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Starter with a mind of its own

Discussion in 'Electrical & Audio' started by TONKA, Jan 7, 2020.

  1. TONKA

    TONKA Junior Member

    Posts:
    26
    Likes Received:
    6
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2019
    Location:
    st Paul Minnesota
    First Name:
    Preston
    Truck Year:
    1983
    Truck Model:
    K20
    Engine Size:
    350
    @illmanners this helps a lot I think the first couple starters were just chewed up due to improper mounting but the last has just been poor quality parts from AutoZone.
     
    Snoots likes this.
  2. clendon1

    clendon1 Junior Member

    Posts:
    20
    Likes Received:
    19
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2017
    Location:
    Polk City FL
    First Name:
    Butch
    Truck Year:
    1976
    Truck Model:
    c10 stepside
    Engine Size:
    468 BB
    Take the starter to a starter / alternator rebuilder and have him put in good ( not Chinese ) parts and then bench test it, most starters that come from parts stores are just slapped together with inferior parts.
     
    Snoots likes this.
  3. illmanners

    illmanners Junior Member

    Age:
    73
    Posts:
    13
    Likes Received:
    16
    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2016
    Location:
    Idaho
    First Name:
    Phil
    Truck Year:
    1985
    Truck Model:
    C-10
    Engine Size:
    350
    Going back to your original statement, lets try to analyze the issue step by step. The starter worked originally but not well and not all of the time as it was mis-aligned? (Or was the mis-alignment issue with one or more of the previous starters?) If the starter you have now is in fact, one you had mis-alignment issues with, then during that mis-alignment period, you experiences undue wear on both the starter drive and the flexplate/flywheel ring-gear. Symptoms of wear on both the starter drive and the ring-gear are what you are experiencing now. First, disconnect the negative battery cable so no power can get to the starter. Pull the starter off and inspect the starter drive for gear wear. Next, remove the flywheel cover under the vehicle and inspect the flexplate/flywheel ring gear for undue wear, chipped or missing teeth. If both the drive and the ring-gear are okay, take the starter in to Autozone (or where you bought it,) and have them bench test it, paying close attention to how many amps it's pulling when the starter drive starts to spin. On the bench, the starter should draw 80 to 150 amps. (When bolted to the engine, fully charged battery, good state of tune,) should draw no more than 250. More than 150 or so on the bench or more than 250 on the car, and there is a starter problem. (pretty sure you are going to end up with a new starter.) So. new starter in hand, pick up new knurled starter bolts (could be either 2 or 3 of them, depending on which starter you have,) again making sure that both the starter and engine block mounting surfaces are perfectly clean, (I even take a wire brush to the mounting areas on both and remove the factory or rebuilders paint,) bolt starter up to exactly 35 Lbs torque. Hope that helps..Phil
     
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  4. Reinovator

    Reinovator Member

    Posts:
    30
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    21
    Joined:
    Jul 4, 2015
    Location:
    N arizona
    First Name:
    David
    Truck Year:
    1977
    Truck Model:
    c-15
    Engine Size:
    350
    Fix the bolts! clean out the treads on the block. Heili Coiling the block while still in the rig is an expensive way to go. get new bolts. you may even have to replace the starter or at least the Starter drive. if it's been out of alignment for a while. flex plate and or ring gear( if manual tranz is expensive also. spend the money on a good tap and some carb cleaner etc to clean out the treads with the tap. get new bolts go to a wrecking yard if you feel like it and find a rear starter brace oh they are not universal it depends on how long your starter is two or three different model starters and if your starter has the threaded stud on it, most do but not all. One more time fix the threads and bolts you will be much happier.
     

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