Door striker question...

[89Suburban]

I am having an issue with my driver's door striker keeps coming loose. Has any of you ever took one of these off? It feels like there is a plate inside the pillar that it threads into but that is also moving around, but I am afriad if I take the striker out the plate/nut will fall inside the body and I will be phucked. Anybody have info on this for Burban door pillars strikers?

 

[oneluckypops]

I am not sure how they are on burbs. BUT
If your concerned of the nut plate falling drill a hole thru the door post and plug weld the nut plate to the post, then you can remove the striker and put loctite on the threads

 

[crazy4offroad]

In my truck there is a hole you can reach in at the back of the post near the floor to reach the backing plate/nut, if your burb has any plastic trim on that pillar you may have to take it off and see if they left access for it. A really strong magnet, or a self-drilling/tapping sheet metal screw might work too if there's no access to it.

 

[89Suburban]

I'll have to make sure the striker is in the right postiion before I do that, but they are a few good ideas. Maybe I should just tack the damn striker itself. I'll have to take a pic of it. Somebody put these shims on it...

 

[89Suburban]

What about the doors on these trucks? Are they fixed in a position hinge wise, or can the door hinges be adjusted at all?

 

[crazy4offroad]

I think there is some adjustment, but not very much. IIRC it's at the hinge-to-door bolt holes, instead of the hinge-to-cab holes.

 

[89Suburban]

It just seems like the bottom of the door needs to come in a little, let me go take some pics....

 

[89Suburban]

I guess the striker keeps coming loose because there is some kind of cloth/rubber type of shims under it?

 

[89Suburban]

Look how flat my friggin door weatherseal is, lol....

 

[89Suburban]

See how the top of the door seems further in than the back door and the pillar, and the bottom of the door is sticking out? Looks like it needs tilted, anybody here ever adjust this?

 

[89Suburban]

Here is some shots of the hinges where they bolt on. I don't see any way in hell to get to the bolts holding the hinges to the cab unless the door comes off, so they must adjust where they bolt to the door then?

Top hinge:

Bottom hinge:

 

[crazy4offroad]

Yeah you might be able to adjust that a little at the hinge. Adjust the top hinge at the door out about 1/4" and the bottom hinge in about 1/4". Do you have any metal-to-metal contact at the top? Like the paint is worn or anything? If not I wouldn't adjust the top hinge if you can keep from it, might make an airgap and get an annoying whistle or wind noise.

 

[89Suburban]

I'll have to check for metal to metal contact. I wonder if these new rocker panels have been the cause of the problem because the door was a little harder to close after I put them on.

 

[crazy4offroad]

More than likely. After I did mine I found out there's a lot more to putting in the rockers besides cutting the old ones out and welding the new ones in. The cab, or in your case, tub?? can lose its shape somewhat if some bracing isn't done before cutting the old ones out. I guess it really depends on how much you cut out before the tub/cab deforms. My doors haven't fit exactly right since I did mine either.

 

[HotRodPC]

I am not sure how they are on burbs. BUT
If your concerned of the nut plate falling drill a hole thru the door post and plug weld the nut plate to the post, then you can remove the striker and put loctite on the threads

That would work, or I was gonna suggest, get a couple self tapping screws and screw them into the backing plate so it can't fall. Then use a tap and clean up the threads. Use a new striker and use lock-tite on it. Then remove your 2 screws and fill in with a smidge of bondo or plug weld as pops suggested and grind smooth.