gas leak

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r.booser

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Are you saying it's leaking where the actual metal filler neck is attached to the tank? If so, you probably have a rust problem that will be harder to fix. You might be looking at a new tank if so.

Yep, where the neck hits the tank it was leaking. I noticed there is a **** ton of silicone all around it so obviously it was and issue before hand. I'm going to take the silicone off tonight. Rust isn't usually a problem here in east Tennessee though. So fingers crossed it is and easy fix. Also noticed the ground strap was broke, wonder if that's why my gauge isn't working.
 

junkyardog05

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Yep, where the neck hits the tank it was leaking. I noticed there is a **** ton of silicone all around it so obviously it was and issue before hand. I'm going to take the silicone off tonight. Rust isn't usually a problem here in east Tennessee though. So fingers crossed it is and easy fix. Also noticed the ground strap was broke, wonder if that's why my gauge isn't working.

Just noticed that you in knoxville, if you need any parts I know of some salvage yards in the knoxville and crossville area. I'm in Middle TN.
 

chengny

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Easy one first. No the broken ground strap has nothing to do with your gas gauge. It is only there to dissipate any static charge that might build up while fueling. Prevents explosions.

The leak:

So, it turned out to be failure of the the tank/fill pipe interface.

Is the joint still mechanically strong - with just a localized area of rust-through?

Or did the area where the steel rusted through go all around the joint and cause the two parts to become detached - enough so the fill pipe is loose enough to move with your hand?

I ask this because; if the rust-through is local (and the pipe is still firmly joined to the tank by most of the soldered connection) it is very possible that the leak can be repaired with some type of soft patch.

By soft patch I mean one of the many available off-the-shelf epoxy systems (JB Weld for example).

See if you can get the majority of the rust out with a wire brush (use the small toothbrush style). Use some carb cleaner to flush any residue away and do the wire brush again. Final flush with carb cleaner and let dry.

Mix your epoxy and fill in the leaking area. If the opening is fairly large due to wasted metal and wire brushing, do the repair in several steps. The first coats should be light and build on the one before it. When the leak is finally covered do another couple of light coats that blend the epoxy into the surrounding areas where the steel is still sweet.

When you do this soft patch type repair make sure the tank is vented (I'm sure you'll have the fill hose off, so that should take care of it). If an epoxy is applied to a sealed tank with gasoline in it, vapor pressure can build up within the tank and push the epoxy out of the gap before it has a chance to set up. I will look like a good repair from the outside but will soon crack and fail.
 

chengny

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One final thought and then I'll leave you alone.

After the tank is repaired (or replaced as the case may be) I strongly suggest two things concerning your fuel system.

1. If you still have the standard Rochester Quadrajet carburetor installed, remove the fuel line inlet fitting and the carb to tubing adapter that it connects to. Under the adapter you will find a pleated cardboard filter. Due to all the wasted metal that occurred at the tank, it may be packed with rust that was sucked up by the fuel flow. Inspect and replace if necessary.

2. If you do find that the fuel filter inside the carb was really dirty, there is a lot of rust/debris in the fuel line. It will probably take some time to get it all out. So rather than going through the hassle of checking/changing the carb filter several times, you might consider installing an inline high capacity filter. They are see through and easily installed by cutting into a rubber section of the fuel line, inserting the filter and clamping the hoses on either side.
 

r.booser

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yes it is leaking where the neck meets the tank. It looks like it only has one house clamp on it now. I'm going to stop by tonight and get 2 new clamps and a ground strap since the one on it was broke. I have been fixing other issues and haven't had time to attend this one. But since I want to start driving it, I'm making time.
 

r.booser

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Took it all apart and the metal neck sticking out of the tank is detached from the tank itself. Is there a way to fix that even?
 

chengny

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Anything can be fixed provided you have enough time, patience and money. But sometimes it's best to bite the bullet and renew the part.

Did you read my long, boring dissertation on the construction of the fuel tank?

Quick version: that filler neck is added on at the last minute, depending on what type of vehicle the tank is going in. It is a soldered joint. To make that repair would require the tank be dropped, flushed, soldered and refit.

It would suck if you went through the hassle of a repair and then soon after your work failed.

Locate and buy a used tank. Then, when the weather gets nice, spend a Saturday changing it out.

Until then refer to my original advice - just don't fill the tank all the way up!

The leakage is not happening during the filling process, it is just draining off what fuel is above the crack after filling.
 

r.booser

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Thanks for the help. It wouldn't be as big of an issue bit the gauge don't work either. Guess I got some work to do
 

junkyardog05

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Thanks for the help. It wouldn't be as big of an issue bit the gauge don't work either. Guess I got some work to do

Save yourself time and some work by just putting another tank up under it, you should be able to get one at a good price from Ebay or LMC. That's what I would do.
 

r.booser

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Ya I found a few for less than 100 new.
 

r.booser

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haha I was just debating that actually. Since I'll already be up there. Otherwise with my luck that would go out in a week.
 

junkyardog05

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haha I was just debating that actually. Since I'll already be up there. Otherwise with my luck that would go out in a week.

If could get a new one for pretty cheap. I would consider it, if I planned on keeping it.
 

r.booser

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well I don't see any "cheap" ones. But I don't plan on ever getting rid of this truck so I have no problem buying parts if I can afford them.
 

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