Problem solved

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Ricko1966

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sometimes they get an air lock, needs to be burped. they can be frustrating to get out. I have parked my rig with the nose uphill and sometimes that will work
He changed the thermostat,easy way to prevent air lock wedge the thermostat open with asprin,no airlock and it dissolves when water starts circulating.
 

Ricko1966

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Try manifold to heater core,heater core to water pump
Edit
Just read previous posts @matt4426 told you to do this back same thing on post 20. Did you do it
 
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SirRobyn0

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can’t someone with experience back me up??? Can’t you take the radiator cap off while it is running as LONG as it is normal operating temperature??
NO! I've got around 25 in auto repair. Rick has been around forever too. These systems are suppose to pressurize when they are warmed up hence the pressure rating on the cap. Even running, once fully warmed up there should be pressure, if not there is an issue.
 

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NO! I've got around 25 in auto repair. Rick has been around forever too. These systems are suppose to pressurize when they are warmed up hence the pressure rating on the cap. Even running, once fully warmed up there should be pressure, if not there is an issue.
Maybe we should just let natural selection work it's magic on this one. Lol
 

SirRobyn0

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Maybe we should just let natural selection work it's magic on this one. Lol
All I try to do it educate, as best I can whether people listen or not is up to them. You've said most of what I would and I can't add much to that, so I mostly chimed in to back you up. But if he doesn't listen and ends up in the ER with burns all over his hands and face then yes... natural selection. @triplel43762 that was not an exaggeration, guys get serious burns from popping radiator caps when hot and under press. This will be my last warning.


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Notice how each one of those caps has a warning about being under pressure and not opening when hot.....
 

AuroraGirl

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NO! I've got around 25 in auto repair. Rick has been around forever too. These systems are suppose to pressurize when they are warmed up hence the pressure rating on the cap. Even running, once fully warmed up there should be pressure, if not there is an issue.
eeven partially cooled down you should get a burping out of warm fluid when not running that wont spray you but wont spare your shoe etc
 

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All I try to do it educate, as best I can whether people listen or not is up to them. You've said most of what I would and I can't add much to that, so I mostly chimed in to back you up. But if he doesn't listen and ends up in the ER with burns all over his hands and face then yes... natural selection. @triplel43762 that was not an exaggeration, guys get serious burns from popping radiator caps when hot and under press. This will be my last warning.


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Notice how each one of those caps has a warning about being under pressure and not opening when hot.....
I wonder if those caps are onto something...
 

Ricko1966

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Which water pump and fan are you using.theres a reason I'm asking so please provide an accurate answer. The reason I am asking is if it is the fan from the engine you are using,verify the fan is spinning the correct direction to pull air through the radiator, if it is great. If it is not you are turning the water pump the wrong direction possibly from wrong pulley set up or wrong belt routing. If it is not the fan that came on the motor make sure the pitch on the blades is the same as in both fans spin the same direction to pull. Edit OK just went back and reread a bunch of stuff. Are you no longer fighting the heater issue now you've moved on to thinking you have a headgasket out? A head gasket can cause an airlock preventing you from getting heat. Are we now to the point of diagnosing a headgasket?
 
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AuroraGirl

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Which water pump and fan are you using.theres a reason I'm asking so please provide an accurate answer. The reason I am asking is if it is the fan from the engine you are using,verify the fan is spinning the correct direction to pull air through the radiator, if it is great. If it is not you are turning the water pump the wrong direction possibly from wrong pulley set up or wrong belt routing. If it is not the fan that came on the motor make sure the pitch on the blades is the same as in both fans spin the same direction to pull.
good on expanding it. the reason i said something is it looks like my fan and I have a older v belt and not serpentine or reversed water pump. and the fan is mounted on mine to work right, but his looks like how mine is
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AuroraGirl

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Which water pump and fan are you using.theres a reason I'm asking so please provide an accurate answer. The reason I am asking is if it is the fan from the engine you are using,verify the fan is spinning the correct direction to pull air through the radiator, if it is great. If it is not you are turning the water pump the wrong direction possibly from wrong pulley set up or wrong belt routing. If it is not the fan that came on the motor make sure the pitch on the blades is the same as in both fans spin the same direction to pull.
nvm.. I thought this was a thread where a guy had a pic of his engine out of the truck, Scratch all i just said
 

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can’t someone with experience back me up??? Can’t you take the radiator cap off while it is running as LONG as it is normal operating temperature??
To explain it completely, NO.
However if you got douched with coolant that didn’t require first aid, it may be over pressurized from a head gasket leak.
 

SirRobyn0

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To explain it completely, NO.
However if you got douched with coolant that didn’t require first aid, it may be over pressurized from a head gasket leak.
Completely agree, and I know I said I wouldn't harp on this anymore but I thought of something else that might be useful to the OP or someone down the road that might find this thread.

I'd encourage anyone that thinks they might have a head gasket issue and is not sure or is unsure if they are experiencing abnormal cooling system pressurization to head down to their favorite auto parts store and purchase a block integrity test kit, also sometimes called a head gasket test kit. looks like this.

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So you fill the tester to the line with the test fluid put the tester on the radiator in place of the cap with the engine running, and squeeze the squeeze ball to suck air from the radiator though the tester, generally done for few minutes. It'll change color to yellow if hydrocarbons are in the radiator.

But yea if it spews coolant coolant even when cold no need for a test kit. But the kit can be a way prove or disprove a head gasket issue. It'll set you back about $30 and for a home mechanic the fluid will likely go bad before you get though it all, but $30 could save a guy all the time and cost of pulling cylinder heads just to find out there isn't a problem, or can reassure a guy they are heading in the right direction. If in doubt stop guessing and run a test.
 

75gmck25

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First comment - never remove the radiator cap on a hot engine, running or stopped, unless you are ready to deflect a strong geyser of hot water. It will burn you!!
if you have a cold or cool engine you can start it up and run it with the cap off for quite a while. As it warms up it will start running water out of the radiator neck, but it won’t shoot up because there is no pressure. It will usually eventually start running hot because there is no pressure other than ambient.

At the start of the thread the OP said he took a working engine out of another truck and then replaced the thermostat and water pump. Why were they replaced? If the old ones worked, even marginally, put them back in and see if that fixes it.

I don’t know if the plumbing of the heater return into the lower radiator hose is a good or bad idea, but it’s not stock for this truck. Maybe you should try running a return hose to the open radiator neck (just let it run in) to simulate a stock return, and see if it works.
 

triplel43762

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All is well. I didn’t realize that the cap was 16 pounds, and I always ran 7 pound caps previously. Big difference!! No blown head gasket or any issues now. Reset the timing and switched the vacuum advance hose to another port. The coolant still bubbles out of the radiator different than any other sqare that I’ve owned but I think it may be related to the elevation that I’m at.
 

AuroraGirl

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All is well. I didn’t realize that the cap was 16 pounds, and I always ran 7 pound caps previously. Big difference!! No blown head gasket or any issues now. Reset the timing and switched the vacuum advance hose to another port. The coolant still bubbles out of the radiator different than any other sqare that I’ve owned but I think it may be related to the elevation that I’m at.
Why only 7 pounds?
 

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