Np208 yoke

[PrairieDrifter]

@RanchWelder

This is the one I ended up using, seems the part number is discontinued, only did a small search though.

You must be registered for see images attach

The flange surface ended up being the exact same height, pilot and bolt holes were correct. Haven't had a leak since. The spline count is 32, don't forget the rubber spline washer.

I found this that seems to be the exact same one, just a different part number because of torque king instead of quad 4x4z but says it's backordered maybe? Same numbers after the letters.

TKA10935 32 Spline Front CV Flange for Dodge NP205D, N208D, NP241D, GM NP208C, NP241C

TKA10935 32-spline front CV flange for 1975-1997 Dodge and 1981-1991 GM NP205, NP208, and NP241 transfer cases. USA-made from heavy-duty billet steel.

torqueking.com

You should be searching for Chevy or dodge output yokes. 32 spline. Then the only other real important part is the pilot ring size. The driveshaft should have 3r u joints. I believe the off-road design ones would have worked.

I have a 208 I'm not using at the moment I can measure. That quad 4x4 part number exists because I believe that company sells on torque king.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

The pilot ring is 3 1/8 inches. The bolt spacing seems to be 3x3x3x3 inches. Should be something out there you can get quickly. Off-road design, I think I saw some on summit.

I've got a 4 inch lift and I ran the factory length driveshaft for 30,000 miles. You'll be okay till you can get it lengthened if needed. I doubt it'll be fully extended though.

 

[RanchWelder]

I agree with drive line length analysis.
After dropping the 4L80E to 4-1/2 inches below the frame,over the standard case lowering pins, which I think were1-3/4 or 2 inch drop, the drive line angle towards the front still works with the cross member and is more like a straight shot to the front end.

I need new front springs and bushings, then the gears for the front 10-bolt to match, as mentioned. I'm cutting the Blazer cap down to a small headache over the driver's seat.
It will measure 12-14 inches when it's cut and channeled.

My main focus today is welding in the Demco Slider X-Plate to the deck.

Need to see it mounted to gauge the spring load. It's heavy.
We removed the overload spring from the pack on the 60 inch springs.
Gained 4 inches of rearward movement on the rear 14-bolt.
Used adjustable anti-wrap perches but the top plates would have needed modding to go back the extar inch. I'm within 2 inches from the cover scraping the fuel tank skid plate.
Probably could have made it work, No time.

I'm concerned I might need to add a single of smallest leaves from a 64 inch set, or cut down the overload from that pack and add it in so the 5th wheel does not compress too much with the camper on.

Trying to buy an RV this week and move out before the 3rd.
Insurance, title, registration, load everything i own and go.

I swapped the reverse servo pin last night. Hoping that makes reverse much tighter.
Used my last servo crush gasket. Luckily I had the next 2 sizes up servo pin.
I'm using 3-4 funnel strainers stacked at 600 microns to filter the fluid each drop and I'll test by 9am MT time this morning.

I'll try to cross refrence what year Dodge that fits in your research and try and find one NOS from eBay, if I can. Sometimes you get lucky there and find an old timer selling off his repair shop inventory. Lil rusty, but new without scoring on the diameter is what would work.

I bought a 5 gallon pail of Dex III yesterday with what little money I have left.
They wanted $9.00 a quart at the only parts store for 140 miles.
That leak need fixing ASAP.

You sir are the Man, for responding so early.



May God Bless you and your family!

 

[RanchWelder]

Pardon me, I scrolled down the page and found the entire list of years. Wow.

 

[RanchWelder]

Must have ripped the seal for it to be leaking this bad during the rebuild.
Might have to pull the yoke and try to replace the seal without pulling everything apart, before I spend the money for this part.

Cannot swing $300 right now.
The rest of the Dodge yokes on ebay are all for the 241 or 233.

Thanks for your assistance.
Might have a spare seal in my DT rebuild kit for that shaft.
Know I have a spare nut seal.

2 steps forward 1 step back, this entire rebuild.

Moving on.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Must have ripped the seal for it to be leaking this bad during the rebuild.
Might have to pull the yoke and try to replace the seal without pulling everything apart, before I spend the money for this part.

Cannot swing $300 right now.
The rest of the Dodge yokes on ebay are all for the 241 or 233.

Thanks for your assistance.
Might have a spare seal in my DT rebuild kit for that shaft.
Know I have a spare nut seal.

2 steps forward 1 step back, this entire rebuild.

Moving on.

No problem! I had time and you said it was urgent. Plus I had already been through that hassle. You are correct in the assumption that within the correct year ranges, a 208c and 208d are basically the same thing. Just small differences.

My best advice for you for a quick cheap fix, is to get a seal, then get the proper speedy sleeve kit for your yoke, and run that until you can replace it. Should be able to find a speedy sleeve kit and seal locally and pretty cheap too.

ALSO! I would recommend you edit out your phone number from that post. Everyone here wouldn't do anything with it. But anyone on the internet can view that, thousands of people view this site that don't hang out here.

We don't need to help the scum that steal our info. Not trying to nag, just lookin out.

 

[RanchWelder]

I thought I private emailed you... wait I did?

Thought you responded to me private through email.
Had no idea you started a new thread with the same name on a public forum.

I should have caught the pictures in your message, because private email will not allow pictures.

I deletd everything.

Please respond to my email in the private messages server instead, OK?

 

[PrairieDrifter]

I thought I private emailed you... wait I did?

Thought you responded to me private through email.
Had no idea you started a new thread with the same name on a public forum.

I should have caught the pictures in your message, because private email will not allow pictures.

I deletd everything.

Please respond to my email in the private messages server instead, OK?

Sorry about that. That's the reason I started the thread was for the pictures.

 

[RanchWelder]

No big deal.
It's fixed.

Do you have any experiance with transmission work?
I'm stuck without reverse on 4L80E rebuild.
The New Sonnax Valve body gave me some reverse and now itt see 300 psi at the gauge.

When I hit the gas nothing happens until 4400 rpm and it starts slowly to back up.

When I let off a lil' as if it's going to grab it stops.

I tried to put a londer pin in last night and it gave me this result.

Yesterday with the shorte pin it would not move.
And i'm not certain I tried thast hard to get it to, when the idle should be low when the piston hits the reverse band.

Tha band is good. The Kent-Moore tool showed just about the A-1 pin. So I custom ground one .010 longer than the recommended length of the A-1.

I'm in a bad bind with this issue.

I asked nick and he refuses to respond.

I have no experiance with thgis type of failure.
Any help would be apreciated.

I have to leave here in 8 days, so I'm really in trouble.

 

[RanchWelder]

Bump...

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Bump...

I would be of no help with auto transmissions. Thats the one thing I don't touch.