Edelbrock 1406 choke wire?

[Taylorb27]

I just swapped an Edelbrock 1406 onto my engine and everything works good performance wise (with the choke locked open) but for some reason I can't get my choke to heat up. I just assumed that the factory choke wire for the qjet (electric choke) would work but maybe I am wrong. I do have full voltage to that connecter while it's running and the ground is ran to the baseplate bolt of the carb. The carb is slightly used, maybe about a half a year worth of use and everything was functional when my buddy had it on.
I should have checked to make sure the ground was good before posting this but I know Edelbrock used to send them already hooked up to the air horn bolt. I recently went through all my grounds chasing a turn signal issue and that's all good.

Basically my question is why do I have power to the choke but it won't heat up and open?
By the way the choke looks good from eyeing it over and the coil is set on the right spot on the arm in the choke housing. Right now the choke is set how it came, line is in the middle of the hash marks.
Maybe this thread will end up needing to be moved I don't know lol

 

[animal]

Factory qjet uses 6volts. The eddy needs a switched 12volt feed.

 

[Taylorb27]

Factory qjet uses 6volts. The eddy needs a switched 12volt feed.

I measured 14 volts running so I figured it was good? I did just use my digital test light though maybe that's off? I will check again after work with my multimeter

 

[AuroraGirl]

not the best or pretty, but i ran mine into a tap on the wiper circuit. because the wire was broken and i could find it and it doesnt work 100% anyway. I got a fuse tap that im going to actually run a new wire from the fuse box by hijacking a power on ignition

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[Bextreme04]

Factory qjet uses 6volts. The eddy needs a switched 12volt feed.

Is that true?? How does it become a 6 volt source? Or are you thinking of the 9 volt coil source that goes to the factory points ignition? I know that happens through a special resistive power wire to the coil.

 

[Taylorb27]

I thought it was just the electric assist chokes were 6volt. The hot air choke or automatice choke whatever you want to call it.

If it helps any my choke like does not come on anymore when I put the key to ignition

 

[AuroraGirl]

that could be burned bulb.the power should come from oil pressure bypass switch thingyi would assume controlled by the switch with a 12v input.
so, you ARE getting 12volts to the choke? did you put the power wire on the right tab? did you try manually grounding the ground with an additional wire?
i since removed extra wire, but i ground my choke here

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[Taylorb27]

that could be burned bulb.the power should come from oil pressure bypass switch thingyi would assume controlled by the switch with a 12v input.
so, you ARE getting 12volts to the choke? did you put the power wire on the right tab? did you try manually grounding the ground with an additional wire?
i since removed extra wire, but i ground my choke here

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Unless the bulb burned out at the exact time I replaced the carb I think bulb is ok.

I had 14v with the engine running at that terminal while plugged in. I should have checked the ground side but I was in a hurry yesterday.
Yes the power is put to the male terminal marked positive. I will try running a jumper ground to the bracket and see if that works.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Id just run it straight to negative post. If you see change with key on, theres your dinner

 

[Bextreme04]

Unless the bulb burned out at the exact time I replaced the carb I think bulb is ok.

I had 14v with the engine running at that terminal while plugged in. I should have checked the ground side but I was in a hurry yesterday.
Yes the power is put to the male terminal marked positive. I will try running a jumper ground to the bracket and see if that works.

Always check voltage from the power being used to the ground being used. If you check voltage to a random "good" ground, you aren't really testing power in the circuit. If you checked voltage from the power terminal to the ground terminal on the choke itself, then you are probably good, although I would also do a continuity or voltage drop check as well to verify the quality of the connection. You can have full voltage at a load, but have a poor enough connection to not be able to draw any amperage.

 

[Taylorb27]

Found the issue. Ground was good. But I checked resistance between the + and - and got nothing, on the terminals anyway. I checked resistance on the rivet pins that hold each terminal on and had resistance. So I cleaned them up the best I could and put some solder to make a decent connection back between the rivets and the terminals. Works fine now!