1987 R10 Lowering question

[dcfd470]

I have a 1987 Chevy truck r-10 2wd that I have restored from ground up and I now have a small problem with the lowering of the truck. The truck was all original and in very good shape when I started I just wanted to make a couple of small changes and lower it a little bit. I have been told several things and have done several of them along the way. I have the looks correct but now I have some vibrations from the fron end on different sppeds and different roadways. First off I did 4 inch drop shackels to the rear( I can't remember the make). They worked out and looked fine. I also added a rear Belltech Sway Bar and Belltech shocks to the rear. The front I was told to just cut the springs so I did. It looked great but rode like crap I could hear the springs shaking around the space for the springs. So I then was told to get drop spindles so I did. I got Mcguaghys 2.5 spindles and they went on with out too much problem. Then I put the wheels back on and the were rubbing the lower control arm. So I called and they told me that was rare and all I had to do was grind a little so I did and then I had to put .25 wheel spacers on it and that seemed to work. I was also told to use the stock springs (uncut) and I will retain my original ride. This is fine but then the front was higher than the rear. I call Mcgaughys and they told me to cut off 1 link and that would get me to where I wanted to be on the height. It is close and I am fine with the look that I wanted. I took it to a shop to get it alligned because with all the messing around I did it was way out. He took care of it it is perfecty alligned now. I then took it for a ride and that is whe I noticed a small vibration possibly from the fron end( I didn't go too far or fast). I then swiched the wheels around to see if I had any changes and I didn't I also had the wheels balanced when I got it alligned. I then thought it could be bearings so I replaced bearings rotors and pads most everything now. When I restored the truck I replaced ball joints and tie rod ends. I drove the truck today about 80 miles and that is where I am at now with the vibrations and I think I can hear something rattling sometimes maybe the springs? I also replaced the front shocks and sway bar with Belltech stuff. When I was replacing bearings with the truck jackked up the springs seemed to be somewhat tight but they would move a little if you hit them. My wheels are stock rally 15 inch all around.

If I put full size springs in it will my ride improve if so I guess I could raise the rear on the shackel so the truck would have a rake to it or at least be even. What do you think?

Thanks
Bill

 

[smoothandlow84]

First off, I am not a fan of cutting coils. Too much can be removed and you can also end up with an uneven front end. The proper way is to get the right drop springs with tye right spring rate. When lowering with springs the proper spring rate (the larger the motor ex: small block versus big block) and its weight will require different spring rates. You mentioned that you have drop spindles along with the 15" rally wheels and they rubbed the lower a -arm. I had the same scenario with my square. I ditched the 15" wheels and went with 20" x 8 up front and 20x10 out back. I currently have a drop in the front which is by using 2" drop spindles, and 3" drop coils....so 5" total. Out back I removed the overload spring, flipped the axle, installed a c notch and have 2" lowering shackles.....all together...7" . I don't have any wobble or vibration at any speeds. Its possible that you may have bad or worn a arm bushings. If yiu have the rubber ones, upgrade to polyurethane as they hold up better. You may also want to check your pittman arm and steering shaft. When I acquired my square, the steering shaft wasnt completely engaged up at where it inserts into the joint close to the firewall. Theres a small clip that needs to be set in place after the shaft is completely inserted. I had to use a rubber mallet to get it fully inserted. Another item on the check list would be to make sure that your inner wheel weights if applicable aren't missing. If as you said the a arms were rubbing, the weights may have been bumped off. Have you verified that the front shocks and the bushings on them are intact? Do you have gas charged or oil filled shocks? I currently have oil filled shocks that the p.o. installed, but I will be upgrading to gas charged soon. Check for any seperation in your tires too, sometimes even the smallest start will cause a wobble.

Even with the drop that I have, the ride is super plush and smooth. Theres no reason other than worn parts that you should have any wobble. The front ends of these older tucks have a lot of wear items which effect the ride. Bushings, ball joints, and bearings all should be checked, especially since it has been lowered.

 

[dcfd470]

Hi thanks for the reply I am going over the list that you gave me. The control arm bushings are older and may need replacing which I am going to do but today I drove it home from work and I payed more attention to the vibrations. It seems to start at any time and after I hit a small bump in the road but not always. Sometimes it comes at 55 and get worse the faster you go and sometimes it goes away the faster you go. I am still thinking it has to do with the springs like once they get shaking they have to slow down or stop before the vibration goes away. When I cut them that is all I did I saw on the tube that you should have to slightly heat up one end to bend it to make it flat(like the original ones) because they don't sit flat in the chamber. I am thinking about just buying new springs with a 2 or 3 inch drop with my 2.5 spindles. You said about the flip in the rear I already have the drop shackles and hangars and I am good with the height on it. Is one better than the other? I have Belltech 9952 shocks all new and they are in new condition. The tires are newer Michellin LTX MS this is why I still have the original wheels they are new 800$ tires maybe later down the road I would put different wheels and tires on it.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[smoothandlow84]

Just doing the rear axle flip lowers it 3 - 4 inches. I also removed the overload to soften the ride. If you install drop shackles, you may also have to notch the bed support rails just above the upper sweep of the shackles. I had to notch mine for clearance at full compression. Sounds like you are on the right track with the front end. I'm guessing that it is due to the springs being cut and not seated correctly. The bushings being replaced will help tremendously as they keep the a arms from wobbling out of alignment. A trick I learned with replacing bushings is to heat up the rubber bushings with a propane torch and chiseling them out with either a punch or a large flat bladed screwdriver.

 

[dcfd470]

Thanks for the help I put 3 inch lowering spring on the front with the 2.5 spindles and that was way to low. I took the springs that I cut and I heated up and bent the bottom of the spring to make it sit better and I think this worked it looks good and rides ok. I am going to change out the bushings next.

Thanks for your help
Bill

 

[smoothandlow84]

Glad to help. Sometimes if you overheat the springs, it can change the spring rate causing them to rebound unevenly. The spring rate will lessen with too much heat applied.

 

[dcfd470]

I still may put new uncut springs on next 1-2 inches only.

Thanks
Bill

 

[smoothandlow84]

Sounds like a better plan than cutting and torching the oems. I would do that too if there was no other option. Progressive rate drop coils work best. Any thought on upgrading the sway bar and bushing to polyurethane? I am very happy with mine and they last a lot longer than the oem rubber units. They also stiffen up the front end as well, especially the front sway bar bushings. Next on my to do list is to replace the cab mount bushings with poly as well ( when its not 112 degrees outside).