Flat towing a Suburban?

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Bextreme04

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Also, I believe the 241 has the fluid pump on the rear output shaft, so as long as you have the transmission in PARK and the transfer case in NEUTRAL, it should be getting properly lubricated as long as the rear driveshaft is turning. It is important to note that the 241 will lock the front and rear driveshaft together when in neutral, so make sure you have the front hubs unlocked also, or you are going to have a bad time.
 

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Yeah, I should run it across the scale and see for sure. I pull my toy hauler ice fishing house with the motorhome quite a bit loaded with stuff and I don’t hardly know it is back there, but I’m sure it is lighter than the ‘burb.

This said, my buddy pulls his jeep or a 24’ cargo trailer behind an older Ford V10 class A and I’ve followed him across the state at 70-75mph.
And when I tow our boat 6000lbs behind with the truck camper on, I get the same mileage basically as just the camper.
Wind resistance won’t be an issue. It will sit right in the slip stream so may not be bad on flat ground.
My thoughts were hills, both up and down will be a challenge. I’ve never used an auxiliary braking system for toads before though.
 

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This said, my buddy pulls his jeep or a 24’ cargo trailer behind an older Ford V10 class A and I’ve followed him across the state at 70-75mph.
And when I tow our boat 6000lbs behind with the truck camper on, I get the same mileage basically as just the camper.
Wind resistance won’t be an issue. It will sit right in the slip stream so may not be bad on flat ground.
My thoughts were hills, both up and down will be a challenge. I’ve never used an auxiliary braking system for toads before though.
Yeah, I’m not worried about wind resistance either. I pull my toy hauler ice fishing house behind the motorhome quite a bit and don’t even really know it is there. The braking concern is something I need to do more research on. I know there are auxiliary brake kits a guy can get for toads.
 

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I've had my suburban on a landfill scale out west when I was visiting my dad. Doing math the same way Vince did I was right around the 6k lbs mark give or take. Mostly stock 1987 1/2t 4x4 still on 31s at the time, manual windows, no rear a/c, fairly low frills truck besides the Silverado package- it's a heavy truck. I don't thing they made great strides in weight saving technology in 3 years, if anything all the electronics and fancy **** they put on the later trucks probably weigh even more.

It's a lot of weight to pull around behind another vehicle. But to answer the original question about the transfer case, I would have to assume that as long as the hubs and steering column are unlocked with the trans in neutral it shouldn't be an issue, especially if you leave the transfer case in neutral for good measure I really wouldn't be worried at all. Assuming the tow rig has enough engine to pull it and brakes to stop it.

Gonna look pretty funny pulling a motorhome around behind your motorhome though... lol
 
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My Suburban was 6000 lbs almost on the dot. They're much heavier than they look.
 

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Yeah, I’m not worried about wind resistance either. I pull my toy hauler ice fishing house behind the motorhome quite a bit and don’t even really know it is there. The braking concern is something I need to do more research on. I know there are auxiliary brake kits a guy can get for toads.

Ha, I saw some of those toyhauler camper ice shack combos! Those are bad ass!
 

Bextreme04

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I've had my suburban on a landfill scale out west when I was visiting my dad. Doing math the same way Vince did I was right around the 6k lbs mark give or take. Mostly stock 1987 1/2t 4x4 still on 31s at the time, manual windows, no rear a/c, fairly low frills truck besides the Silverado package- it's a heavy truck. I don't thing they made great strides in weight saving technology in 3 years, if anything all the electronics and fancy **** they put on the later trucks probably weigh even more.

It's a lot of weight to pull around behind another vehicle. But to answer the original question about the transfer case, I would have to assume that as long as the hubs and steering column are unlocked with the trans in neutral it shouldn't be an issue, especially if you leave the transfer case in neutral for good measure I really wouldn't be worried at all. Assuming the tow rig has enough engine to pull it and brakes to stop it.

