Power Windows Troubleshooting Info

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RetroC10Sport

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Thee's a circuit breaker in each window motor as well and it will pop if there's too much of a load on the motor.
 

HotRodPC

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NO, I took a circuit breaker out of the one truck and plugged it in the truck I got working. So obviously the circuit breaker was bad. I didn't add any connectors or Micky Rig anything. All still with the OEM wiring and all. Hope that answers your question. Not sure I understand what you were asking.
 

JayBird

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Maybe retro is on to something with the motor having a circuit breaker since i heard the eletrical pops inside my door.

I'll keep you updated. Dont you just hate eletrical gremlins!!
 

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Hey HotRod,

So where does the 30 amp circuit breaker go?

I think i may have the exact same problem you had.
 

HotRodPC

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I'll have to get out there and see if I can get a good angle with a cam to get a pic. But there is also a circuit breaker in the fuse box under the dash. That's the one I replaced and got mine to working.

EDIT: It's the silver box above the 20amp Yellow Choke Fuse and is actually a 30amp Breaker. Spot is marked 30A PWR WDO
 

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JayBird

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Ok i tried 2 or 3 good 30 amp breakers in the slot and still no luck, im getting absolutely no power from the wires to the switches.
 

HotRodPC

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Ok i tried 2 or 3 good 30 amp breakers in the slot and still no luck, im getting absolutely no power from the wires to the switches.

OK, so start right there at the fuse box. Pull the fuse/breaker out, use a continuity tester and make sure you've got 12v on at least one of those terminals. I'd imagine it should be the left terminal but not positive. As long as one has power, you can assume the power goes thru the breaker to the other side. If you don't have power at all, then you know the problem is at or behind the fuse block, if it does have power, then the problem is at or past the fuse block.


PS... Don't forget to have your ignition in the on position.
 

89Suburban

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I am rebuilding my driver's side power window regulator assembly today with good used parts. I disassembled all the window motors and regulators from the '89. I removed the regulator from the '90 and I found something very shocking in half the regulator assemblies themselves. The spring on half of them are rusted and creating a binding factor, grinding feeling and noise I did not notice before. With the motors removed you can easily fell the difference in the action, binding and noise between the good springs and the rusty ones. I'm talking over twice as hard to move by hand. This seems to be a much overlooked problem. Every point in these regulators has been looked at and lubed during normal maintenance. However this spring remains hidden behind the door panel where you cannot see it. Here is a pic of the '90 spring:

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A pic from the '89 on top next to the '90 also rusted and binding:


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Cleaning thee springs and lubing them makes a HUGE difference. :waytogo:
 

89Suburban

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Another weak spot in the regulators is the stop tabs built into them for the main gear. I found this one was actually folded over and underneath the gear causing severe binding and throwing the track arms out of alignment. All the regulators except the one out of the '90 were bent or damaged. Something else to look for when servicing.

Pics:


Good stop tab on the '90 regulator:


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Bad stop tab on the '89 regulator:



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Bent stop tab on the '89 rear door regulator:


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HotRodPC

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I bet it does make a huge difference. :waytogo: My K1500 windows need work too. They do work, but so damn slow. Also, there is a gap. You can here the motor for like 2 seconds before it starts pulling the window down. It's taking up slack. Then going up, it has to take the slack up the other direction before it starts bushing the glass up.
 

HotRodPC

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Another weak spot in the regulators is the stop tabs built into them for the main gear. I found this one was actually folded over and underneath the gear causing severe binding and throwing the track arms out of alignment. All the regulators except the one out of the '90 were bent or damaged. Something else to look for when servicing.

Pics:


Good stop tab on the '90 regulator:


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Bad stop tab on the '89 regulator:



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You must be registered for see images











Bent stop tab on the '89 rear door regulator:


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You're just the Mr Window Regulator Fix It huh??? Good info. Someday when it comes time to do the interior on the K1500, I'll be pulling the regulators out to put in new motors. Figured they're almost 30 years old, it's time for new motors, and I'll do all this to the regulators too. I had even thought of just converting the K1500 windows to manual crank since I have the regulators and tan door panels from the Burnt Cab Scottsdale so they'll be problem free and if I ever get in deep water.... but fugg it, I'll leave it OEM. I like power windows anyway. At least the passenger side so I can roll it up and down without having to lay across the cab while driving. All my **** has power windows, AC and Cruise. Just got to get them all working.
 

89Suburban

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It never occurred to me the amount of friction a dirty or rusty spring on there would cause. Night and day difference. Could save you from installing a new motor. A good cleaning and packing of new grease compared to a new motor, I'll take that.
 

flyboy1100

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I have seen the schematics but the wires aren't labeled well enough for me i guess, EDIT: used a computer this time, can actually trace the wires.....so I'm good now.

Pink is main power, black is ground i assume?

Mine quit working and i am assuming it is the pink wire inside the door boot broke since i don't have power at the end inside the door. But my passenger side window still works from the passenger side door switch. Everything on drivers door is dead

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
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flyboy1100

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Got it. Pretty much every wire was broke.... Windows work great now

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 

smoothandlow84

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Soumds like I too need to check, the spring for rust. My passengers side window is slower than L.A. traffic during rush hour. Drivers side window twice the speed and it doesn't click and pop when rolling up either.

Yet another gremlin.......
 

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