay down nice and tiger stripes and then you have to sand it off to start again.

IF...big if there...If I were to ever clearcoat another truck, I'd just go to my local bodyshop supply store and get some 2k clear and have it sprayed.

I will also throw this in there, my '85 is clearcoated. I will never again buy a patina'd clearcoated truck again or do one myself. The clear is lifting and blowing off in chunks in several places and spreading more and more each year. Clear just doesn't stick well to that old paint.

The next patina truck I do will get buffed to within an inch of it's lift and ceramic coated/waxed/kept up.

 

[HUFFINCOSMOLINE]

I appreciate that information. Definitely don’t want anything lifting on me. Clear is not all that bad on my truck. Welp, Guess I will be doing some compounding and glaze followed up with a ceramic coat. I appreciate the low down on it.

 

[TotalyHucked]

Yeah, I went down the wormhole a couple years back researching this stuff when my clear started flaking off. I was hoping to be able to spray on/wipe on just the areas I was having issues with and seal it back up. Then I found lots and lots of horror stories. I do like the look on certain trucks but it's such a shame when it starts to come up, I tell everybody I can about what I found.

Sometimes it's ok for a few years and sometimes it doesn't even last 6mo before there's issues. It's just not worth the risk if the truck is pretty nice overall IMO

 

[Sad Sack]

2K and spray like Huck said.

 

[Grit dog]

I appreciate that information. Definitely don’t want anything lifting on me. Clear is not all that bad on my truck. Welp, Guess I will be doing some compounding and glaze followed up with a ceramic coat. I appreciate the low down on it.

If your rig is already re-painted (you said clear and squares need before 2 stage OE paint jobs) and it’s actually clear coated and not failing (peeling or just cooked and gone) then IMo these wax on wax off clear coat products are just ruining what you already have.

 

[Grit dog]

Yeah, I went down the wormhole a couple years back researching this stuff when my clear started flaking off. I was hoping to be able to spray on/wipe on just the areas I was having issues with and seal it back up. Then I found lots and lots of horror stories. I do like the look on certain trucks but it's such a shame when it starts to come up, I tell everybody I can about what I found.

Sometimes it's ok for a few years and sometimes it doesn't even last 6mo before there's issues. It's just not worth the risk if the truck is pretty nice overall IMO

I think a lot has to do with environmental/ UV exposure. Slap that crap on something that is never out in the sun except when being driven occasionally and it probably last a long time. Park it in the AZ sun in the spring with a fresh patina sauce on it, it’ll be dust by Labor Day.

 

[Grit dog]

Not for @HUFFINCOSMOLINE application but I’ve seen, read, heard and have yet to try Zep high traffic floor polish. It builds on the surface and seems similar to the wipe on patina clears.
A lot of use on oxidized gel coat and most with success, some complain about it peeling or yellowing but mostly good reviews on RVs.
I have some faded red trim on one of my trailers that I’m gonna test it on one of these days….someday.
Way cheaper than the patina coating.
Food for thought.

 

[Burkee1483]

I’ve also been looking at the VGG wipe on clear/ non matte.

I would buff and polish my truck due to it being horribly oxidized. I’m afraid thou to lose the hand painted letter down the bed sides and on the doors.

I would also appreciate some insight lol

 

[Sad Sack]

Some use linseed oil

 

[Grit dog]

I’ve also been looking at the VGG wipe on clear/ non matte.

I would buff and polish my truck due to it being horribly oxidized. I’m afraid thou to lose the hand painted letter down the bed sides and on the doors.

I would also appreciate some insight lol

You certainly don’t wan to lose that.
Try a little by hand. If that’s original lacquer it’s extremely soft probably softer / thinner than the painted letters they look newer?
Polishing compound not rubbing compound. Even glaze or swirl remover if polishing compound is too harsh.
Also that will tell you if the paint will even shine up at all. My ‘74 jeep, the original paint is still shiny but the hood and a fender were repaired and repainted probably 40 years ago or whatever. And that paint is dull and will not polish up at all.
Nice thing about patina. If you burn thru a spot, who cares, that’s what patina is.

 

[Burkee1483]

You certainly don’t wan to lose that.
Try a little by hand. If that’s original lacquer it’s extremely soft probably softer / thinner than the painted letters they look newer?
Polishing compound not rubbing compound. Even glaze or swirl remover if polishing compound is too harsh.
Also that will tell you if the paint will even shine up at all. My ‘74 jeep, the original paint is still shiny but the hood and a fender were repaired and repainted probably 40 years ago or whatever. And that paint is dull and will not polish up at all.
Nice thing about patina. If you burn thru a spot, who cares, that’s what patina is.

The sun damage on the drivers side it all looks super faded. I wish I knew what it had been painted with. I was told by the guy I bought it off of. It was period correct as the previous owner told em it was originally done because it was a parts hauler truck for a dealership in NC.

That sounds great n all but who knows if it’s true lol

I’ll have to try some by hand on the bed and see how it turns out. I’m the worst with cleaning so I was hoping to find a way to clean it up and keep it shiney lol

 

[Grit dog]

Linseed oil mix, imo. Doesn’t last as long but won’t peel or be weird.
I’ve never done it except on cars I’d flip with chitty paint back in the day so idk if it lasts a week or a year. Directly proportional to time out in the sun though.

 

[Sad Sack]

Linseed oil mix, imo. Doesn’t last as long but won’t peel or be weird.
I’ve never done it except on cars I’d flip with chitty paint back in the day so idk if it lasts a week or a year. Directly proportional to time out in the sun though.

Linseed works great, cheap, easy and can be removed easily enough if body work is required. When shine fades wipe down again!

 

[Rustisbest]

If its got ANY mold or mildew on it will grow underneath/into the linseed oil or penetrol if you put it on there. Even if you think you got it all removed it might come back like it did on mine. They both stay sticky for a couple days so do it inside otherwise you'll have plenty of dirt, bugs and pollen stuck to it. Just my experience with it, and I havent tried any of the other wipe on products mentioned in the OP's post .

After the whole Penetrol/linseed oil experiments I think buffing them out is the way to go. I used Meguiars #67 and and DA polisher but its single stage paint. Topped it with Turtle Wax's Ceramic paste wax. Made it "good enough" without a lot of time involved