Gonna look pretty funny pulling a motorhome around behind your motorhome though... lol

Be careful flat towing an automatic transmission vehicle in neutral. The fluid pump is on the torque converter input and flat towing for any amount of distance or at higher speeds with the output shaft of the transmission being able to spin with no lubrication to the output bushing can cause some serious damage to the transmission.

Transmission in PARK, Transfer case in NEUTRAL should be fine with most transfer cases since the fluid pump is usually on the output shaft on newer chain drive transfer cases.
 

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Ha, I saw some of those toyhauler camper ice shack combos! Those are bad ass!
We actually use it for camping more than fishing the past couple years. Pretty versatile unit. Haul the kids bikes in it and all the “stuff” we seem to need for camping with kids and then they can sleep in it if the weather isn’t conducive to tenting. It is insulated with a furnace and a stove in it too.
 

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@mcarlo86,

What about those vehicle towing things that you drive up onto that has a cradle for the front ties. You would be on the back tires only. What would that do for having it out of gear or whatever?
@Gritdog?, @Bextreme04?
 

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And do they have electric brakes?
 

Bextreme04

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@mcarlo86,

What about those vehicle towing things that you drive up onto that has a cradle for the front ties. You would be on the back tires only. What would that do for having it out of gear or whatever?
@Gritdog?, @Bextreme04?

Yeah, you could get a tow dolly with electric brakes... they run about $500-800 around here usually. The same thing would apply though, you wouldn't want to tow it on the rear tires unless you either disconnected the rear driveshaft or towed it with the transmission in "PARK", transfer case in "NEUTRAL", and front hubs unlocked.

The only benefit to that would be the electric brakes.
 

SirRobyn0

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I hate to dig up an old thread but I've got something to add that some folks may find useful. My first question is did you @mcarlo86 ever tow the Suburban behind the motorhome and how did it do?

One thing no one else mentioned is some RV's have frame extensions off the back of the frame to make them longer. Some of these are very stout frame extensions that may even be stronger than the factory frame, others I've see have been much smaller channel steel butt welded to the factory frame, and not suitable for towing at all. So a person really needs to look for that, you wouldn't want to tear off the rear of the RV going down the road.

Now my experience with towing with an RV. Keep in mind I live near the cascades so I know what it is like to pull hills and passes. At this point I've had basically two RV's note worthy here. Both of them I knew we'd tow with so it was high priority the frame extensions were strong. First one was a 22' 77 class C with the Dodge 360. Towed on a dolly our minivan I don't really know the total weight but I'd guess 5,500 to 6K. And we also towed my 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee flat towed which is right around 4,200LBs. The difference between the two was very noticeable. We have also towed these two same setups with our current RV which has the 454, and is a 1999 so it's an injected vortec. The newer RV is bigger and heavier, than the 77, and it handles them both better, but in either combination the minivan slows ya down more. I'd say as long as you are 100% sure the frame is up to it, run a brake setup in the suburban and try it. The worst thing that will happen is you won't be happy with your ability to get up to speed and maintain it on hills and you'll never do it again.

Like you the idea of a Suzuki or any other sub compact car or suv is totally inappropriate for our life style. Frankly the Jeep is to small, but it's a compromise that works for weekend trips. For longer trips we'll still use tow the minivan once in a while.
 

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Best answer I found looks like it is from the owner's manual or technical manual... 3rd post.


Trucks -

Four Wheel Drive And All Wheel Drive

"dinghy" Towing Is Permitted On Four Wheel Drive Trucks Only When Equipped With: - T Trucks Equipped With A New Process 231 Transfer Case (rpo Np2) - K Trucks Equipped With A New Process 241 Transfer Case(rpo Np2) - K Trucks Equipped With A Borg-warner 1370/4401/4470 Transfer Case, And The Transfer Case Is Placed In The Neutral Position. - K Trucks Equipped With A New Process 246 Transfer Case (rpo Np8)

In Order To Determine The Transfer Case Model, Locate The Identification Tag. This Tag Attaches To The Rear Case Half And Provides The Transfer Case Model Number (figures 1 And 2). Only Vehicles Equipped With New Process 231/241/246 Or Borg-warner 1370/4401/4470 Model Transfer Cases Can Be Dinghy Towed With The Transfer Case In Neutral.

