Need some Help, U-joints crapping out early

[Blackout]

Hello everybody,

My truck's U-Joints on the Front and rear drive shafts are crapping out extremly early(at least IMO, 2nd lifted truck in a year, still new to this). Today, my U-Joint completely crapped out and trashed my drive shaft....not to happy. Getting a replacement tomorrow.

I was told by some fellow lifted truck owners that my truck would need pinion wedges. I dont know much about them and from what I see, there are different degrees and sizes. How do I decide the correct degree I need from a already lifted truck?

I was told that you have to go back to stock and measure then do the lift, then you can see the difference in the angle to adjust. My problem is that I cant go back to stock. I know somebody has done this before so I'm hoping for any help.

Truck Stats for additional info:
81 chevy K10 1/2 ton P/U
36 mickey thompsons
8" skyjacker lift kit


I plan on going to 40" tires soon, should I wait till then?

Again, any help will be great. BTW, this is the best forum for help ever on our type of truck. Ive always search here for answers. Thanks yall

 

[bucket]

Can you get pictures showing your current u-joint angles? It would really help a lot.

Also, it's not the best idea to run 40 inch tires with 1/2 ton axles. Even running around on the street, parts won't last very long, not to mention the undersized brakes.

 

[crazy4offroad]

The output angle at the t-case should match as closely as possible to the angle at the pinion. You may want to also look into upgrading the yokes all the way around. 1350 yoke at the t-case and pinion, and have your driveshaft fitted with 1350 yokes, and go with Spicer u-joints. Trust me I've been through junking u-joints just about every time I went 4-wheelin. For the front I had to eliminate the double cardan joint for an early 70s NP203 t-case yoke (instead of the flange) and make my own driveshaft out of 1/4" wall box steel. A better option I hear is a 2005-up Dodge 2500 front driveshaft which is flange style like your stocker but has 1350 u-joints throughout. The length will have to be cut down to fit your truck by a driveline shop but I hear it has a higher running angle. You can find t-case and pinion yokes at places like Denny's driveline
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c234_4x4_trucks.html
or poly performance
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/
or Parts Mike
http://www.partsmike.com/store/store.php
but you should probably talk to the driveline shop first, they can "usually" get yokes at about the same price and save you shipping.

 

[Blackout]

Can you get pictures showing your current u-joint angles? It would really help a lot.

Also, it's not the best idea to run 40 inch tires with 1/2 ton axles. Even running around on the street, parts won't last very long, not to mention the undersized brakes.

I wish I could but I'm at work and gotta leave it.

What axles would you run? Whats a good donor truck for axles?

 

[Blackout]

Does anyone run pinion wedges? Any tips?

 

[crazy4offroad]

For 40s a 14-bolt full-floater rear and dana 60 front would be best.

 

[bucket]

I wish I could but I'm at work and gotta leave it.

What axles would you run? Whats a good donor truck for axles?

3/4 ton axles will be direct bolt-in, you just need 8-lug wheels to go with it. You will still have the ball joints up front that won't last the longest, but the rear axle will be much stronger (especially if you get a 14 bolt with the 10.5 ring gear and full floating hubs) and the brakes will be a lot bigger.

Does anyone run pinion wedges? Any tips?

Most people do. The shims come installed on a lot of lift springs, and lift blocks have the angle cast right into them.