Driver’s side sending unit ground

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The_Fry_Lord

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Location
British Columbia, Canada
First Name
Cody
Truck Year
1979
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
This may be late as far as replies go, but I recently changed the entire grounding system for fuel. What I did was I spliced longer wires onto each sending unit, then I put a 2 wire weatherpack connector on for the ground + sending unit wire to the gauge. Now I have a connector on the inside of the frame I can easily disconnect if I need to remove a tank, no more nasty bolt on the outside of the frame for the ground. I then tee’d my ground wires from the new connectors to a frame bolt in the middle of the box with a braided cable going from the box frame bolt, to the main chassis frame. Everything for my fuel system grounds off one single bolt in the middle now, super easy to access and thanks to the weatherpack connectors it’s not a fight to remove the fuel tanks. It turned out really well but I rushed and the wiring is messy, going to be revisiting it soon when I rewire everything to accommodate for my new sending units that are 3 wire since I’m adding electric pumps inside the tanks instead of a single main pump.
 

clickittyclank

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Texas
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C
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
r1500
Engine Size
350
Thank you all for the tips and info. Here’s a little update.

Found a hydraulic place down the road and they crimped on some new sleeves with fuel hose I provided for a nice price. Ground was long enough to place with the filler neck ground so it’s there for a bit although not sure how much I like it. I found another place in between the tank mounting brackets that I can also easily access and may fish it over there and ground it separately. Already cleaned up the spot as you can see in one photo.

So long as the tank went up with the longer hose kinking anywhere which I can’t see anything obvious then the fuel system is basically refreshed other than a couple small things to finish up.
 

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