Important: The Following All Wheel Drive And Four Wheel Drive Vehicles Should Not Be Dinghy Towed Unless The Propeller Shafts Are First Removed.

- K Trucks Equipped With The Optional Electric Shift Transfer Case, New Process 243 (rpo Np1) (no Neutral) - T Trucks Equipped With The Optional Electric Shift Transfer Case, New Process 233 (rpo Np1) (no Neutral) - Syclone, Typhoon, L Van And Bravada Which Are Equipped With The Borg-warner 4472 Transfer Case (no Neutral) And The Nvg136 Transfer Case - T Trucks Equipped With The New Process 207 Transfer Case (no Oil Pump) - K Trucks Equipped With The New Process 208 Transfer Case (no Oil Pump)

The Transfer Cases In These All Wheel Drive Or Four Wheel Drive Vehicles Either Have No Neutral Position Or Internal Oil Pump To Provide Lubrication While Being Towed. To Properly Tow These Vehicles, The Vehicle Should Be Placed On A Platform Trailer With All Four Tires Off The Ground. Towing With All Four Tires On The Ground Should Be Avoided. In Rare Cases When Towing With All Four Tires On The Ground Is Unavoidable, Both Front And Rear Propeller Shafts Must Be Removed In Order To Prevent Damage To The Transfer Case And/or Transmission. Follow The Applicable Service Manual Removal/installation Procedure As Front And Rear Propeller Shafts Are Matched To Attaching Components At Assembly.

TOWING PROCEDURE

THE CORRECT DINGHY TOWING PROCEDURE THAT ALL CUSTOMERS SHOULD FOLLOW IS GIVEN BELOW.

NOTICE: EXTRA CARE SHOULD BE USED WHENEVER TOWING ANOTHER VEHICLE. THE TOWING VEHICLE'S GCWR SHOULD NOT BE EXCEEDED BY ADDING THE WEIGHT OF THE DINGHY TOWED VEHICLE OR VEHICLE DAMAGE MAY RESULT.

1. FIRMLY SET THE PARKING BRAKE.

2. PLACE THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION IN "P" (PARK) OR THE MANUAL TRANSMISSION IN THE LOWEST GEAR (1ST).

3. SECURELY ATTACH THE VEHICLE BEING TOWED TO THE TOW VEHICLE.

4. IF EQUIPPED, PLACE THE TRANSFER CASE SHIFT LEVER IN "N" (NEUTRAL).

CAUTION:
SHIFTING THE TRANSFER CASE TO NEUTRAL CAN CAUSE THE VEHICLE TO ROLL, EVEN IF THE TRANSMISSION IS IN PARK (AUTOMATIC) OR 1ST GEAR (MANUAL), AND MAY CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY.

5. RELEASE THE PARKING BRAKE ONLY AFTER THE VEHICLE BEING TOWED IS FIRMLY ATTACHED TO THE TOW VEHICLE.

6. INSERT THE KEY INTO THE IGNITION SWITCH AND TURN THE KEY ONE NOTCH FORWARD OF THE LOCK POSITION. THIS PLACES THE KEY INTO THE OFF POSITION, WHICH UNLOCKS THE STEERING COLUMN WHILE PREVENTING BATTERY DRAIN. UNLOCKING THE STEERING COLUMN WILL ALLOW FOR PROPER MOVEMENT OF THE FRONT WHEELS AND TIRES DURING TOWING.
 

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I towed 2 old Ramchargers several hundred miles. One had a NP203 and the other a NP205. Popped both of them in neutral, trans in park, steering wheel unlocked using a tow bar no issues. This wasn't a camping trip just to move the vehicles from one property to another.
 

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