How Much Turbo is Too Much?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

El Camino Man

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2013
Posts
181
Reaction score
1
Location
SO IL
First Name
JP
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
R30 Scottsdale
Engine Size
6.2L
Hey guys. Iv wanted to slap a turbo on my truck since the day I bought it. I want to give it a good kick in the butt but not overdo it to the point of having to tear it apart and completely redo the whole bottom end or something ridiculous.

On that note, Iv found a heck of a turbo for pretty cheap. Its a Holset H2E turbo, completely rebuilt, and of course zero play in the wheel. Asking $500 obo. If its too much, Id rather save a couple more hundred dollars and get the infamous A-Tam Turbo.
 

Stroked

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2011
Posts
2,248
Reaction score
88
Location
Beloit, Kansas
First Name
Jared
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
305
Any turbo is too much. :Grenade:

I believe the safe limit is like 8 lbs of boost, so not a whole lot. I've been casually looking for a turbo for my 6.2, but I'm a little afraid it'll say FU and blow to smithereens.
 

Jims86

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
5,492
Reaction score
133
Location
Patterson,Ca
First Name
Jim
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K10 Suburban Silverado
Engine Size
5.7 TBI
I would do a cummins swap before turboing a 6.2...or at least put in an updated 6.5.
 

Stroked

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2011
Posts
2,248
Reaction score
88
Location
Beloit, Kansas
First Name
Jared
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
305
I would do a cummins swap before turboing a 6.2...or at least put in an updated 6.5.

One of these days...

I'm actually hoping to find a rusted out Gen 1 or 2 Dodge with a Cummins so I can just do a body swap rather than dealing with my weak GM frame and axles.
 

MrMarty51

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2012
Posts
7,508
Reaction score
9,339
Location
Eastern Montana
First Name
Martin
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
400
I once had a twelve valve in a 1980 Dodge.
A friend seen the pickup and asked, " Why would anyone stick a 500,000 mile engine in a 50,000 mile pickup". :birgits_tiredcoffee :burnout:
 

El Camino Man

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2013
Posts
181
Reaction score
1
Location
SO IL
First Name
JP
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
R30 Scottsdale
Engine Size
6.2L
I would do a cummins swap before turboing a 6.2...or at least put in an updated 6.5.

I wouldn't! The gains not worth the price IMO. A Destroked adapter plate is $800 by itself. An A-Team Turbo is cheaper than that! Not to mention... EVERYONE has a Cummins these days...

I wouldn't mind having to stud the heads or something similar as long as Im not gonna blow a crank out the oil pan
 

Jims86

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
5,492
Reaction score
133
Location
Patterson,Ca
First Name
Jim
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K10 Suburban Silverado
Engine Size
5.7 TBI
I wouldn't! The gains not worth the price IMO. A Destroked adapter plate is $800 by itself. An A-Team Turbo is cheaper than that! Not to mention... EVERYONE has a Cummins these days...

I wouldn't mind having to stud the heads or something similar as long as Im not gonna blow a crank out the oil pan

I would rather do the swap, than all the work to the 6.2, than blow the **** outta the block webbing, or bust a crank. But if it matters, I would put in a replacement 6.5 that AM General makes, and then turbo it., before a cummins swap. at least that way, theres no chassis mods involved.
 

El Camino Man

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2013
Posts
181
Reaction score
1
Location
SO IL
First Name
JP
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
R30 Scottsdale
Engine Size
6.2L
You make a good point.

If I already had a Cummins laying around or knew where I could get one dirt cheap, then yea Id debate heavily on doing it. But some Cummins' are going for 5 grand plus on the eBay! You could dang near blow up a built 6.2 and build another one up for cheaper than the motor alone!
 

El Camino Man

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2013
Posts
181
Reaction score
1
Location
SO IL
First Name
JP
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
R30 Scottsdale
Engine Size
6.2L
rather than dealing with my weak GM axles.

Actually the 12 bolt FF and D70HD made top 4 in strongest axles. Just food for thought.
 

Stroked

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2011
Posts
2,248
Reaction score
88
Location
Beloit, Kansas
First Name
Jared
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
305
I would rather do the swap, than all the work to the 6.2, than blow the **** outta the block webbing, or bust a crank. But if it matters, I would put in a replacement 6.5 that AM General makes, and then turbo it., before a cummins swap. at least that way, theres no chassis mods involved.

I would love to have one of those new 6.5's that they are making :drool:


Actually the 12 bolt FF and D70HD made top 4 in strongest axles. Just food for thought.

No arguments here. But I don't have either of those. Mine has a Corporate 10 in the front and a semi floating 14 bolt in the rear. I do have a FF 14 bolt(I think...been awhile since I looked) under a 76 C20 that I might swap in some day.
 

El Camino Man

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2013
Posts
181
Reaction score
1
Location
SO IL
First Name
JP
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
R30 Scottsdale
Engine Size
6.2L
Quick question for ya guys. Iv looked at some 6.5 turbo set-ups. It appears the passenger side manifold does 75% of the work and the drivers side crosses over to assist. Then Iv also read where the #8 cylinder is prone to burning up because 100% of the drivers side exhaust comes through the passenger manifold. My question is this: wouldn't it be simpler to just run the drivers side manifold out the bottom like a non-turbo truck and have the passenger side do 100% of the work? Is this feasible?
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
42,195
Posts
911,122
Members
33,688
Latest member
Dan87r10
Top