Tank selector

[Silver Square]

Are there any modern tank selector valves that are more reliable than the originals? Or any common upgrade that can be done while still retaining the stock switch and wiring, and fuel gauge functionality? Or would I be better off just getting a 40 gallon suburban tank for it?

 

[Ricko1966]

Hmm my 40 year old tank selector still works fine,so I'd say reliability isn't a problem. I'd say fix what's wrong with OE parts and motor on.

 

[Grit dog]

I’d say reliability isn’t really an issue. The only issue is there’s one type that is not made anymore from the earlier trucks. You can search and find which.
There are basically 3 OE types and the selector switch is different between a couple. Again, most parts are readily available, and/or aftermarket.
Gotta know why you have or need to buy new, not universal thru the years.

 

[Broken85]

Suburban tanks are good, but Way more work switching to a single 40 from dual tanks instead of just swapping the valve if it’s bad and you lose your spare tire mount. Just about every auto part store and Amazon sells the correct 6 port Pollak valve. They are all under $100, last one I bought was like $60.

Mine lasted 40 years and wasn’t bad. I just replaced it when I did the two tanks and switched to fuel injection because it was the only original part left in the fuel system so why not.

 

[75gmck25]

The OP has a ‘77, which probably has the old 6 port solenoid with a single power terminal. These are no longer available. I have been lucky, and so far mine continues to work.

You can replace it with the newer Pollak solenoid and dash switch that has a wide multi-terminal electrical plug, but it does take some rewiring. I haven’t looked for a while but I think someone once posted the instructions for making the switch.

 

[Silver Square]

Mine still works, but I'm restoring the truck, and I don't want any problems out of it for another 50 years, so I figure now is the time to upgrade anything. The rubber fuel hoses coming off of it are all dry rotted, so I'll have to replace those anyway. I'd always heard that the factory tank selector valves were unreliable, but if they are acually good, I'll just leave it there. I'll be using ethanol free gas whenever possible to help it live longer.

Question... if the tank selector valve dies, will the truck die too, or will it continue to pull fuel from whatever tank it's set to until it's empty? Really don't want to get stranded.

 

[Ricko1966]

Mine still works, but I'm restoring the truck, and I don't want any problems out of it for another 50 years, so I figure now is the time to upgrade anything. The rubber fuel hoses coming off of it are all dry rotted, so I'll have to replace those anyway. I'd always heard that the factory tank selector valves were unreliable, but if they are acually good, I'll just leave it there. I'll be using ethanol free gas whenever possible to help it live longer.

Question... if the tank selector valve dies, will the truck die too, or will it continue to pull fuel from whatever tank it's set to until it's empty? Really don't want to get stranded.

Depends on how it fails. Usually yes it will default to one tank,but sometimes the develop a leak and depending on the severity you may or may not drive it home. Sometimes the leak allows them to suck air instead of fuel. Personally I wouldn't worry about it,there are millions or have been millions of these trucks,and not huge numbers of people stuck due to tank switch failures. Your bigger chance would be a flat tire,a rod through the block a transmission,a fuel pump,etc.etc

 

[75gmck25]

The old single wire valves move/default to the main tank if they lose power, so it’s always good to keep it at least 1/2 tank in the main. I believe the newer valves have a solenoid inside that stays in its last position, so they should stay on whatever tank you last used.