86 Chevy no start help!

[Jcoleman]

86 chevy with the 305 and manual transmission I drove it to work with no issues, come back out and I have no power to the dash, radio, and air. But u have power to the cab light, headlights and tail lights. I've changed the starter, ignition cylinder, and checked to make sure the rod in column moves with the ignition. Also have checked fuses and the fuseable link on firewall by the brake booster. Any help is appreciated since its stuck in my works parking lot and I've only had it a week, thanks!

 

[highdesertrange]

check the fuse links at the starter. highdesertranger

 

[Jcoleman]

I inspected those and they seem to be ok, I'm getting a volt meter tomorrow to check, I just find it odd that I'm only not getting power to the dash

 

[Jcoleman]

Where are the fuse links located that are common failures? I'm going to check the ones at the starter in a bit

 

[farmerchris]

if you still have the factory wiring(not hacked) off of the starter is a single wire that split into two wires at a splice.after that splice is the two fusible link on each wire, one feed the lights and related components to them.the other feed the dash and ignition components.that the one that burns out usually.these fusible links are a smaller gauge of wire that melt under excessive current.you can feel the wire and it softer and feel kind of rubbery when burnt.most of the time its hard to get as its buried in harness,wrap in the corrugated sheathing.sometimes you have to feed it out the metal tubing at the back of the motor.you can get new fusible link to splice in at the parts store

 

[Jcoleman]

Thanks, I remember when replacing the starter (troubleshooting) that it did have the one to two wires. I'll definitely check that out. So I can cut the fuse able link out and replace it with another one and I should be fine right? If that is the culprit....luckly it hasn't been to hacked on, only has 91,000 original miles.

 

[chengny]

You can skip going down under the truck and still test the fusible links and associated wiring and all the way from the solenoid to the firewall. Avoid local testing of the lower fusible links whenever possible - they can be kind of a pain to access.

The power supply for the effected components (as per your description) is carried on a red wire that originates at the starter solenoid, connects to a junction block located on the firewall.

It exits the JB, passes through another fusible link and then - after splitting into two wires (one of which goes around the back of the engine, follows along the RH valve cover and terminates at the alternator) - passes through the firewall and into the cab. From there it goes up inside the steering column and terminates at the ignition switch.




The other red wire - that is connected to the solenoid (and is the one that feeds the lighting circuits) - has only that one link down at the solenoid and does not pass through the junction block. It heads straight from the solenoid to the firewall cable gland and then passes into the cabin.

On the red wire that you are concerned with, test that power is getting through the lower fusible link - and can flow up to the JB. Just put the meter's red probe on the mounting/connecting stud and then touch the black probe to a good ground.

If you get 12VDC at the stud, that indicates that the lower link is still intact.

Next, test the fusible link that is just a few inches "downstream" from the JB. Use the point of your red probe to pierce the insulation on one of the wires after the split. It doesn't matter which one you test. They should be the same - either hot or not hot.

If you still get 12VDC after the link/split point - the next spot to check will be the ignition switch.

 

[Jcoleman]

Ok thanks I'm going to try to get my hands on a voltmeter this afternoon, I'm not good with electrical at all. You said it runs back to the alternator, no chance it could be bad causing a short? I changed the ignition cylinder, any other ways I can tell if it's the rod on the column?

 

[chengny]

chance it could be bad causing a short?

Yeah - it could happen. But your battery is remaining fully charged, right?

An internally shorted alternator would quickly kill the battery. You could disconnect the lead at the alternator (single red wire with it's connection protected by a little red boot), but that would only confuse the issue.

Try ringing this out the way I described above. It sounds complicated and time intensive, but it is easy and quick. It should only take 5 - 10 minutes to pinpoint where the loss of power is occurring. All you will need to know about your new meter is how to set it to DC volts and which jacks to plug your probes into.

 

[89Suburban]

One problem is checking for voltage is good, but it will not tell you what kind of amperage is making it through the lines. Just to throw my 2 cents in, a month or so ago when the temps first dived, I went out to the Burb after work. Started up just as fine and as strong as usual. I drove a half mile to a store. Everything was fine, gauges read fine. Lights nice and bright. I parked, shut the truck off. Got my beer. Came out, turned the key, dead as a door nail. Gauge showed 10 - 11 volts, what it usually shows. But when I tried to turn to start it, everything would go out. I checked everything, climbed in, under and around checking all wiring and connections. Everything seemed fine. Anyway here it was that the battery just took a **** right there in those few minutes. Never saw anything like it. My bro came down and gave me a jump and it fired right up. Drove home and threw in a spare battery I had and it started just fine.


Sent from the *******

 

[89Suburban]

Oh and exactly one week later at the same time and same beer store a dude in a Dodge Dakota was there there and he went through the exact same thing I did and I jumped his truck to get him home. He wouldn't believe me either but that was really freaking weird LOL. I just spent a pretty penny on 2 gauge 300 amp tractor trailer jumper cables. All those other cables from autozone and **** suck. Trust me.


Sent from the *******

 

[Jcoleman]

Yeah the battery is staying charged, I'm about to use the winch on the front to put it on the trailer. Appreciate the help...kinda aggravating buying it and 3 days later this happens, I know it's something small and simple just have to figure it out.

I'm new on here how can I post pics up in the comments?

 

[chengny]

Use the "post reply" button instead of the "quick reply". Use the "manage attachments" function.

 

[Skweegle89]

Oh and exactly one week later at the same time and same beer store a dude in a Dodge Dakota was there there and he went through the exact same thing I did and I jumped his truck to get him home. He wouldn't believe me either but that was really freaking weird LOL. I just spent a pretty penny on 2 gauge 300 amp tractor trailer jumper cables. All those other cables from autozone and **** suck. Trust me.


Sent from the *******

I built mine with aircraft cable from a Boeing shop in MO. I'm going back up there next week and will try to get my hands on some more.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jcoleman]

Ok, today I tested a few things, I couldn't get power at the fusible link on the firewall. I ran a "jumper" wire from the starter to the wire that comes off the fusible link on the firewall that splits to alternator and into cab. Power to the dash was restored and everything works. But when I turn the key to try and start the starter doesn't do anything. No click noises, did possibly running the wire like that I bypassed something for the starter to engage? I double checked to make sure the starter is wired correctly and its new